Slimline Fuel Tank

[olds97_lss]

Has anyone used the Slimline Aluminum fuel tank for their T? I'm on plastic tank #7 with #8 in the wait to repair bin. I keep getting the legs snapped.

I do get quite a bit of air (10 - 15 feet high, 20-30 feet distance) but from reading other posts, i'm not the only one ramping to the moon.

Curious to know if anyone else has run into the same problems and if so, what did you do to fix it?

Regardless what you guys come up with, i just bought the Slimline off of Tower for $50. Needed stuff and threw it in. It may make the wife angry (considering she spent $200 on my maxx for christmas that i don't know about), but i'm damn tired of replacing these tanks.

I've put fuel line stand offs over the screw posts on the tanks. This seems to help the life of the tank to at least make it through a weekend or two.

More or less seeing if I made an unwise purchase.

T-Maxx Specs:
XTM 21 conversion
XTM cvd's
O.S. 21 RG-X(P)
Duratrax full bearing set
ACNCM bulkheads (f/r)
RPM arms (f only)
RPM shock towers (f/r)
Homade 3/8" steel center to rear skid plate
Integy diff cases and collars
Maximizer diff cups w/mod gear
NewEra 3-Point roll bar (life saver)
IMEX swamp dawg tires
One really sad looking body
Hitech high torque steel gear servo's
Traxxas FOC
JR xr2 radio

 

[SuperMaxx97]

hey if u land right it might not break the tank!!!!:thumbup: j/k i get air like u do and i have only broken my tank once. and i have had my rig for 4 years.

i have heard that the slimeline tank is good. they only thing keepin is that u can't see how much gas is left in the tank

bryan

 

[HumboldtBlazer]

try this

cut the outer front leg half off. Use a washer and a servo rubber piece on each remaining leg. I have yet to break this tank, there were 6-7 before it and this one has lasted 4 months.

Originally posted by SuperMaxx97
hey if u land right it might not break the tank!!!!:thumbup: j/k i get air like u do and i have only broken my tank once. and i have had my rig for 4 years.

i have heard that the slimeline tank is good. they only thing keepin is that u can't see how much gas is left in the tank

bryan

actually it does break from landing right. It is just the big impacts the crush the leg into the tank and make it crack.

 

[olds97_lss]

Do you really think that if i was landing on my roof all the time or nose diving that i would actually post a message asking about how to not break something? If so, you are mistaken. Granted, i don't land on my wheels all the time, but i have a 80% good landing rate.

I have put the rubber standoffs. As i had said before, this prolongs the life of the tank, but it still cracks every other weekend.

Although, i haven't tried the 3 leg approach... what made you do that?

Oh yeah, thanks for the input.

Thanks for the benifit of the doubt humbolt.

I've only broken the tank once due to landing on the roof and that was before the new era 3 point roll bar. Now it's more a sudden shock breakage that occurs.

 

[StrechM]

I have not considered the stailess tank because of no veiwable fuel level. What replacing with a buggy tank:

http://wildhobbies.com/news/generalsilicones/storm/pipe.jpg

2 very flexible mounts instead of the 4 rigid ones or something like this:

http://www.dynamiterc.com/Products/Detail.aspx?ProductID=DYN7633B

 

[olds97_lss]

Thanks, but i don't think a shield will help. I'm not getting any imacts on the tank itself. From what i can tell, it's just the inertia of the fuel sloshing around in the tank on hard landings.

Thanks though.

You can tell when it's running low. It leans out a bit and you can hear a different tone from the engine. From that point, i have about 1 min before she's out. I think it's partly from the shape and size of the tank.

 

[GilBeQuick]

I used to crack tanks just like you. What I did was get a full cage. The weight of the aluminum fuel tank is almost identical to the weight of my cage, and the cage protects everything. I found mine off of E-Bay, brand new for $39! I run my T like it's stolen, and haven't broken aother tank or put another scratch on my head in 2 months now.
Also with the cage I don't run a body anymore, so it stays cooler when it's hot outside and makes it easier to get at carb screws to tune.

 

[HumboldtBlazer]

Although, i haven't tried the 3 leg approach... what made you do that?

. [/B]

Cutting half of that fron leg off is what makes it so it doesn't crack, or at least that is what I am experienceing. That leg is the one that always seems to take the impact and crack the tank. Try it believe me you will like it!

 

[olds97_lss]

Well, my aluminum tank just came in. Looks pretty solid but combined with my XTM 21 conversion and my OS 21RG, it rubs on the engine. Actually on the pull start mechanism.

So out came the drill and 4 new holes 1/2" over. Now it fits. Although, it looks like the cap on the tank will probably rub on the ground on a roll over. The cap is pretty thick though. It will take allot of grinding before it springs a leak. I just hope it doesn't crack the tank on the mounting pegs.

Guess we will see. Sunday will tell. If it doesn't rain all day.

 

[HumboldtBlazer]

Good luck with your mission on the tank. I for one would have a huge problem with not being able to see the fuel level. Let us know how that tanks works out for ya.

 

[olds97_lss]

After having an epiphany i realized that if i mounted the tank backwards in the original holes, there would be enough clearance between the side of the tank and the engine. About 1/4" actually. By doing this, it also moved the filler cap on the tank close to the engine and forward. Now it won't drag on the ground in a rollover. Although, i do have 4 extra holes in the chassis now.

Hindsight is a wonderful thing. I suppose i can pass off the extra holes as a mediocre attempt at lightening the chassis...