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PRP Swift

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Smiffy said:
i have a hump pack, all sorted. on that front

i can't make my mind up on the servos, i had a look at the two servos u said. they seem good, i noticed there are a couple from Bluebird, in a nice purple case, anyone know what they are like?

BMS631MG Bluebird
Super Speed Metal Gear Servo

BMS620MG Bluebird
Hi Torque Metal Gear Servo
Click to expand...

The hi- torque servo looks good on paper, stronger (140 oz/in) and faster (0.13s) than the HS645MG and about the same price too.

The hi-speed is a bit weedy at 85 oz/in and looking at ModelSportUK's pricing I can't see why they feel justified in charging £5 more than the hi-torque version. Just about every manufacturer produces their RC car servos in pairs (hi-speed and hi-torque). The same motor is geared differently to favour torque or speed as required and usually there is no price difference between the two.

I'm tempted to try the hi-torque version but they are new on the market and reliability is yet to be proved.
 
Cameron, I just picked up the latest issue of RC Car and read the small article about the Swift STR. Very nice!! Are there still plans on a conversion kit? I got the impression from the article that the STR will be offered as a complete vehicle.
 
Last edited:
could someone tell me the general engine settings for basic swift engine that comes with it, cheers
 
Smiffy said:
could someone tell me the general engine settings for basic swift engine that comes with it, cheers
Click to expand...

Factory settings are: Highend needle from bottom ------> 4.0 turns out
Lowend needle from bottom -------> 3.0 turns out
 
I bought my Swift December 2003. After shelving it in the meantime after replacing several parts (CVJ pins, CVJ's, Outdrives, etc.) it still remains in the sheves for the past nine (9) months now. I AM STILL WAITING FOR THE NEW HARDENED OUTDRIVES TO COME OUT. I hope I don't get to wait for the 1st anniversary to get the outdrives.

In the meantime, I've been running a Kyosho Kanai 3 in our local races.
 
Anyone Modify New PRP Front Upper Arms?

I was just curious if anyone had modified PRP Front Upper Arms to reduce the castor? I know people have modified Mugen arms, but I was going to cut about 4 mm off the leading edge on the sleeve and use spacers to make up the difference on the back edge.
 
i just ordered the mugen arms. if you cut anything off the stock arms it will weaken them and they may rub the shocks. i think ace hobbies has the new prp arms listed now which reduce caster.
 
CorradoPsi said:
i just ordered the mugen arms. if you cut anything off the stock arms it will weaken them and they may rub the shocks. i think ace hobbies has the new prp arms listed now which reduce caster.
Click to expand...

Yups, here are the part numbers:

1) New upper front arms: 11105P
2) New front bumber: 11111P

any part that ends with the letter " P " is considered a part off of the swift pro kit.
 
Thanks for the info. I'll order the new ones. Does anyone know the exact angle measurements of the old arms and the new arms?
 
22.11579* not really. but its improved, we know that at least, and they are a direct bolt on.
 
ATTN: UK Swift owners

Sorry if this is old news for some of you, but Schumacher have recently (OK, it was two months ago, I know...) updated their website and Swift parts can now be ordered online, including most of the new "upgraded" parts.

Cameron/Roger: What's the rationale behind the "upgraded" diff housing, crown wheel and pinion set?
 
The new ring and pinion are a different, even more durable material, less prone to losing teeth. The factory made some of the new gears a bit thicker, so that necessitated changing the diff housing too. Because these new parts look identical to the old ones without a set of calipers, I requested that all the new parts be marked with a "P" for Pro, but that remains to be seen. You can't use the old gears with the new housing. Rationale for changing the design? I don't see any! I guess it's better if they're more durable, of cours.e
 
wagnerov said:
The new ring and pinion are a different, even more durable material, less prone to losing teeth. The factory made some of the new gears a bit thicker, so that necessitated changing the diff housing too. Because these new parts look identical to the old ones without a set of calipers, I requested that all the new parts be marked with a "P" for Pro, but that remains to be seen. You can't use the old gears with the new housing. Rationale for changing the design? I don't see any! I guess it's better if they're more durable, of cours.e
Click to expand...

Thanks Cam. Please let us know when the hardened outdrives are available.
 
I am running the stock engine in my swift. Has anybody replaced the standard pullstart with a 'Jump Start' system?

If you have, what part numbers did you use and where did you get them from?

More importantly, was it a succesfull upgrade?
 
JamesColclough88 said:
I am running the stock engine in my swift. Has anybody replaced the standard pullstart with a 'Jump Start' system?

If you have, what part numbers did you use and where did you get them from?

More importantly, was it a succesfull upgrade?
Click to expand...

I acquired a used SH engine which has a Rotostart fitted, I think it is the OFNA Rotostart for Force/Picco engines.

The Rotostart is a direct fit onto the back plate on the Swift's SH engine, allthough the SH back plate would benefit from an extra hole drilling for the fourth mounting screw (the SH pullstart is fixed with only three screws).

The previous owner used his Savage Rotostart starter to start the engine. I haven't tried it yet as I don't have a suitable starter shaft. I have an OFNA shaft on order which I intend to use in a cordless drill, but I can't see why the HPI/HotBodies one would not work.
 
I'm running a roto-start with my swift and will never go back to a pull start. But, I did have problems fitting it to the engine. I did not have access to the correct adapter plate, and the one that came with the roto-start was not deep enough to fit on the hexagonal starter nut on the SH engine. So I made a 1/4 inch spacer that fits between the engine and the roto-start back plate, which worked perfectly until I tried to re-install the engine. With the new back plate and spacer, the back of the engine extented over the milled out section of the chassis where the engine is supposed to sit. I had already dremeled out about another 1/2 inch back there for a Sullivan Tiger Drive and I didn't really want to remove more metal from that area, so I used some small washers between the engine and the engine mount to raise the roto-start plate high enough to rest on the chassis.

There's supposed to be a roto-start plate for the SH engines, but I haven't tried it. Its ofna part number 50010. Has anyone used this on the SH .21 engines?
 
Thanks for your info on the roto-start for the SH engine. I have just ordered the Ofna rotostart, once I've received that and fitted it I will let you know how well it works. It will arrive here in about 1 week.
 

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