rc10gt just bought it

[travis9264]

:horsecrap hey, i just bought an rc10gt and it is my first r/c car and i need to know what parts i should get. and will it matter if i go full throttle after i just got done with the break in or should i still take it easy and if i should take it easy then how many tanks should i wait to go full throttle.

:constipat

 

[lykan]

If the engine is broken in, and you have it tuned right (not too lean) it should be safe to drive it like you want to.

As for spare parts, their are some you will most likely need at any time. (listed in order of priority) Also depending on how hard you are on the truck.

• extra battery for plug warmer/ignitor
• glow plugs
• extra spur gear
• extra turnbuckle
• extra set of A-arms
• Healthy assortment of zip ties
• double sided sticky tape

As for needed items

• decent air filter (motor saver)
• fuel filter
• after run oil

Good tough parts

• Lunsford Titanium turnbuckles
• RPM shock towers
• RPM A-arms
• Robinson racing steel spur gear (driver preference.)

Any other parts(and the good tough upgrades) you should just upgrade as you break them. You will find the first things I listed to be commonly needed items that will end a bash session abruptly.

These cars nickel and dime guy hard. I have more than once spent the last of my R/C budget on an upgrade, only to break a different part the next day. Then I am stuck with some cool upgrades, but not enough cash to fix what I broke. That's why I suggest upgrading as you break instead of blowing your load on hop ups right off the bat.

Since this is your first car, here's a tip or two. To help avoid frusteration

Before you even start it, check all the screws for snug. Second tank of break In I lost my pull starter. ABout the third time out, my motor m,ount screws came loose, and I ate a few spurs before I figured it out.

If it's cold out, warm up the engine before you try to start it, either with your car heater, or a blow dryer. Cold engines don't start well. They can fursterate the heck out of you.

Always run with the lid on. I found out the hard way. The lid really helps protect the valuables inside. Again more than once I thought "ill put it on next pass", and promptly rolled it and broke parts lol.

Cut a hole in the windsheild if their isn't one already. You need good airflow over the engine to keep it cool.

Good luck, you found a killer site with lots of info.

 

[zoeybadm]

Yeah I agree with everything that is said above. I know you will be tempted to go full throttle but you must be patient with the engine if you want it to last a long time before being replaced. Wait at least 5 tanks of full gas before you go full throttle and even after that let the engine warm up for about a minute before letting it rip. When warming up you can give it half throttle in short burst just like you will be doing when running the car but do not go full throttle.

1. Temp gauge is key and make sure to keep the temp after running the engine for about 1 minute around 200 F and if it near 300 you need to turn the HSN richer and make small changes to the HSN like 1 hour adjustments on a clock.

2. Make sure you get a couple glow plugs which are the right heat range for your motor your LHS should know the correct glow plugs (think McCoy)

3. Do not get cheap fuel because it will just ruin your motor (i.e. stay away from the Wildcat Eliminator fuel )and make sure you have enough lubricant in the fuel to keep the motor happy. I run Blue Thunder race fuel as well as Trinity Platinum Race Fuel which are both 20% but Trinity does make a 30% mixture which will give you some serious power but short engine life.

4. RPM ball ends are a great upgrade and cost $5 and at the same time you may want to plunk down and get the titanium turnbuckles which will save you a little weight but the added strength is worth the cost.

5. TIE DOWN THE RECEIVER PACK WITH AS MANY ZIP TIES AS IT TAKES! I cannot stress this enough as Team Assoc. seems to be the only company which does not have a battery box for the rec. pack. When the rec. pack falls out start praying to the RC gods because it will most likely get real ugly fast. TIE DOWN THAT PACK.

6. Before every run go over the vehicle and check for loose screws and make sure everything is tight it only takes a minute and can save you from downtime and possibly breaking parts (i.e. the nickel and dime stuff)

7. Also if you intend to do any type of formal racing you will need a good servo with at least 100 ounces of torque. I use the JR ultra race and it barely has enough torque to do the job. Airtronics makes a 200 ounce torque servo which gets the job done in my B4 Buggy and it is what all the pros use (i.e. the pros who are national champions)

Oh yeah last night Birdman or Birdman motors raced at my local track and he broke his car in half and I mean in half like his car came down in two completely separate pieces. Oh yeah and the guy travels with a bunch of freaking birds which are noisy as hell...it figures.