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t-maxx breaks drive shafts, left and right (literally)

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thetmaxx

RC Newbie
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West Sacramento
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Hey, I have an old .15 t-maxx, and rebuilt the motor, now that it's dialed in and running strong, it's breaking the rear drive hafts. I'm sure the spool has nothing to do with it. :whistle:

Anyways, I see they make steel CVD shafts for these trucks. All I want are the two for the rear, if the rest are plastic I don't think it will break them as they have never has a problem, but my problem is where to find a set, who makes them, and which ones you guys recommend. I looked on towwer hobbies, but this kit doesn't seem to have the necessary end pieces or am i incorrect? http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXUR79&P=ML

Also where can i find RRP's? and on ebay they are selling RDLogistics that look pretty good, but i don't know where else to find them to see if i can get the shorter ones?

I found short steel u-joint style like the stockers on ebay, but he wanted $100. I'm hoping to keep the two axles under $40

My theory is it will be completely steel all through the rear axle, and there should be nothing to break from the binding of the spool. also Just as a note, I think the spool is bad @$$ this thing never climbed so well!
 
I haven't messed with a T-Maxx for while, but from what I remember you're right, it doesn't show the drive yokes in the picture.

Your price may be hard to keep, just remember when you beef up the rear axles, there will be extra stresses moved to other parts.

BTW, I like having a spool in the rear too.
 
Well I ran the xtm cvds all the way around for years and never once had any problems . Even the dynamite cvd set is pretty good .
 
traxxas makes the spool. should be readily available at your LHS or online.

I think i caught a glimpse of the dynamite set, looked pretty good!
 
I checked out the link and if you read down below it says it includes the axel shafts it just appears they left them out of the picture, now you say you have the old T Maxx? my question to you is it the narrow version? because if it is then I think your looking at the right ones on Tower. and that price for MIP cvd's is actuly pretty good,but if you do replace your stock drive shafts with cvd's you will start tiwsting your center drive shafts, at least thats what happen to me on my E Maxx, and it will keep finding the weakest link, I have MIP cvd's through out my whole E Maxx with spools front and rear and and like you said this thing will go just about any where, but now i have to replace all my tranny gears with aluminum ones because I keep blowing up my plastic idler gears...Oh and here is a link for a spool...http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXSP76&P=M
 
well, if you have spool in front AND back thats probably why your breaking your center shafts, your putting the center shafts in a bind. with only the rear spooled the centers don't get in a bind, only the rear half shafts.

But the .15 doesn't have torque like the e-maxx and I was just checking all my other shaft, all original to the truck (8years) and none of them show the slightest bit of wear like the rear develops in just a few tanks.

I found the MIP on another site and the image cnfirms the output and input, but i noticed there are no boots? It comes with grease for the joint, but that will just fill up in 5 seconds with dust if there are no boots!? I'm going to research this more, anyone know how this works?
 
Well, I did research, and settled on the dynamite CVD's, mainly because they have boots, I feel they will last longer, and some said larger engine will break them, but I don't think I'll have a problem... Can't wait for them to arrive!!
 
Even with the boots, they will still allow quite a bit of dust and grime in there. Just wanted to let you know that all the ones with boots on them that I've seen in person, I wouldn't count on those boots keeping the grease clean.
 
the center shaft will twist all you are doing is moving the weak spot
 
the center shaft will twist all you are doing is moving the weak spot
That was kind of the point I was trying to make thanks for helping out, at this piont your rear shafts are the weakest link, next it will probly be the rear center shaft, the fronts don't tend to be as problematic but I figured I might as well do them all, now I have aluminum tranny gears coming for the E Maxx, also I have run nothing but MIP cvd's with very good results, and you don't actully need a bunch of the lube on them and the only problem I have ever had with them was when I bought some used center shafts off of ebay and the person that had them before me used super glue insted of loc tite, a $5.00 rebuild kit later and I was in bussiness, they were just like new, hope the dynomites work out for you, I've never used them so I can't say if they are good or bad....
 
i will defiantly post my results with them, ANd try to come back with update of how my other drive lines hold up, as well as the dynamites. I'll even see if I can figure out how to post a picture for you guys. Then you can admire my hooptie t-maxx, lol
 
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