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PRP Swift
- Thread starter Lightfytr
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Hey, quick question... When I take the diff appart, I'm sure I won't have a problem with that, the question I have is about the CVJ's... I don't have the car in front of me as I am in my office right now (shhhhhhhh ;-) ) but I am looking at the manual that came with the car... what other screw are you guys talking about when you say take out one and loctite the other. I don't see two screws holding any one pin in place in these drawings. Can you help an ignorant fool here and tell me where to look so that I can knock this out right after work and break it in today? Thanx guys! I really appreciate the help.
WA2FAST: When you take all 6 CVJ's out of the car at the pivot point you will see 2 set screws, one on each side, holding the pin from coming loose, remove one of them completely and put inparts box, and just use one, be sure to loctite it again.
Hope this helps.
JZ
Hope this helps.
JZ
:worship: ( Have fun. )Thanx a bunch JZ. Roger, your the man, thank you again so much for the help, going through the manual over the phone like that and pointing out what I need to do was such a huge help and will cut down on time. Thanx again, you guys rock. I'll get this thing going yet. Oh yeah... forgot to ask you Roger... what kind of servo should I replace the steering one with? Don't want to drop too much bank if possible... just heard that you should do this and I just want to know which one would be a good choice. Thanx!
Thanx. Is there a difference between High Speed and High Torque? I have noticed that they are labled differently. Does it matter? What is different about them?
Also, real quick... the guy at one of my local hobby shops (not my swift dealer, a different one I went to with my RC10GT all of the time) about fell over when he saw the swift. Said that I need to completely re-set up the suspension that the toe was almost as rediculous as the caster. Any clue as to what he is talking about? I mean, I can tell that the front is toed way out, but what caster is he talking about? He also called it a GR buggy (pissed me off) with different parts. He said "they may not tell you, but that's exactly what it is". I was like, yeah whatever dude, give me the diff lube and shock oil. Anyway, can you shed some light on that for me? I promisse I will leave you guys alone soon
:madface:
Also, real quick... the guy at one of my local hobby shops (not my swift dealer, a different one I went to with my RC10GT all of the time) about fell over when he saw the swift. Said that I need to completely re-set up the suspension that the toe was almost as rediculous as the caster. Any clue as to what he is talking about? I mean, I can tell that the front is toed way out, but what caster is he talking about? He also called it a GR buggy (pissed me off) with different parts. He said "they may not tell you, but that's exactly what it is". I was like, yeah whatever dude, give me the diff lube and shock oil. Anyway, can you shed some light on that for me? I promisse I will leave you guys alone soon
:madface:
Originally posted by WA2FAST
Thanx. Is there a difference between High Speed and High Torque? I have noticed that they are labled differently. Does it matter? What is different about them?
Also, real quick... the guy at one of my local hobby shops (not my swift dealer, a different one I went to with my RC10GT all of the time) about fell over when he saw the swift. Said that I need to completely re-set up the suspension that the toe was almost as rediculous as the caster. Any clue as to what he is talking about? I mean, I can tell that the front is toed way out, but what caster is he talking about? He also called it a GR buggy (pissed me off) with different parts. He said "they may not tell you, but that's exactly what it is". I was like, yeah whatever dude, give me the diff lube and shock oil. Anyway, can you shed some light on that for me? I promisse I will leave you guys alone soon
:madface:
The reason why the buggy has sooo much toe-out is to make up for the standard 94102 servo ( .22 speed with 70 ounces of torque ). All of the production units came with alot of front caster, but we've covered that base already. We have new top front arms that will be in production. These new upper arms will be a hop-up option for tunability purposes. What alot of racers have done was to replace the top arms with MBX-4 top arms. This will give you less caster and more high speed steering.
Race Director
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Toe out also improves the ackerman effect (I prefer toe out on all my cars - 1°/side).
I'm confused, I always thought reduced caster improved low speed steering which is drastically lacking in the standard (or should I say original) car.
Working on my car yesterday and playing with the ackerman link, I came to the conclusion the inner track rods needed moving forwards about 5-6mm as the steering servo has very little effect on steering towards the end of it's travel - what do you think guys?
Another question to the team drivers, are the new castor blocks improved inasmuch as not restricting the pivot ball movement up & down on full lock (I got the dremel to mine, it gave a ton more steering)
Another thing I noticed, maybe its just my kit, but the right hand ackerman link mount was catching the inner steering track rod end preventing the steering reaching its max. (mr dremel again)
I love working on my car to iron out the niggles as much as driving it
I'm confused, I always thought reduced caster improved low speed steering which is drastically lacking in the standard (or should I say original) car.
Working on my car yesterday and playing with the ackerman link, I came to the conclusion the inner track rods needed moving forwards about 5-6mm as the steering servo has very little effect on steering towards the end of it's travel - what do you think guys?
Another question to the team drivers, are the new castor blocks improved inasmuch as not restricting the pivot ball movement up & down on full lock (I got the dremel to mine, it gave a ton more steering)
Another thing I noticed, maybe its just my kit, but the right hand ackerman link mount was catching the inner steering track rod end preventing the steering reaching its max. (mr dremel again)
I love working on my car to iron out the niggles as much as driving it
WA2FAST: There is a difference between High speed and high torque. What you want for an 1/8th scale is a servo with 100+ oz of torque, preferrably 120+. Like Roger said, we are working on a new upper arm to eliminate caster angle, but your arms are fine, the new gives you more steering. I run -2 deg of camber on most tracks, and 1 deg of toe out.
Race Director: On the steering plate, I designed a new one (Dremel) about 3 months ago, and we will be coming out with it soon.
JZ
Race Director: On the steering plate, I designed a new one (Dremel) about 3 months ago, and we will be coming out with it soon.
JZ
CVJ Problem...
So I started taking the front end appart to do the CVJ work... my front right (passengers side) is INCREDIBLY stiff and hard to pivot from side to side when you are looking at the pin bolt on top. My other one moves so easily and smoothly... there must be something wrong with it. What now? Is this normal, or will this work itself out? It is very stiff. It's still smooth, but so stiff. Any suggestions? God, I just want to fire it up and have fun with it.
So I started taking the front end appart to do the CVJ work... my front right (passengers side) is INCREDIBLY stiff and hard to pivot from side to side when you are looking at the pin bolt on top. My other one moves so easily and smoothly... there must be something wrong with it. What now? Is this normal, or will this work itself out? It is very stiff. It's still smooth, but so stiff. Any suggestions? God, I just want to fire it up and have fun with it.
WA2Fast: Trust me it will be fun, this is just maintenance you want to do in any car. Remember you have a 7 pound car that vibrates a lot. At any rate, make sure you don't have too much loctite in there. If it is a bit stiff, it will break in so don't worry about it. Let me know how it goes. Enjoy.
JZ
JZ
Alright, thanx for the confidence, it helps, just got kind of frusterated for a second (the feeling of, should have just left it alone). The good news is that I don't need any shims in the front diff... there is about 1mm (if that) of play in one of the sides... little bit less than that on the other. The only play that there is seems to be "o-ring squish" if you know what I mean, so unless you say otherwise, I really think it's okay... I took it all appart, played with it, topped it back off (to the correct level) with more 5000 fluid and put it back together, it meshes nice and is smooth... this IS correct isn't it? Thanx again Jose, you really have been a huge help, both of you guys.
Another quick stupid question... when Roger was giving me directions (we were both looking in our manuals and he was telling me which screws to take out to make it easier), he said to loosen the front swaybar screws and slip it out of that slot... uh... what front swaybar? I see it in the book and see where the screw holes and slot are... but there isn't any swaybar on my car... is this normal?
Also, the CVJ is so stiff that when it's all back together, if the wheel is turned at all, it will lock that side of the diff and spin the rest of the driveline. This can't be normal... I honestly didn't put too much locktite on it.. I checked and it is actually really clean.
Another quick stupid question... when Roger was giving me directions (we were both looking in our manuals and he was telling me which screws to take out to make it easier), he said to loosen the front swaybar screws and slip it out of that slot... uh... what front swaybar? I see it in the book and see where the screw holes and slot are... but there isn't any swaybar on my car... is this normal?
Also, the CVJ is so stiff that when it's all back together, if the wheel is turned at all, it will lock that side of the diff and spin the rest of the driveline. This can't be normal... I honestly didn't put too much locktite on it.. I checked and it is actually really clean.
SparkyMaxx
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My 2 Cents
Hey Guys, Just thought I would throw my 2 cents into this thing. I have not posted in a while but have been following along.
Way2fast Congrats on getting the Swift... You will Love It.
The Sway bar that HP was refering to is the Rear There is a front available to help(change) handling but it is an aftermarket addition that you purchase from PRP.
The Servo. I contacted Airtronics because mine had stripped gears. While talking with them they informed me that I could trade in the servo for a different one for 1/2 the cost of retail. I thought that was a good deal. Mine is still in route to them before the trade can be completed. I mailed it Tuesday. I'll post what I end up getting as a replacement but the Highspeed Digital Metal gear servos from Airtronics are said to be top notch. I would try them first and see if you can get something similar. Flat out get a metal gear with no less that 100 OZ if not more.
What Airtronics servo would the experts recommend? Zayas, HP?
CVJ's I am not sure why maybe due to the angle you have to put into the CVJ when articulating the screw. But when your finished they are VERY VERY Stiff. I have done mine twice and the front left is alway stiff as can be when I am done adjusting. It loosens over time (1 good run). No fear. Just keep an eye on it with the standard servo it will increase the chance for stripping when turning.
:idea: HP How are those diffs comming sir? Looking forward to some pro equipment when all is completed. Did you dig into them at all and find any problems? E-mail me when you have a moment. Do ya have any pictures of your new sign you built to post?
Way2Fast Your looking at the best customer service I have seen with an RC company. Let them work through your problems with you and you'll be running before you know it. Where else do you get all the PRO help from the experts right at your finger tips... Kudos To PRP. :breakdown
Hey Guys, Just thought I would throw my 2 cents into this thing. I have not posted in a while but have been following along.
Way2fast Congrats on getting the Swift... You will Love It.
The Sway bar that HP was refering to is the Rear There is a front available to help(change) handling but it is an aftermarket addition that you purchase from PRP.
The Servo. I contacted Airtronics because mine had stripped gears. While talking with them they informed me that I could trade in the servo for a different one for 1/2 the cost of retail. I thought that was a good deal. Mine is still in route to them before the trade can be completed. I mailed it Tuesday. I'll post what I end up getting as a replacement but the Highspeed Digital Metal gear servos from Airtronics are said to be top notch. I would try them first and see if you can get something similar. Flat out get a metal gear with no less that 100 OZ if not more.
What Airtronics servo would the experts recommend? Zayas, HP?
CVJ's I am not sure why maybe due to the angle you have to put into the CVJ when articulating the screw. But when your finished they are VERY VERY Stiff. I have done mine twice and the front left is alway stiff as can be when I am done adjusting. It loosens over time (1 good run). No fear. Just keep an eye on it with the standard servo it will increase the chance for stripping when turning.
:idea: HP How are those diffs comming sir? Looking forward to some pro equipment when all is completed. Did you dig into them at all and find any problems? E-mail me when you have a moment. Do ya have any pictures of your new sign you built to post?
Way2Fast Your looking at the best customer service I have seen with an RC company. Let them work through your problems with you and you'll be running before you know it. Where else do you get all the PRO help from the experts right at your finger tips... Kudos To PRP. :breakdown