Welcome to RCTalk
Come join other RC enthusiasts! You'll be able to discuss, share and private message with other members of our community.
This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
pug
RCTalk Addict
- Messages
- 1,190
- Reaction score
- 734
- RC Driving Style
- Bashing
- Racing
- Crawling
Racing a monster truck is hard, but possible, you would need to lower the center of gravity somehow. I recommend getting a 1/10 or 1/8 truggy/buggy to race with instead. Also, it doesn't really look like a 1/10 scale from the pictures, more like a 1/14 or 1/12 scale.
You also need to find a monster truck class at a track which would be pretty hard unless you're just doing it for fun during practice time.
You also need to find a monster truck class at a track which would be pretty hard unless you're just doing it for fun during practice time.
Last edited:
Nice looking truck rayg.
Monster Truck racing tends toward to solid axle rigs. Swing-arm A-frame suspension MT's get sort of left out.
Looking at Trigger King RC Monster Truck Series, they list six classes. Four of them are solid axle only. Of the two remaining, one is Losi LMT [axle] only. The other is Trophy Truck [Short Course].
JConcepts has sponsored one or two wildcat events days past. Minnesota, I think they were. Now it seems their events link to the Trigger King Series.
Like pug says, you'll have ask about and look about for a series or class for your MT. Good luck. Hope this helps. Cheers. 'AC'
Monster Truck racing tends toward to solid axle rigs. Swing-arm A-frame suspension MT's get sort of left out.
Looking at Trigger King RC Monster Truck Series, they list six classes. Four of them are solid axle only. Of the two remaining, one is Losi LMT [axle] only. The other is Trophy Truck [Short Course].
JConcepts has sponsored one or two wildcat events days past. Minnesota, I think they were. Now it seems their events link to the Trigger King Series.
Like pug says, you'll have ask about and look about for a series or class for your MT. Good luck. Hope this helps. Cheers. 'AC'
PoppinCaps
RCTalk Rookie
Do you have the model # or manufacturer name?
I ask because that truck looks very similar to a Spirit Vatos. My son has one of these and it is a fun truck and decently made for the price. It isn't a full 1:10 scale vehicle. It also isn't gonna be a good platform to build a race MT.
Have fun with it and learn how to repair and maintain it. Then take that knowledge and start looking for a race platform that your local track has competitions for.
Last edited:
STONER RC
BUILD it, SEND it, BASH it, FIX it, REPEAT
Lifetime Supporter!
Supporter
Excellence Award
Hospitality Award
Build Thread Contributor
- Messages
- 4,429
- Reaction score
- 3,862
- Location
- Brick, New Jersey
- RC Driving Style
- Bashing
- Racing
- Crawling
- Scale Builder
- Flying
- Boating
Welcome sorry but I would say get a short course truck. You will have better luck finding races. MT really aren't big on racing...
I've seen that car before, it's closer to a 1/12 scale than a 1/10 scale.
By race, do you mean like racing with friends and stuff, or actual, competition racing, with a proper track, timer, everything? If you mean the latter, than you might not have super good luck, as 1/10 scale MT racing isn't as popular as like 1/10 and 1/8 buggy and truggy classes. Welcome to the forum! Also, do you need any help indentifing the truck?
That isnt a true hobby grade truck, and parts arent really available to make it into anything you could race with, unfortunately. For those who may be wondering, it is this truck: https://www.amazon.com/FMT-Control-Controlled-Off-Road-Assorted/dp/B07MV54BXL Its dual motor, has a circuit board instead of an ESC, and almost every part on it is plastic, including the diffs.
ground_zero298
RCTalk Talkaholic
Military Veteran
- Messages
- 350
- Reaction score
- 474
Lot of reports for the shocks breaking and being the size of a 1/12 scale. Good price though.
It says it has a partially metal driveline, and 60a "ESC"? And it has some other metal parts, including metal A-arms? Interesting choices...at the end of the day, ESCs are Electronic Speed Controls, which means that inside the case, they are circuit boards too. I get what you mean though. Interesting how in the rear, it has 2 shocks per wheel, older nitro style, but in the front, only one shock per wheel.
pl9171
RCTalk Racer
Racing?
Monster trucks (with all the respect...) are just not able to follow the pace on race track; too short wheelbase, too much roll over, too much bouncing...
All those guys on the pictures have switch to Truggy 1/18...
But MT are a pretty good start for air control.
Welcome here.
Yeah, from videos I've seen, MTs don't handle/corner as well as buggies or truggies obviously, and they roll and flip too much like you said. Just not stable enough, all though, if the objective of the race is to pull max wheelies, stunts, backlips, flips, ect. then an MT is your best bet! However, you may not need to go out and buy a buggy or truggy, you *could* in some cases, convert your MT to a truggy, by lowering the suspension/ride height a little, maybe fitting some sway bars, getting a truggy body, and sutible race tires.Racing?
Monster trucks (with all the respect...) are just not able to follow the pace on race track; too short wheelbase, too much roll over, too much bouncing...
View attachment 142193
All those guys on the pictures have switch to Truggy 1/18...
But MT are a pretty good start for air control.
Welcome here.
Every MT i have owned i eventually either convert to a LWB short course truggy hybrid, or, if i can't do that, i get rid of it. MT's are great for stunts, jumps, and bashing, but too unstable to really race. Torque roll is the biggest problem with them, and, unless you lower it, wont ever really go away. Even some LWB MT's have that issue, if they have the wrong tires. I have thought about building a Traxxas Slash/Stampede hybrid, that way you get the bigger wheels and tires, and the LWB, but, i already have an Arrma 3S truggy hybrid, and a DHK Hunter truggy hybrid, so I'm not sure i want to bother with another one. There are also a few LWB 2WD options (ECX Ruckus is the first one that comes to mind), or, find a 2WD SCT and put some MT wheels and tires on it, and you will see what i mean. You could also find an ECX Circuit or AMP MT, and it would be a cheap way to get a feel for the different ways different vehicles handle, since all you would have to do is swap tires and see what the differences are.
I see, seems like you're really into your SCTs and Truggies. I can't blame you, buggies and truggies have great handling, that's from personal experience. However like you said, MTs are good for wheelies, air, and other stunts, as well as tougher off-roading. Sway bars and suspension tuning will help with the body/traction roll, and reduce, but not eliminate it. I never knew tires made such a difference to body/traction roll!
Wider tires do pretty much the same thing extending the hubs does, to some extent. Take the Arrma BRCC. Typically, the first thing most people do with it is get rid of the Ragnarocks, and put the Granite or similar, wider, 2.8 MT tires on it. On my Arrma hybrid, if i run 2.8 tires, like the Duratrax Six Pack MT's that are on my DHK Hunter, its a bit more squirelly than the Hunter, so, on the Arrma, i run Vorteks tires. The Vorteks tires are a 1/2 inch or so smaller diameter than the Granite tires, and about .5MM skinnier, and even that little bit makes a difference in how that truck handles. Tread design, sidewall stiffness, height, width all play a part in how a tire works for a certain vehicle. Its no different than tires for a 1:1 car.
Yeah, a wider track width (for anyone who doesn't know, the track width on a car is the distance between the centers of the left and right wheel on the same axle) will make a vehicle more stable in turns, especially at speed. The downsides are obviously, a wider car, so it's less portable, and you'll have a harder time maneuvering in tighter/smaller spaces, as well as slightly more vehicle weight.
Wider tires mean more traction and more rotational weight, compared to wider hubs. Someone correct me if I'm wrong, but wider tires with a lower offset than stock (so they stick out more), you'll get more tire scrub, as the servo has to move the front wheels back and forth more as well as side to side. Wider hubs, like on crawlers, will result in more scrub too, if you don't want more scrub but wider track width, get wider axles and/or wider wheels with the same or more offset than stock (though be careful with rubbing with wider wheels, if you don't use wider axles/hubs).
I agree with you too, tires are very important. Some race guys will smear a thing layer or CA glue of the tire's sidewall when gluing or mounting tires, or even when the tires come pre-mounted to rims. A lot of them only glue the front or rear tire sidewalls, some only do the outside sidewall, or the inside sidewall (less common), or both. And racers are picky with how high they glue them too, some go half the side wall, others go the whole sidewall, ect. I'm no racer, so I can't give advice. I've heard that gluing sidewalls on SCTs is effective too, as SCTs have higher outside sidewalls, and shorter inside sidewalls for some reason.
Anyway, I've talked enough about tires for the reply!
