Received my HPI 4.6 Truggy

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JoeMAXX

Gone - bye bye.
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Hi all,

Few observations when I pulled my new HPI 4.6 Truggy out of the box. These are in no way complaints and just informational.

I found it requires a bit of work to get it RTR ready which I am not used to when I have bought Team Associated and Traxxas RTRs. My past experience with these 2 companies they are almost fully ready to run out of the Box.

I first adjusted my shocks with spacers so the suspension arms sat level to the ground this is a normal adjustment with any new RTR. I will probably change the shock positions so they require less spacers and feel out the handling of the stock setup after the break in the engine than feel it out on the track.

The Truggy needed some major suspension tuning after I centered the steering Servo with the radio. This is normal with all RTRs and not a huge deal.

I had to turn the turnbuckle on the servo linkage quite a bit to get the steering linkage centered so my end points on the steering linkage were equal on both sides. Then I had to tweak the toe in really far in on one side because it looked like Marty Feldman in Young Frankenstein :D The other side was a fairly minor adjustment and little bit of a toe out adjusting to get it to 0 degrees because it also was little off.

I did not have to adjust the Camber settings they were already set at 90 degrees on both the front and rear. There is no toe in or out settings on the rear which is OK since many R/Cs have it preset on the suspension arms. I like to have this adjustment for rear traction on different track conditions but not necessary.

Now I am wondering how am I going to replace the 4 cell Alkaline battery pack with a NiMH 5 cell battery hump pack? What bugs me is I will have to solder some stuff because HPI has not gone to the universal cell pack connector on their On/Off Switch and I do not know of any Hump Packs that will plug into this older design.

I will have to test to see if one fits in the waterproof battery box. I have one laying around but have not got to that point yet since I always start with the suspension settings first before I perform the engine break in procedure.

I do find HPI engine breakin different than other engine manufactures. HPI suggests you run the engine on a stand for the first tank idling. It would take forever to burn thru a tank of fuel.

Almost all other Engine Manufactures say perform 1/4 throttle runs on the first and second tank. Then run half throttle on the third. 3/4 Throttle on the forth and never hit full throttle until the 5th tank. I will use the suggested method from other engine manufacturers.
 
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5 cell hump pack fits in the receiver box. i put in a venom pack in there. i dont know what the older design looks like on older models for plugging into on off switch, but mine works. i just spliced the wires twisted em together and put a heat shrink tube on them. just find u some connecters that will work. i think i took one off an old wall battery charger.
 
5 cell hump pack fits in the receiver box. i put in a venom pack in there. i dont know what the older design looks like on older models for plugging into on off switch, but mine works. i just spliced the wires twisted em together and put a heat shrink tube on them. just find u some connecters that will work. i think i took one off an old wall battery charger.

I did purchased a 1700 NiMh Hump receiver pack for it today and should have purchased 2 male to female Futuba leads along with it so I could modify the switch connector and hang a charge lead out of the battery box so I never have to open it again. After thoughts keep the LHS in business.

I did get thru 4 tanks of the break in procedure today since it was about 55 degrees out side. Chose not to use the HPI method of engine breakin process of the first tank of running the tires off the ground for the first tank of fuel is the worst thing any one could do to a R/C engine.

Free wheeling an engine on the first tank is the worst possible thing one can do to a new engine. :whhooo:

I did notice while performing the breakin procedure the steering servo is very weak and does not steer the truggy well. So now I need to find a better servo. I have Futaba S3305 Metal geared Servo but the splines do not match. I can buy another shaft for this Servo with some reasearch but ......

Without starting a new thread and those that read this.

New question What after market High Torque Servos match splines on the stock HPI Servos?
 
Some hump packs have a charge lead on them. As long as your truck is in the OFF position, you just charge to the extra tail on the pack.

The last 2 packs I bought are like that. One tail for the switch, one for charging.

If you have an old dead servo laying around, cut the lead off that and just cut/solder it into the tail coming off your pack.
 
I visited my LHS today and purchased a HiTec HS-645MG 130 OZ servo which is a 23 Spline. The Truggy did come with other Servo Arms for other servo manufactures with it which was nice did not know it until I took them with me to fit a new servo then relized the number on each one was the spline count. At first I thought they were different lenghs. They did not publish this in the manual. I readjusted the steering after putting the new servo in. Snowing today so I could not take it out to run tomorrow on Christmas. yay we are going to have a White Christmas with about 4 inches of new snow on the ground.

I took the NiMH 1700 battery Pack and cut the leads then soldered in the plug from the stock 4 cell battery holder and plug it into the switch than hung the Futaba style lead out of the battery box for a charge lead. Worked well and now I have a charge lead hanging out of the battery box and should not need to open it again.

I will probably replace the Stock Throttle Servo with the stock HPI Steering servo so it will get a little better response times and harder braking if I ever use the brakes.

Thanks guys your extra advice has been helpful !!!
 
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