Slash 4x4 over heated after long hard drive down the driveway, again ?

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Should I fix and sell my Slash 4x4? If I do, what should replace it with?

  • Yes

    Votes: 0 0.0%
  • Arrma Infraction (I like drifting)

    Votes: 0 0.0%
  • Arrma Limitless

    Votes: 0 0.0%
  • They're all good options, I can't choose!

    Votes: 0 0.0%

  • Total voters
    4
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The RC Car

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  1. Bashing
Hey y'all! I took the slash out for a drive two days ago and it overheated after about 10 minutes, the temperature was in the 60s (Fahrenheit). I thought this was weird, but set it too cool down (it has an ESC fan btw), and after 30 minutes it still hadn't cooled down. I unplugged the batt and went home, I checked my batts (lipo 2s) to make sure they weren't the cause, and they were good, all the cells were balanced. Next, I went straight to the receiver box. I made sure that all excess wire was outside of the receiver box. I took the car out, drove it down the driveway, and the ESC promptly overheated. I wondered if the pinion gear might be too close to the spur gear somehow be creating an insane amount of drag. Nope. Is my motor "cogged" for the second time this year? If y'all have any idea what it might be let me know, please. I'm a basher btw. Really considering selling my Slash (it would be a tough parting, I love that thing!) and just getting and Arrma or a drone.
 
Excess wire in the receiver box isn't going to cause your ESC to overheat unless you stuck your ESC in there. You didn't do that did you? Your ESC needs to be out in the open for air flow for cooling. If your ESC is outside the RX box, and you're still having issues, it's likely over-geared. Is your driveway level, or on a slope? Paved, dirt, gravel? Is there any binding in the transmission or any of the driveline anywhere? The only way to truly prevent overheating is to get an infrared temperature gun, and use that to set your gearing according to motor temps. With electrics, always gear down and amp up for more speed.
 
Thanks. Okay. Yeah, my batts are lipo 2s, with a 40c output so they should be good. They are always balance charged btw.

That doesn't mean anything without some more info. First, and most important, how many mAh are they? Who makes them? What's the IR reading on them currently? Have they ever been over-charged or over-discharged? Also, exactly which model of Slash (2WD or 4WD), and which motor and ESC are your running in it?

Floureon 7.4V 6200mAh 2S 40C with TRX connector, got it done by a professional.

VXL-3s ESC

Venileon 3500 Brushless

4x4

I got the TSM and OBA version

I took it out again, this time in the backyard, which is flat, and it overheated again.

I use the Venom Dual 2s Lipo/LiFe Charger btw
 
Last edited by a moderator:
Here you go, $20

https://www.amazon.com/Kizen-LP300-Thermometer-Non-Contact-Temperature/dp/B07VSHR9M6/ref=sr_1_3?crid=DKQW8LCSKF0Q&keywords=temperature+gun&qid=1582604614&sprefix=teperature+,aps,176&sr=8-3

Should you need to re-gear (very possible based on what you've said) you need different pinion gears, and possibly a different spur gear. Run the truck like you're going to drive it, and check the temps of the motor and ESC every 1-2 minutes. Re-gear as necessary to get the temps below 160F on the motor and 140F on the ESC. Make sure you are using batteries capable of delivering the amperage needed also. Cheaper packs or old packs with high impedance/IR can add to heat issues.
 
I have a idea. I think that your motor moved and the gear mesh was to tight.. How long have you had this rc?. how old are batteries?.what are the gears now? as in pinion and spur?.

Id check the gear mesh and id even replace the motor mount screws.
 
Sounds like gear mesh to me as well..
 
I have a idea. I think that your motor moved and the gear mesh was to tight.. How long have you had this rc?. how old are batteries?.what are the gears now? as in pinion and spur?.

Id check the gear mesh and id even replace the motor mount screws.
I made it looser earlier yesterday and it still overheated though.
 
I have a idea. I think that your motor moved and the gear mesh was to tight.. How long have you had this rc?. how old are batteries?.what are the gears now? as in pinion and spur?.

Id check the gear mesh and id even replace the motor mount screws.
I've had it for about a year. Spur is 15t and pinion is 54t. Batts are about 6 months old.
 
Here you go, $20

https://www.amazon.com/Kizen-LP300-Thermometer-Non-Contact-Temperature/dp/B07VSHR9M6/ref=sr_1_3?crid=DKQW8LCSKF0Q&keywords=temperature+gun&qid=1582604614&sprefix=teperature+,aps,176&sr=8-3

Should you need to re-gear (very possible based on what you've said) you need different pinion gears, and possibly a different spur gear. Run the truck like you're going to drive it, and check the temps of the motor and ESC every 1-2 minutes. Re-gear as necessary to get the temps below 160F on the motor and 140F on the ESC. Make sure you are using batteries capable of delivering the amperage needed also. Cheaper packs or old packs with high impedance/IR can add to heat issues.
Thanks. Okay. Yeah, my batts are lipo 2s, with a 40c output so they should be good. They are always balance charged btw.
 
Floureon 7.4V 6200mAh 2S 40C with TRX connector, got it done by a professional.

VXL-3s ESC

Venileon 3500 Brushless

4x4

I got the TSM and OBA version

I took it out again, this time in the backyard, which is flat, and it overheated again.

I use the Venom Dual 2s Lipo/LiFe Charger btw

Fixed all of that. No need for all the separate replies, just put them all in one post please, it makes our job trying to help you much easier. Also, please use the reply button so it quotes what you are replying to in order to further assist us.

Those batteries should be fine. I'm still guessing you are just over-geared. But a temp gun and a few pinons and spurs will tell the tale for sure.
 
which component(s) is overheating? just the esc? or esc and motor both?

just something to check:
as far as setting mesh, what is your process? and you are checking after you tighten both screws down correct?
if you are using the paper method, i have found it to be kind of a frustrating way to do it as especially with plastic motor mounts, the plastic "dimples" where it was tightened before, so if for some reason the actual mesh changes, and you need to move the motor slightly away or slightly closer, the motor tries going back into the dimples causing it to be again too tight, or again too loose.
this for me is frustrating with the paper method as it will compress the paper enough to make the mesh too tight still.
just something to double check^

just curious, could it be the bearings starting to go in the motor causing binding?
on that same track of mind, what about some oil on the motor bearings?
these brushless motors are pretty much maintenance free, but bearings still can fail and bearings still need some sort of lubrication.
before doing the above though have someone else chime in and confirm., its something i do, but that doesn't mean its right lol.
 
which component(s) is overheating? just the esc? or esc and motor both?

just something to check:
as far as setting mesh, what is your process? and you are checking after you tighten both screws down correct?
if you are using the paper method, i have found it to be kind of a frustrating way to do it as especially with plastic motor mounts, the plastic "dimples" where it was tightened before, so if for some reason the actual mesh changes, and you need to move the motor slightly away or slightly closer, the motor tries going back into the dimples causing it to be again too tight, or again too loose.
this for me is frustrating with the paper method as it will compress the paper enough to make the mesh too tight still.
just something to double check^

just curious, could it be the bearings starting to go in the motor causing binding?
on that same track of mind, what about some oil on the motor bearings?
these brushless motors are pretty much maintenance free, but bearings still can fail and bearings still need some sort of lubrication.
before doing the above though have someone else chime in and confirm., its something i do, but that doesn't mean its right lol.
Nothings feels hot, the ESC just says it is.
 
I tested it again and this time the steering died, after looking into it, it looks like the steering servo is the culprit I''m going to look at it again later and see if the gears are giving out or if there's gunk in there.
 
If your steering servo was binding or on the way out it could cause it to draw more current than needed and overheat the ESC. It's unlikely, but possible.
Okay, but could it really do it so fast that I can't drive it ten feet down the driveway?
 
Yes, that's usually what happens with a current overload. It's not a gradual thing, it's a THIS IS HAPPENING RIGHT NOW thing. LOL
lol, surprised, usually they let out the magical smoke when it happens too, got lucky.
 
K y'all, I think I found the problem. The ball bearings in the servo were both broken. Would this actually cause overheating?
 
Check if it rolls freely
Check that ALL bearings spin freely
 
Check if it rolls freely
Check that ALL bearings spin freely
Yup, checked that. The bearings in the servo were the only bearings that weren't smooth.
 
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