Proper full RC breakin procedure

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Gummybear13

RCTalk Racer
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  1. Bashing
Hello everyone! I figured since this is my first project ever that I would post my questions here.

I have read the FAQ and a few dozen post on motor break-in and have read that most guys check for loose screws and such, but what I want to know is when you buy a brand new Nitro what is the order that you check it over and what extra care or mods do you implement right away?
I read somewhere to use permatex copper sealant and reseal the engine with it to correct leaks from the factory. any other good advice like that?
I have bought red locktite for the loose screw already.

Also What is the best method for motor break in? it seems like there is a dozen ways and every way is the best....I guess a better question is what is the most commonly used technique?
 
Thread moved to appropriate forum.
 
Don't use red locktite!!!!!!!!!! You'll never get the bolts back out with out heating them up. Use the blue stuff. Make sure it's removable locktite. Follow the heat cycle method, right above your post in this forum.
 
Threebond 1211 sealant is the best choice for sealing an engine as it is 100% fuel proof, the permatex will work but is not fuel proof and can peel off over time creating a chance for leakage.
 
When I get a new Nitro engine I do the following:

1. Unwrap it and check it out externally.
2. Pull everything apart and check the internals for any shavings or manufacturing issues
3. Correct any issues found
4. Flush out everything in clean Nitro Fuel
5. Re-assemble it and seal the backplate and carb neck with Ultra Copper RTV Sealant
6. Pre-heat it
7. Heat cycle it for @ 4 tanks
8. Drop it on the ground and drive slow for a few more tanks
9. Head to the track to get a base tune and some more fuel through it
10. Go racing

:)
 
Well I am glad someone corrected me on the red locktite...that could have been bad. LOL

threebond 1211, check. And heat cycle, check.

Thanks moto for a good check list to follow it will be a big help in the future.

Anyone else have any suggestions? I just want to make sure I am doing everything right the first time. and thanks to the members who have posted already, much appreciated.

qiuck up date, I did buy the blue 242 removable thread locker, its just red in color.
 
LockTite 242 is a removable thread locker that I use on all of my metal to metal connections. Another Item to add to your toolkit is a good thermometer so you can take the engine temp readings at the glow plug so you don't overheat it.
 
any suggestions on the thermometer?
I am guessing a digital Infrared one would be ideal... but what brand?
 
The Duratrax Flashpoint is a decent temp gun because you have the ability of calibrating it. Different materials will give of different emissions which will affect the reading of the gun, sometimes up to 40*F off from a polished aluminum head to a black anodized. If you put the head, button and plug as a set into your oven at 275F, let it sit for 10-15 minutes, pull it out and temp it, then adjust the EM setting and repeat. Continue with this until the setting is very close to the same, you will be pretty safe up to that point within +/- 10F.

http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXEMG5&P=ML
 
i like onboard tempature meter, their a lot eaiser.
 
I bought a Bosch IR thermometer from Lowes, $40 and now I know the temperature of my Tmaxx and EVERYTHING else I own!
 
Don't use red locktite!!!!!!!!!! You'll never get the bolts back out with out heating them up. Use the blue stuff. Make sure it's removable locktite. Follow the heat cycle method, right above your post in this forum.

I use medium blue and still twisted an allen wrench like a twizzlers lol so red is no bueno

any suggestions on the thermometer?
I am guessing a digital Infrared one would be ideal... but what brand?

I use HPIs version of the temp reader for both nitro and electric components that get toasty, you could check it out
 
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