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RC18 Spur gear upgrade?

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Plaidfish

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I tried the search feature and keep getting a thread from StrechM about a mini-T gear cover.....so anyone have a good replacement one? I've fried 3 now since I went to a maxxamp Lipo in it....the 2100mah pack specifically...I can use a 1550mah pack and it's fine....one run with the big pack and the teeth are all chewed.....
 
Sorry Plaid but I've spammed up this forum but good :D

The hot lipos and motors always seem to toast spurs or pinions.

Forget about the narrower hardened steel spurs too if your sticking the juice to it. You may end up cutting your pinions (almost) in half. Find a wide or thick spur if you can. It will give more contact area where the pinion and spur connect and handle the torque better.

I finally had to buy Atomic plastic and delrin spurs for my M18t. They are wide enough with enough bite not to buzz saw the teeth off of the pinions in a crash or from just supplying too much power.

Edit** You've probably installed a pack with a higher discharge capability so check the pitch of the pinions that you are using. Spurs and pinions are almost always .5 or .6 metric for 1/18th scale.
.5 does not mesh properly with .6. The more hp you install the more critical this becomes. Your lhs and most online stores generally are not aware of this. (I have a lot of experience learning this the hard way).
 
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I toasted an aluminum spur from 3 Racing in 4 3 minute runs on the track. Let me know what you find.

In my case I believe most of my issues are caused by chassis flex not power. I'm running the Mamba 8K with a 1550. I'm looking at the CF chassis that are available for the 18T. Specifically the Diggity design units. I recently became a dealer for them and want to get one before I offer their products to my customers.
http://www.diggitydesigns.com/

Robmob just got the M18 Pro and will run it at our club races. It will be interesting to see the issues he runs into.
 
I toasted an aluminum spur from 3 Racing in 4 3 minute runs on the track. Let me know what you find.

In my case I believe most of my issues are caused by chassis flex not power. I'm running the Mamba 8K with a 1550. I'm looking at the CF chassis that are available for the 18T. Specifically the Diggity design units. I recently became a dealer for them and want to get one before I offer their products to my customers.
http://www.diggitydesigns.com/

Robmob just got the M18 Pro and will run it at our club races. It will be interesting to see the issues he runs into.

Hey Ed,

So is the reason you smoked the spur due directly to the chassis flex? I am running the tekin setup in my 18t and have not had any issues yet, but would be concerned given my current setup. Did you start with a stock 18t or did you start with a Factory Team edition? I am curious as to what you end up doing with your setup, as well as how Rob's setup works as well. Do you know what motor he is going to use? Thanks

Tom
 
Sorry Plaid but I'm hi-jacking your thread.

Here is what I'm referring to;

Not much flex with this chassis. The gear mesh was painfully correct. Note the Wraith brushless that I removed. Too much power. The truck went airborne and crashed (literally caught air at a high speed). It also ruined the aluminum motor mount when it landed along with the RRP pinion. I spent the better part of the week rebuilding it to this current picture.
DSC00741-1.webp


Top to bottom; XRay hardened steel spur, Atomic plastic, Atomic delrin.
DSC00746.webp



All of my motors have notched shafts for the grub screw to prevent slipping along with plenty of locktite.
XRay spurs and pinions are 48p Imperial. XRay supplies plastic pinions only for 1/18th (bottom), both are stripped with the centers melted. Top 2 are RRP 1/8th shaft size 48p Imperial (top left) and a Trinity (top right) 48p metric. There were more that I threw away.
You can see the trinitry did not mesh.
The 1/8th" shaft RRP fit perfectly with a collar made from a piece of stainless 1/8" K & S tubing drilled to fit the 2mm shaft.
DSC00748.gif
 
I've been using Aluminum spurs and pinions on both of my RC-18s. Haven't stripped them yet. Maybe it's because I'm only running the 6800kV motors and 7-cell NiMH packs, though.
 
I think I'm experiencing the combination of ED and Strech..I've still got the stock chassis and it definately flexed...I had 3 strips of CF I glued into tthe tuband it helped a lil....the 2100 pack is just ridiculous power causing the chassis to flex too much, even when I reprogram it to soft starts....I figured the thinner steel wasn't a good idea since the smaller contact area generates more heat and the aluminum pinions would cook, I used to run RC10 gold tubs and we would cut the brushes down to needles and over amp the packs just to get high current draw and warp speeds (for the 80s)...similar setup (current draw) to what we all run as out of the box stuff from today.....point being we all tried that setup back then and it never worked.......I was hoping there would be a delrin gear for the RC18 but I can't find em....I'm getting the atomic ones...what gearing are finding to be safe for your motor / pack setup Ed? and please let me know how you like those chassis you will be selling, I'll get one if you give a good review....maybe the TC4 setup too....my 1550 pack lasted all of 3 packs and then shorted out somehow.....I'm sending it in for warranty and I'm not really looking to cook another spur gear with the 2100 again so she will sit on the shelf for a while......BTW Ed how do you hold your 2100 pack in? I just extended the screws out a lil bit and wrap a heavy duty rubber band around em across the top of the pack until I can't make anymore loops...this is what made me notice the chassis flex issues and prompted the CF strips.....works OK, but definately looks engineeringly challenged (new P.C. term).....
 
I'm running the stock larger spur and the largest stock pinion with the mamba 8K. I'm only running the 1550 Maxamps pack. Fits in stock.
 
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