Today I added the chassis rails I was hoping to get slightly narrower’C’ profiles but ended up with a sort of square section, it quite light so I can live with it. It involved a bit of sawing facing off square in the mill and drilling for the mounting screws, nothing particularly interesting but critical to keep the thing square.
They also may need shortening but as they say you can cut excess off but it’s hard to add it back on.
Next are the bits which are to hold the front wheels on. I’m going for a fixed axle as seems to be the standard arrangement with soap box go-cart style steering. Ok it’s not steering per se it’s a trim to help it smoothly get around the circuit if required.
First is a fairly chunky cross connecting lump, but the plan is to fit it between the rail C section and then remove what I can to get the weight down. First face off both ends to make a rectangular solid
Then reduce the top surface for a tight fit between the C on each side.
Next remove the centre, reducing the thickness so that the centre hub can sit down within it and support the front wheel shaft at the correct height
Because the chassis rails partially coincide with the shaft height I will have to cut away a section of the rail around the front shaft. This is an irritation but I am hopeful that the sturdy cross member will hold what remains of the front section Of rails which simply need to support the front of the body work. Part of the cross member needs to be cut away to allow the front axle to swivel a few degrees.
it will look tidier once I’ve cleaned it up, but more importantly it has lost a fair bit of weight
Next up is the swivel front axle hub.
Starting by facing off a block, then drilling the hole for the front shaft.
Then reaming the hole to its final size, probably not necessary but it was easy with the mill locked off in position
Then on to drilling the shaft/axle retaining screw and the very simple swivel axle which will be an M5 screw done up tight. I’ll fit a smaller set screw in the cross member below to lock the swivel in place. First using a centre drill to guide the twist drills in to the right place. No need to centre punch, just touch off from three sides of the block and wind the mill table to each position according to the digital readout then drill. The DRO is probably the single most effective way of improving the accuracy of my work. All of the milling operations on the cross member where done with no setting out or marking the piece, just touch off three faces and calculate every move from one corner or centre line on the piece.