67'GT500+Nos=God
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does any1 know a good tuned exhaust for the nitro sport
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PRP Swift
- Thread starter Lightfytr
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Titanium
I was recently looking for titanium pins/turnbuckles for my swift and came across a pretty good deal I haven't seen mentioned anywhere else.
If you look in the 'blowout' section on lunsfords site: http://www.lunsfordracing.com/blowout_items.htm they have 4x78.4mm pins, these are pretty much the exact size of the front and rear inner hinge pins on the swift, the best part is that they are only $5/pair. They also have 4x55mm pins which are just a little longer than the stock outer rear pins for $5 to. Sadly there aren't any that are very close to the front upper arm pins.
If you're also looking for steering/camber links you'd need 3 4x40mm and 2 5x40mm turnbuckles which they have for $8 each.
Also, the MBX5 body will fit pretty good, much better than the stock body for sure. I'm currently running the recently discontinued MBX4 crowd pleaser and it fits quite snugly if you can find one.
I was recently looking for titanium pins/turnbuckles for my swift and came across a pretty good deal I haven't seen mentioned anywhere else.
If you look in the 'blowout' section on lunsfords site: http://www.lunsfordracing.com/blowout_items.htm they have 4x78.4mm pins, these are pretty much the exact size of the front and rear inner hinge pins on the swift, the best part is that they are only $5/pair. They also have 4x55mm pins which are just a little longer than the stock outer rear pins for $5 to. Sadly there aren't any that are very close to the front upper arm pins.
If you're also looking for steering/camber links you'd need 3 4x40mm and 2 5x40mm turnbuckles which they have for $8 each.
Also, the MBX5 body will fit pretty good, much better than the stock body for sure. I'm currently running the recently discontinued MBX4 crowd pleaser and it fits quite snugly if you can find one.
The Pro-Line Mugen MBX5 Crowd Pleazer body fits perfect.. I mounted one last weekend.. The only thing is that where the head of the motor comes through the body its not in the same spot as outlined on the body.. The hole is more forward about half an inch..
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Does the Swift have a kickup chassis, or is that a Hyper exclusive. Looking at the front of the Swift it looks like it would have a tendency to dig in on front end landings.
I am really torn between the Hyper PCR or the Swift but am leaning toward the Swift due to its upgraded parts and radio. Are the new diff gears in the Swift holding up and what parts are you guys breaking. Also what size are the shock shafts, are they 3.5 mm.
I am really torn between the Hyper PCR or the Swift but am leaning toward the Swift due to its upgraded parts and radio. Are the new diff gears in the Swift holding up and what parts are you guys breaking. Also what size are the shock shafts, are they 3.5 mm.
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I just want to say guys, the help and support from the Swift team (Roger and Jose) is unbeleiveable. Thank you again Roger for helping me out yesterday on the phone, you guys have exceeded all expectations and are probibly the best support I have ever dealt with. People in my LHS can't beleive the support that I have gotten from you guys and how much you have been helping me out. Cheers to you guys, if I ever meet you Roger or Jose in person, I will definitely buy you a beer or two 
I still have a couple questions... car is rock solid btw, since I have put lock tite on everything, it is all holding together just fine so far and the CVJ's that were sticky are just fine now, everything is smooth.
Question #1: Car still stumbles up high, Roger I know you told me to lean out the low end and richen up the top end, but when I did that, it still did the same thing but I even lost RPM's... so I put it back then started trying to find that sweet spot and I am just having a time with it. I know that screwing around with it will get it ironed out, but I am kind of lost... it LOOKS like it is rich down low cause when you first nail it from a stand still, it takes off pretty good, sometimes stumbles a bit but the smoke is thick and then as it gets to speed, you don't see much smoke and it sputters at it's highest RPM. Any suggestions? Also, the idle is out of control... for the most part it is super high which annoys me... because when I set it, I can get it to where I want it, then after making a pass or two, it starts idling super high and I can't get it to lower the idle for some reason... it has nothing to do with the servo position either.
Question #2: Is the servo that comes with it for throttle the same as the steering? (I am pretty sure it is)... if so, is that NOT enough to apply the breaks? It seems that no matter what I do the breaks just don't work the way I want them to... at first I had to keep adjusting them so that the car would roll freely at idle and that was fine, after running a half gallon through the motor and having it broken in, it seems that I can't get the servo to want to move enough to apply the breaks properly. It almost seems as if the servo doesn't have enough power to go against the spring on the throttle side along with applying the breaks enough... I don't know if it's something I am missing on the transmitter or if the servo just can't handle the payload. Can someone help here? Do you need to replace the throttle servo too? I would think that the servo that comes with it should be enough, just seems that no matter what I do on the transmitter (maybe I am doing something wrong too) it just doesn't change how far or how much the servo travels the other way.
Any help here is greatly appreciated. Thanx again guys.
I still have a couple questions... car is rock solid btw, since I have put lock tite on everything, it is all holding together just fine so far and the CVJ's that were sticky are just fine now, everything is smooth.
Question #1: Car still stumbles up high, Roger I know you told me to lean out the low end and richen up the top end, but when I did that, it still did the same thing but I even lost RPM's... so I put it back then started trying to find that sweet spot and I am just having a time with it. I know that screwing around with it will get it ironed out, but I am kind of lost... it LOOKS like it is rich down low cause when you first nail it from a stand still, it takes off pretty good, sometimes stumbles a bit but the smoke is thick and then as it gets to speed, you don't see much smoke and it sputters at it's highest RPM. Any suggestions? Also, the idle is out of control... for the most part it is super high which annoys me... because when I set it, I can get it to where I want it, then after making a pass or two, it starts idling super high and I can't get it to lower the idle for some reason... it has nothing to do with the servo position either.
Question #2: Is the servo that comes with it for throttle the same as the steering? (I am pretty sure it is)... if so, is that NOT enough to apply the breaks? It seems that no matter what I do the breaks just don't work the way I want them to... at first I had to keep adjusting them so that the car would roll freely at idle and that was fine, after running a half gallon through the motor and having it broken in, it seems that I can't get the servo to want to move enough to apply the breaks properly. It almost seems as if the servo doesn't have enough power to go against the spring on the throttle side along with applying the breaks enough... I don't know if it's something I am missing on the transmitter or if the servo just can't handle the payload. Can someone help here? Do you need to replace the throttle servo too? I would think that the servo that comes with it should be enough, just seems that no matter what I do on the transmitter (maybe I am doing something wrong too) it just doesn't change how far or how much the servo travels the other way.
Any help here is greatly appreciated. Thanx again guys.
There is a slight kick-up on the chassis plate. The front bumper would probably be better if it was rounded like on the OFNA/Hyper 7.
The Swift bumper lookes almost identical to the one on the Protect Enigma (www.protech.be). In fact, the more I study pictures of the Protech Enigma, the more similarities I see...
WA2FAST: Thanks for the kind words. Jose, Cameron, and Gary are at Las Vegas for the nationals and they are doing fine considering the track conditions. I'll be covering most of the questions here until the guys come back 
Question 1: Try going back to the stock settings and work from there. The stock settings are: 3 turn out from bottom on the high end needle. 2 turns out from bottom on the low end needle. Soulds like the top is still too lean bro; and the bottom sounds like its too rich if it sputters to get going. The stock settings should get you back in the ball park.
Question 2: Yes, the servo that comes with the throttle is the same as the steering servo ( air 94102 ). The breaks are hard to figure out cause it has sooo many factors ( break rods, throttle adjustments, radio EPA's, and break pad clearence ). I had a customer on the phone ( hey Matt ) , and he had the same issue. Try playing with the EPA on the radio and the adjustments on the break levers ( bottom and top ). Move the adjusters on the top and bottom break levers closer so the breaks will engage earlier. Matt had a good point to tightned the cap screws that hold down the break pads. Maybe the break pads have too much of a gap from the brake disc. I would try tightning those cap screws just a little bit, but make sure that the brake disc can still roll freely. Hope this helps.
The Kick-up on front of the chassis is 5 degrees I believe.
Question 1: Try going back to the stock settings and work from there. The stock settings are: 3 turn out from bottom on the high end needle. 2 turns out from bottom on the low end needle. Soulds like the top is still too lean bro; and the bottom sounds like its too rich if it sputters to get going. The stock settings should get you back in the ball park.
Question 2: Yes, the servo that comes with the throttle is the same as the steering servo ( air 94102 ). The breaks are hard to figure out cause it has sooo many factors ( break rods, throttle adjustments, radio EPA's, and break pad clearence ). I had a customer on the phone ( hey Matt
) , and he had the same issue. Try playing with the EPA on the radio and the adjustments on the break levers ( bottom and top ). Move the adjusters on the top and bottom break levers closer so the breaks will engage earlier. Matt had a good point to tightned the cap screws that hold down the break pads. Maybe the break pads have too much of a gap from the brake disc. I would try tightning those cap screws just a little bit, but make sure that the brake disc can still roll freely. Hope this helps.The Kick-up on front of the chassis is 5 degrees I believe.
Thanx Roger, I will try that out today as long as the weather stays nice... I will get a chance probibly in a couple of hours. Oh yeah, the weather is never nice in Mighigan, I totally forgot... I mean, as long as it doesn't change on me and totaly dump something insetad of being overcast and not raining :dumb:
Hey Roger... what about the idle... why does this thing have a mind of it's own?
Hey Roger... what about the idle... why does this thing have a mind of it's own?
Sorry to cut in here, but I spent a few hours last night setting up my new Swift and noticed similar problems.
The re-centering on the stock servos is not perfect but you can reduce the knock-on effects of this.
Make sure your throttle trim on your TX is such that there is a slight gap between the servo arm bracket and the rearmost collet on the throttle rod at the idle position.
Then adjust the tension on the throttle rod spring so that the throttle slide hits the idle stop consistently. Beware of applying too much tension here or you will not be able to apply maximum braking effort.
Race Director
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It's quiet on here recently, has anyone competed with their Swift - even at club level?
We no longer have a club on the Isle of Man, it's just a bunch of guys all over the place with totally different gear, we just drive where we can, but I miss competition, I miss winning races rather than messing around but fear it's all over.
We can't find a hall to race in because so much development has happened in the last 3 years, and anything large enough has been turned into offices for the finance sector.
I like to bench race like the rest but lets hear how you guys are getting on with the buggy for the purpose it was intended.
I tell you what I think would be cool, drive a skate park or bmx track just doing what those guys do (it must be possible!), and I love doing this with my Duratrax RealRace simulator.
We no longer have a club on the Isle of Man, it's just a bunch of guys all over the place with totally different gear, we just drive where we can, but I miss competition, I miss winning races rather than messing around but fear it's all over.
We can't find a hall to race in because so much development has happened in the last 3 years, and anything large enough has been turned into offices for the finance sector.
I like to bench race like the rest but lets hear how you guys are getting on with the buggy for the purpose it was intended.
I tell you what I think would be cool, drive a skate park or bmx track just doing what those guys do (it must be possible!), and I love doing this with my Duratrax RealRace simulator.
Hey Roger.. Have you or anyone had any problems with the steering rack bearings?? I only have 4 tanks of fuel through it ( just breaking in the motor and not racing ), and I noticed the steering binding up.. I checked the rack bearings and one was locked up..
Race Director - I'll be racing the Swift at the first MGR ( MICHIGAN GAS RACERS ) Series race this weekend I'll let you know how it does..
Race Director - I'll be racing the Swift at the first MGR ( MICHIGAN GAS RACERS ) Series race this weekend I'll let you know how it does..
I would LOVE to race again... I just don't know of any tracks anymore in this area (Detroit, MI area). All of the tracks that I used to run my 1/10 electric buggy at years back are now gone. If anyone can help me out here, I would love to visit a track and win some races with it.
I'm hoping to join Pendle MCC. I don't expect to win anything, this being David Crompton's home track...
According to Green Flag's route planner, there is less than 40 miles of road between you and the new track at Preston MCC. Unfortunately there is the small matter of 80 miles of Irish Sea and a 6 hour ferry crossing to contend with. Never mind...
Dude, there are plenty of tracks for Off-road around that area.. For outdoor off-road you have Empire Park ( Clarkston ), Pheasant Run ( Waterford ), and for indoor you have Dirt Burners ( Commerce ) which runs Nitro on Sundays and Electric on Saturdays..
Hey guys.. I was reading that some of you were running the MBX4 upper front arms on the Swift for more steering.. Does anyone have the part number for those arms?? I found some arms part number C0124, but I think they may be for the MBX5.. I'm not sure.. Thanks
If you're in Michigan theres a TON of tracks around, u guys got like 19 or so, (used to live there, now I'm bummin in Ca with 5-7 tracks at 2-9hr drive to get there,, *jeesh*)
anyways get ahold of Nick at hobby hub in Lansing and ask where it happenin, at least he can point you in the right direction, theres something going on this weekend also, call RnL hobbies, also theres a couple huuuuge places near you in the Detroit area,
you got it made.
-Will-
www.WilzWerx.com
horizon part number
MUGC0154
mbx-4 front upper arm
anyways get ahold of Nick at hobby hub in Lansing and ask where it happenin, at least he can point you in the right direction, theres something going on this weekend also, call RnL hobbies, also theres a couple huuuuge places near you in the Detroit area,
you got it made.
-Will-
www.WilzWerx.com
horizon part number
MUGC0154
mbx-4 front upper arm
You don't wanna talk to Nick at the Hub!! He's a clown!! J/K
!! No, really he's cool, but he's not going to up to date on the D-Town scene.. Those tracks that I listed are the hot spots in the Detroit area.. ( I know cause I'm there all the time ).. WA2FAST - Also if you wanna come a little farther north ( Flint and Saginaw like 45 minutes from Detroit ) there are lots of tracks there too.. Woodside, ShadeTree, and Sandhill are all killer off-road tracks.. Here are a couple web sites where all us Michigan people hang out at..
RC PIMP FORUMS
WOODSIDE ( Woodside is the place for SUPER BIG AIR )
SHORTRAC ( SANDHILL )
SHADETREE
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Oh wow, thank you. I had no idea... I asked a few guys around here and no one really knew where to go. BTW, those tracks listed... really aren't all that close! But hey, a 45min drive is better than 2-3 hours. Clarkston isn't exactly around the corner, but would be worth it to roll up there for a day. Just like the others... I will check those links out, thank you.
Jay: Haven't had any issues with the steering rack bearings. You might have one of the cap allens too tight which may cause the bearing to lock-up. Just loosen it up a little, and put some some blue loc-tite on the threads. Just don't crank down on the screws after you loc-tite them cause it will cause the bearing to lock-up.
Its been quite on here cause the guys were at the nationals.