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PRP Swift

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I'm running the stock SH engine. When the fuel tank is full it funs very rich and when the fuel tank is low it runs very lean. Has anybody tried different fuel line/pressure line diameters and/or lengths?

I have also received a rotostart today, so I'll fit that tonight and let you know if its better than the standard pull start.
 
JamesColclough88 said:
I'm running the stock SH engine. When the fuel tank is full it funs very rich and when the fuel tank is low it runs very lean. Has anybody tried different fuel line/pressure line diameters and/or lengths?

I have also received a rotostart today, so I'll fit that tonight and let you know if its better than the standard pull start.
Click to expand...

All nitro engined cars suffer from this effect to some degree, although the Swift with the stock engine does seem to suffer more than most. Fuel pressure at the HSN is determined by the weight of the "head" of fuel in the tank and pressure from the tuned pipe. In a full tank the weight of the head of fuel has a greater effect and in an empty tank it takes longer for the bleed pressure from the tuned pipe to pressurize the tank.

Renew your fuel and pressure lines first of all, just in case there is a pinhole in one of them. Also make sure that your fuel tank lid makes a good seal when shut.

I'm using a 9" large bore pressure line and a much shorter (4") fuel line with a small fuel filter in the middle. The fuel line is arranged in an inverse "U" shape between the tank and the carb with the fuel filter at the highest point. The car will still idle on its lid for at least 30 seconds with this arrangement.


I'm about to replace the stock engine and tuned pipe in one of my Swifts with a Hyper 21 8-port and 086 inline pipe. I'll let you know if this makes any difference to the full/empty tank mixture settings.

I have also obtained a starter shaft for the rotostart on my other Swift. I'll try this too and report back here.
 
SH Tunning and full Tank vs. empty Tank

Has anyone else changed their fuel tank? My SH was impossible to tune and I tried everything including sealing the engine, replacing lines etc. But all the tuning issues went away when I put in a Mugen tank I bought on EBay. Now, it starts, idles and runs all day without an issue. (I have about 4 gallons through it.) But, as with most of the mods on my Swift, the fit of the new tank is not exact and you lose that nice little drainage tube.
 
dxm2 said:
Has anyone else changed their fuel tank? My SH was impossible to tune and I tried everything including sealing the engine, replacing lines etc. But all the tuning issues went away when I put in a Mugen tank I bought on EBay. Now, it starts, idles and runs all day without an issue. (I have about 4 gallons through it.) But, as with most of the mods on my Swift, the fit of the new tank is not exact and you lose that nice little drainage tube.
Click to expand...

I suspect the filler cap on the tank. I did a leak test under water with one of my Swift tanks and it was the filler cap that was the problem. I dismantled the cap and seal and soaked the seal in fuel before reassembling, the problem seemed to be cured but I suspect it will happen again.

Do you know if the MBX-5 cap will fit on the Swift tank? If so, the MBX-5 Pro-Spec filler cap can be bought separately as an option part and may be a useful upgrade for Swifts.

Have you resolved your clutch bell problems yet? I didn't notice any circlips on my clutch bells.
 
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niggle said:
Do you know if the MBX-5 cap will fit on the Swift tank? If so, the MBX-5 Pro-Spec filler cap can be bought separately as an option part and may be a useful upgrade for Swifts.

Have you resolved your clutch bell problems yet? I didn't notice any circlips on my clutch bells.
Click to expand...


I don't know if the cap from the Mugen tank will fit. I'll take a look and get back.

The new clutch bell is in and working. I didn't go with the 12 tooth because my LHS actually had the PRP clutch bell in stock and on hand.
 
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niggle said:
I'm using a 9" large bore pressure line and a much shorter (4") fuel line with a small fuel filter in the middle. The fuel line is arranged in an inverse "U" shape between the tank and the carb with the fuel filter at the highest point. The car will still idle on its lid for at least 30 seconds with this arrangement.

I have also obtained a starter shaft for the rotostart on my other Swift. I'll try this too and report back here.
Click to expand...

Thanks for your help, I will try your fuel line arrangement this evening and see how things go.

I have also now replaced the pull start with the rotostart that you recomended. The rotostart is a direct fit for the engine and the position of the rotostart is ideal for passing the rotostart shaft through the back suspension. The only slight problem that I had with fitting the rotostart onto the backplate was that the depth of the rotostart system is slightly more than the pull start. This means that you either have to dremel a little recess out of the chassis behind the engine or shave a little off the rotostart plastic casing. I took the option of cutting down the rotostart case, after 20 mins of slowly filing it fitted perfectly and my pull start days are over!

Thanks!
 
bigwavedave

G'day Buggy Racers,
I am new to buggies and recently purchased a PRP Swift for my kids (me!!).
Already I have broken the pull start. Not the cord but the wheel it winds around (probably from pulling to far). I have searched everywhere but cannot find out if there is a rotostart available for the Swift. Can anyone help me? The quality of service from hobby stores in Australia leaves a lot to be desired.

Thanks all
Dave
 
hello fellow, Swift buggy peeps.

had a good, and a bad dya off bashing with my buggy yesterday. althoi manged to pull off a good jump, with a flip in mid air, about 5 mins later i need to restart it, but pulled the cord off :(, oh well, looks like i got to get a new pull start.

PS I'm posting a vid of the buggy doing flips in mid air, and also my XtR schu doing wheelies at 60 mph

with buggerin my puull start, it got me thinking also about a new eingine?,

any ideas guys on engine for my swift?

cheers
 
bigwavedave said:
G'day Buggy Racers,
I am new to buggies and recently purchased a PRP Swift for my kids (me!!).
Already I have broken the pull start. Not the cord but the wheel it winds around (probably from pulling to far). I have searched everywhere but cannot find out if there is a rotostart available for the Swift. Can anyone help me? The quality of service from hobby stores in Australia leaves a lot to be desired.

Thanks all
Dave
Click to expand...

Both JamesColclough and I have fitted rotostarts to our stock (SH) engines. My engine came second hand with the rotostart fitted but I suspect that an rotostart designed for Force/SH/Picco engines is the one you want.

Smiffy said:
hello fellow, Swift buggy peeps.

had a good, and a bad dya off bashing with my buggy yesterday. althoi manged to pull off a good jump, with a flip in mid air, about 5 mins later i need to restart it, but pulled the cord off :(, oh well, looks like i got to get a new pull start.

PS I'm posting a vid of the buggy doing flips in mid air, and also my XtR schu doing wheelies at 60 mph

with buggerin my puull start, it got me thinking also about a new eingine?,

any ideas guys on engine for my swift?

cheers
Click to expand...

Smiffy, I imported an OFNA/HoBao Hyper 21 8-port with pullstart for $140 direct from the USA. This price includes insured shipping by air and works out at around 80 quid at current exchange rates. If you do get stung for import duty (I didn't) you would need to pay 9% import duty and then 17.5% VAT on top of that, and Royal Mail would also slap on a charge for processing the import through Customs & Excise on your behalf.

I also imported an OFNA 086 inline tuned pipe set for $50 (28 quid) from a different supplier in the US. Again, the price included insured shipping by airmail and I managed to avoid import duty and VAT.

The Hyper 21 8-port sourced from ModelSport in the UK costs around 160 quid.

Hope this information is of use to you.
 
HI SWIFT BUGGIERS...

i am a newbie in OFF-ROAD...
and my first buggy IS a SWIFT.... yaaahoooooooo!!!!
and this is my FIRST post in this site.... yahooooooooo!!!!!

and JamesColclough is my friend...

nice to see you here james!



:devious: mop :devious:
 
purple

niggle,

i saw your PURPLE SWIFT.

looks groooooooovy.

where did you get all those purple parts ?

:) mop :)

p/s- hmmmm... why is your stock TX for your swift is not MX3? UK version eh?
 
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UK version has a lame radio and purple anodized parts vs. US spec MX3 radio and champaign anodized parts.
 
Worn Starter Shaft

Has anyone else worn out their starter shaft? Maybe this is the result of using a roto-start. The one-way bearing seems OK, but I would think that it would wear out before the this shaft.

If you look at the picture, the last 5 mm on the shaft is smaller than the rest.
 

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bigwavedave said:
G'day Buggy Racers,
I am new to buggies and recently purchased a PRP Swift for my kids (me!!).
Already I have broken the pull start. Not the cord but the wheel it winds around (probably from pulling to far). I have searched everywhere but cannot find out if there is a rotostart available for the Swift. Can anyone help me? The quality of service from hobby stores in Australia leaves a lot to be desired.

Thanks all
Dave
Click to expand...

Dont know if you got my private msg but there is a rotostarter available for the swift,
$51 plus freight and all you need is a 7.2v battery and charger.
 
Dear ALL SWIFTERs...

i had my clutch shoes MELTED. Only after 6 litres of NITRO!!!!

is the clutch shoe THAT soft? i even had the SPRING that holds the clutch shoe became soooo sharp!!!! and they grind the clutch bell until the clutch bell become purplelish in colour!!!!

is there any better substitute (from outher buggy) for the clutch shoe for my swift? and do i need to change ONLY the clutch shoe or the whole CLUTCH system (including the collet, flywheel, flywheel holder, clutch shoe, shims and clutch bell....etc etc..?

thanks!


:) mop :)
 
if your clutchbell is ground on the inside by the springs, replace it. replace the clutch bearings for prevenative maintainance, and use mugen or kyosho carbon clutch shoes, and new springs of your choice. check your clutch more often so you dont ruin another clutchbell.
 

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