SCX24 3D printer idea

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Senistr

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So I was looking at various 3D print files online and it's been about 5 years since i've taken my 3D printing class in college but I did have an idea that I do believe would work, but don't know the measurements needed some I am wondering if there is someone who could help me with the idea. So, here it goes...

I notice there are a lot of people who try to relocate the main ESC box and the battery tray and I was thinking, why not make a full frontal plate? The idea would be to keep the stock shock mountain spot, or maybe add spots for the front stocks and make a tray to push the ESC forward to sit over the steering servo and add a battery tray behind it, while keeping the body mounting spot in the same spot. Everything would be 1 piece and can just be mounted to the existing stock frame. This would give all of the weight to the front for better grip and be easy for modulation. I will keep looking at the designs but i would have to reteach myself everything at this point.

So if there is someone a bit more savvy with TinkerCad or Thinkverse who has the measurements, what would you think?
 
Sounds like it might work. I don't have the experience need though.
Yeah that's what it boils down to. Looking at the files, i found a forward battery mount tray that has the body mount piece and the shock attachment placement. If I can figure out the front body placement, and figure out a tray for the servo, it might actually work nicely, and if i keep it with either !) no body post for a flush magnetic or velcro set up. just wish i knew exactly how much space is in between the top of where the steering servo stops, to where the body will sit. I know people can just rip the casing off for smaller support, but as I said, I want to try to get this as user friendly as possible.
 
Another way that's possible is to reverse the original servo mount's positioning and raising it a little bit, and then a battery bracket in place of the servo is now. Essentially raising the ESC to be directly over the steering servo with a little clearance underneath, push the body post piece back about half an inch and have the battery tray there. If done right, the post hole, or magnet(s) would be just in front of the windshield of like the jeep wrangler body. The ESC would be pushed forward and clear that post and have a few mm's of room to spare before the body touches it. the mounting holes can line up to where the current led bumper mount, and the current mounting brackets for the ESC. Instead of the body mounting bar going all the way across, leave it as two small squares coming up from the tray. If that makes any sense...Hoping someone understands my lingo at least lol.
 
Something to think about, make sure all the wires have clearance when plugged in too.
I did think of this, its park of the reason to leave the body holder open uptop so the wires can be routed down the middle. Would take at least a motor extension with stock motor. This is of course if you dont do something like the PN motor which rotates the motor to the front. In that case, it could be possible to have the new battery tray above the motor.
 
This could be done. I actually have the entire chassis modeled up with plans to do something like this eventually. But I am just waiting and trying to find another truck for parts to do a 6x6 build. When I do that I will be going with some heavy mods to all the locations of things.
 
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Awesome. Ill be watching for things to replace on our mini crawlers. Id dish out now but just got the wife her "vroom vroom monster truck"
 
The real problem with 3d printing is getting good 3d modeling software. Something like Fusion 360, Inventor, Solidworks, or something of that caliber really helps. Tinkercad is OK, but it isn't really ideal for making parts where you want the dimensions to be accurate, because it doesn't do circles very well the last time I looked into it.
 
Tinkercad can be truly amazing or really horrible. I know where you sit with that one. I just never delved too much into it besides my college class.
 
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