Servo twitching when breaking

[hubs.rc]

I got gifted a 2008 Kyosho Inferno GT2 and I got new glowplugs,igniter and also fuel. With a little bit of tuning the car works great until I got a new remote. I got the Spekteum SLT300 Remote. I took out the old receiver and installed the new one and every cable is connected correctly (meaning positives and negatives are in the correct spot) and I turned on the remote first and then the receiver and I noticed when I was holding the break on the remote that the servo was twitching back and forth. It wasn’t twitching a huge gap but when I would push the car it would stop move a little bit and then stop again. Before I installed the new remove the original remote didn’t have the same problem. Anything suggestion would be appreciated!

 

[tntpoof]

your last 2 sentences tell you what? go back to old remote and loose that piece of bull speculum..I lost all faih in that brand in like 2008 when my 1st module died 5 minutes after i plugged it into my ex10 .and they would not stand behind there product.. then i took a leap with the dx3rpro and many functions did not work.pure junk in my view.

 

[hubs.rc]

your last 2 sentences tell you what? go back to old remote and loose that piece of bull speculum..I lost all faih in that brand in like 2008nwhn my 1st module died 5 minutes after i plugged it into my ex10 .and they would not stand behind there product.. then i took a leap with the dx3rpro and many functions did not work.pure junk in my view.

Problem with the old remote was that the range was really small (around 20 feet) and the new remote has a range of 2 miles. Also the old remote was a little bit weird because some of the stuff would twitch because it has a like chip in it that’s also in the receiver so it’s not like the new 2.4gz remote

 

[tntpoof]

go with flysky

 

[hubs.rc]

go with flysky

Is there a model you would suggest?

 

[cbaker65]

Not sure ,but if the end points is not adjusted on the new transmitter ,it will cause twitching in the servo
because the transmitter is telling the servo to move more ,but the servo can't ,so it is twitching!
The travel or end point needs to be adjusted on the transmitter ,if it doesn't have it ,then you might
need to relieve the tension on the brake rod!..

 

[hubs.rc]

Not sure ,but if the end points is not adjusted on the new transmitter ,it will cause twitching in the servo
because the transmitter is telling the servo to move more ,but the servo can't ,so it is twitching!
The travel or end point needs to be adjusted on the transmitter ,if it doesn't have it ,then you might
need to relieve the tension on the brake rod!..

Thank you! I’ll definitely try that

 

[cbaker65]

Here is something that explains what I am talking about ,even though it isn't a brake & throttle
servo ,it is still the same concept if this might be your issue!..

 

[hubs.rc]

Not sure ,but if the end points is not adjusted on the new transmitter ,it will cause twitching in the servo
because the transmitter is telling the servo to move more ,but the servo can't ,so it is twitching!
The travel or end point needs to be adjusted on the transmitter ,if it doesn't have it ,then you might
need to relieve the tension on the brake rod!..

Do you have a video that you can send me on how to release the tension on the breaking rod?

 

[cbaker65]

Do you have a video that you can send me on how to release the tension on the breaking rod?

No I don't ,but most rod linkage is suppose to have little tiny springs on them ,that is what they are
for ,so you can relieve un need tension on the servo!..

 

[hubs.rc]

No I don't ,but most rod linkage is suppose to have little tiny springs on them ,that is what they are
for ,so you can relieve un need tension on the servo!..

Ah I see now but how would I adjust them…? I don’t see a way how to adjust them

 

[cbaker65]

Ah I see now but how would I adjust them…? I don’t see a way how to adjust them

Each model varies on the linkage set up ,but they should have some kind of adjustment!
Here ,I found another vid!

You see ,throttle & brake work off the same servo ,so if you are braking ,the throttle rod is jamming the throttle
closed ,when that happens ,it could be putting too much pressure on the servo ,that is where the little springs
come in at ,they relieve the pressure off the servo ,when too much is on the servo ,they will hum ,buzz or even
twitch an eventually burn the servo up!

 

[The_RC_Dude]

I got gifted a 2008 Kyosho Inferno GT2 and I got new glowplugs,igniter and also fuel. With a little bit of tuning the car works great until I got a new remote. I got the Spekteum SLT300 Remote. I took out the old receiver and installed the new one and every cable is connected correctly (meaning positives and negatives are in the correct spot) and I turned on the remote first and then the receiver and I noticed when I was holding the break on the remote that the servo was twitching back and forth. It wasn’t twitching a huge gap but when I would push the car it would stop move a little bit and then stop again. Before I installed the new remove the original remote didn’t have the same problem. Anything suggestion would be appreciated!

Ok, so you've connected everything properly (I take it you also made sure to plug everything into the right channels), turned the radio on first, then the receiver, ect. try doing the same test somewhere else, there may have been radio interference from another appliance, unlikely, especially with the 2.4ghz stuff, but worth a shot. Also, try it with a fully charged battery, the pack you were using may have been low, and the receiver was operating on a low voltage, so it couldn't supply enough power to the servo to keep it fully locked on the disk rotor.

Also, try re-binding the RX/TX, that'd might have been the issue, and calibrate the servo or something. Usually, you calibrate the ESC, but since that's a nitro, it doesn't have an ESC, so...I don't know if you can calibrate a servo, I think some high-end servos can do that.

But also, set the servo end points, start by taking off the throttle/brake servo horn (just unscrew and take off the horn, no need to take the horn out of the entire car, then the turn the RX on, then the TX, don't touch the brake or steering. Go to your throttle/brake servo's trim, and set the trim to 0%, dead center, so the servo isn't biased to either side. Set the steering dual rate to 100% for now.

Now you're gonna put the servo horn back onto the the servo, but try to put it on as straight up as you can, perpendicular to one of the servo case's long sides, on some cars, depending on how the steering/throttle/brake linkage is designed, you want the horn at a slight angle, but on most cars you want it perpendicular to the servo housing, or chassis, if your servo sits flat on it's long side on the chassis. The car and radio should be on during this step BTW. Then reattach any linkages and rods you took off to take the servo horn off, trim the servo, then set the dual rate/endpoints (basically, you don't want to servo to be straining to push or pull the linkage when the linkage is maxed out, only have the servo push/pull till right before the linkage bottoms out, @cbaker65 posted a video about setting EPA above, by Amain Hobbies).

This video shows what I mean, plus he's using the same radio as you!

Oh, and make sure your servo is in good condition, and not worn out or stripped. Sorry for the long-winded reply!

Edit: And welcome to the forum! If you haven't, feel free to check out my RCT Member Location Map Thread (shameless plug )!

 

[hubs.rc]

Each model varies on the linkage set up ,but they should have some kind of adjustment!
Here ,I found another vid!

You see ,throttle & brake work off the same servo ,so if you are braking ,the throttle rod is jamming the throttle
closed ,when that happens ,it could be putting too much pressure on the servo ,that is where the little springs
come in at ,they relieve the pressure off the servo ,when too much is on the servo ,they will hum ,buzz or even
twitch an eventually burn the servo up!

I’ve tried to loosen the throttle rod and it’s not moving more like stuck there. I'm not sure what to do because I don’t want to force it which could break it. Gotta tell ya rc cars can be fun but also a pain in the ass

 

[cbaker65]

I’ve tried to loosen the throttle rod and it’s not moving more like stuck there. I'm not sure what to do because I don’t want to force it which could break it. Gotta tell ya rc cars can be fun but also a pain in the ass

What happens when you only apply a little brake an not full brake trigger ,does it still twitch?..

 

[hubs.rc]

Ok, so you've connected everything properly (I take it you also made sure to plug everything into the right channels), turned the radio on first, then the receiver, ect. try doing the same test somewhere else, there may have been radio interference from another appliance, unlikely, especially with the 2.4ghz stuff, but worth a shot. Also, try it with a fully charged battery, the pack you were using may have been low, and the receiver was operating on a low voltage, so it couldn't supply enough power to the servo to keep it fully locked on the disk rotor.

Also, try re-binding the RX/TX, that'd might have been the issue, and calibrate the servo or something. Usually, you calibrate the ESC, but since that's a nitro, it doesn't have an ESC, so...I don't know if you can calibrate a servo, I think some high-end servos can do that.

But also, set the servo end points, start by taking off the throttle/brake servo horn (just unscrew and take off the horn, no need to take the horn out of the entire car, then the turn the RX on, then the TX, don't touch the brake or steering. Go to your throttle/brake servo's trim, and set the trim to 0%, dead center, so the servo isn't biased to either side. Set the steering dual rate to 100% for now.

Now you're gonna put the servo horn back onto the the servo, but try to put it on as straight up as you can, perpendicular to one of the servo case's long sides, on some cars, depending on how the steering/throttle/brake linkage is designed, you want the horn at a slight angle, but on most cars you want it perpendicular to the servo housing, or chassis, if your servo sits flat on it's long side on the chassis. The car and radio should be on during this step BTW. Then reattach any linkages and rods you took off to take the servo horn off, trim the servo, then set the dual rate/endpoints (basically, you don't want to servo to be straining to push or pull the linkage when the linkage is maxed out, only have the servo push/pull till right before the linkage bottoms out, @cbaker65 posted a video about setting EPA above, by Amain Hobbies).

This video shows what I mean, plus he's using the same radio as you!

Oh, and make sure your servo is in good condition, and not worn out or stripped. Sorry for the long-winded reply!

Edit: And welcome to the forum! If you haven't, feel free to check out my RCT Member Location Map Thread (shameless plug )!

This is exactly how it looks

What happens when you only apply a little brake an not full brake trigger ,does it still twitch?..

No it doesn’t twitch

 

[cbaker65]

 

[hubs.rc]

This is exactly how it looks

No it doesn’t twitch

This is how it is setup on mine. My friend who gave me this didn’t build like this but it can stock from the factory

 

[cbaker65]

This is exactly how it looks

No it doesn’t twitch

If that is the case ,then it is from the servo being under stress of too much of a load ,the pick shows the spring
on the throttle rod ,that relieves the pressure when the brake are applied ,but you should be able to adjust
the throw or travel of the servo!

 

[hubs.rc]

How do I do that then? I’ve watched the videos and they have the remotes with a LCD screen and they can just trim it there but when I tried to loosen the black little circle next to the rubber it didn’t move at all