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Who Replied?nitromaniac
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Originally posted by NooP
I have a feeling my os cv .15 is dead.
--NooP
Cmon! Be more specific! There are lots of reasons for dead engines, what is your engine doing or not doing to make you think its dead?
Example: My engine is not running, is it dead or should I try and start it? Doh!:hypno:
NooP
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my bad, here you go.
OS CV .15
I got it used from a friend who had it sitting for more than a year or so. He said it used to run great.
Runs great except for when I hit full throttle for more than a split secound. If I stay with quick pegs at full throttle its ok. But when I peg it out, it dies. SOmetimes dies on accel, decel, or after a complete stop. I can pretty much let it idle for the full tank if I want to. If I cruise around, runs great. Only after a full throttle pass it seems to die. Sometimes I can peg it out, then repeatedly snap the throttle several times and it will limp its way back to life.
I've tried tuning it way rich to way lean and it does the same thing. I even went and got a nice snap-on laser gun to check the temps.
I have 2 other cars. An OFna GTLX PRO with FOrce P4 .21 engine and a Traxxas 4-tec that has a .15 in it. I was able to tune those perfectly in less than an hour. Both run great. Its just my sleezy os cv .15 that give me head aches.
--NooP
OS CV .15
I got it used from a friend who had it sitting for more than a year or so. He said it used to run great.
Runs great except for when I hit full throttle for more than a split secound. If I stay with quick pegs at full throttle its ok. But when I peg it out, it dies. SOmetimes dies on accel, decel, or after a complete stop. I can pretty much let it idle for the full tank if I want to. If I cruise around, runs great. Only after a full throttle pass it seems to die. Sometimes I can peg it out, then repeatedly snap the throttle several times and it will limp its way back to life.
I've tried tuning it way rich to way lean and it does the same thing. I even went and got a nice snap-on laser gun to check the temps.
I have 2 other cars. An OFna GTLX PRO with FOrce P4 .21 engine and a Traxxas 4-tec that has a .15 in it. I was able to tune those perfectly in less than an hour. Both run great. Its just my sleezy os cv .15 that give me head aches.
--NooP
NooP
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I am running a new os A5 glow plug, and I have a whole bunch of other ones that I am unsure of the brand.
As far as an air leak, I have silicone on the carb neck and new fuel lines that are zip tied on all ends(except on the carb, now that I think about it) I just recently took the engine apart, cleaned it, and put it back together.
Does it sound like a dead engine at all? Or does it more sound like I have something wrong in there?
--NooP
As far as an air leak, I have silicone on the carb neck and new fuel lines that are zip tied on all ends(except on the carb, now that I think about it) I just recently took the engine apart, cleaned it, and put it back together.
Does it sound like a dead engine at all? Or does it more sound like I have something wrong in there?
--NooP
nitromaniac
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If the engine didnt start , no matter what you did, Thats a DEAD engine! But since it does fire, its alive with some problems!
I used to have that same engine and ran OS8's with no problems, you could try that. Since the engine sat for a year and you took it apart and cleaned it, did you notice how the piston and sleeve looked when you did that?, do you know any more history of that engine? like how much fuel was run through it b4 you got it? what type of fuel are you running in it now? go back and try a thorough check on anything that could be causing a leak, Header, pipe, carb seal, etc... It could be the smallest thing,easy to over look! Its those small little things that you find out that always piss ya off the most! but I wouldnt give up on it if its firing! its a pretty decent mill! good luck! Let us know!
I used to have that same engine and ran OS8's with no problems, you could try that. Since the engine sat for a year and you took it apart and cleaned it, did you notice how the piston and sleeve looked when you did that?, do you know any more history of that engine? like how much fuel was run through it b4 you got it? what type of fuel are you running in it now? go back and try a thorough check on anything that could be causing a leak, Header, pipe, carb seal, etc... It could be the smallest thing,easy to over look! Its those small little things that you find out that always piss ya off the most! but I wouldnt give up on it if its firing! its a pretty decent mill! good luck! Let us know!
NooP
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thanks maniac, I just spoke to my friend and he ran 20% bashing around and 30% on occasion when he raced with his friends. Hes unsure of how many gallons he ran through, but he said probably around 5-6. I do not really know what to look for when I look at the piston/sleeve. Everything looked fine and squared away to me. I ordered a new gasket kit and when it arrives, I will pull it apart and look through it more thoroughly.
Can anyone suggest what to look for or what to do when I take it apart and put it back together?
--NooP
Can anyone suggest what to look for or what to do when I take it apart and put it back together?
--NooP
Nitroaddict
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5 - 6 gallons is alot for an engine without a rebuild. You can check to see if it is toast by a simple proceedure.
remove the head and backplate. remove the piston and sleeve.
push the piston through the sleeve. attempt to push it all the way through. if u can manually push the piston through the sleeve - the engine is dead and needs to be rebuilt. If it goes almost all the way to the top (1 - 2mm to top) of the sleeve, then it is very worn, and should be replaced. if it stops about 2- 5mm before hitting the top of the sleeve, and u cannot push it any further, than the engine is okay, and the problem lies elsewhere.
remove the head and backplate. remove the piston and sleeve.
push the piston through the sleeve. attempt to push it all the way through. if u can manually push the piston through the sleeve - the engine is dead and needs to be rebuilt. If it goes almost all the way to the top (1 - 2mm to top) of the sleeve, then it is very worn, and should be replaced. if it stops about 2- 5mm before hitting the top of the sleeve, and u cannot push it any further, than the engine is okay, and the problem lies elsewhere.
NooP
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DOH! I remeber being able to push the piston all the way through the top. I will check tonight. piston and sleeve combo for this engine is $50, kinda expensive if you ask me when the whole engine goes for about 70-80 if i remeber right.
--NooP
--NooP
StaticSag
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Had a similar deal not too long ago .....this week....lol.....same motor.....come to find out my air leak was the flywheel side bearing.....found it by letting the engine idle and sprinkling a fine mist of baby powder around the bottom of the engine using a baby medicine dropper so it didnt get into the carb.....the vacuum from the engine sucked the powder right to the air leak.....replaced the bearing and away I go....
-Sag
-Sag
NooP
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push the piston through the sleeve. attempt to push it all the way through. if u can manually push the piston through the sleeve - the engine is dead and needs to be rebuilt. If it goes almost all the way to the top (1 - 2mm to top) of the sleeve, then it is very worn, and should be replaced. if it stops about 2- 5mm before hitting the top of the sleeve, and u cannot push it any further, than the engine is okay, and the problem lies elsewhere.
With that being said, how does the engine ever turn over if the piston wont reach the top of the cylinder? Should it just get harder as it gets to the top? If so, can't I just take the glow plug out and turn it manually by the flywheel?
--NooP
newnitrofan
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Honestly it sounds like that engine has seen it's full life. I mean if that guy ran honestly 5-6 gallons through it and you were able to push the piston through the sleeve it's time for a new piston and sleeve I think. Now if you are really unsure of things than you might start poking around the carb and seeing if the HSN is leaking some how at all.
NooP
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I just took the engine completely apart just now, and the piston does not go completely through the sleeve. It gets tighter as it goes up, but when I force it with my hand, it stops just about 2mm from the top.
The other thing I did notice is that the front bearing seems to be leaking again. I am not sure how much is exessive, but it is leaking a tiny bit.
So I'm going to assume that a slightly leaky bearing and a severly worn piston/sleeve is whats going on here. I really dont want to spend any money on this engine. I think I'm just going to trim my radio down so it doesn't hit full throttle and put the money aside to get the orion wasp .18 small block engine.
Thanks for all the help
--NooP
The other thing I did notice is that the front bearing seems to be leaking again. I am not sure how much is exessive, but it is leaking a tiny bit.
So I'm going to assume that a slightly leaky bearing and a severly worn piston/sleeve is whats going on here. I really dont want to spend any money on this engine. I think I'm just going to trim my radio down so it doesn't hit full throttle and put the money aside to get the orion wasp .18 small block engine.
Thanks for all the help
--NooP
