Hey I dont know a thing about props, I'm looking for some one to explain how to choose the right prop and ecplain diff things like pitch and sharpining the props and polishing them and different materials like which are the best like copper or Stainless steel. I dont know a thing about props or how to choose the best one for a rig.
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Prop 101?
- Thread starter duramax47
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Ron Olson
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That link isn't going to do you a lot of good.
Let's take Octura props as they're probably the most popular brand out there. An "X" series prop has little to no lifting characteristics which is what you want for Deep-Vee, outboards or catamarans. Their numbering system is done in millimeters. OK, an example: an X-637 has a diameter of 37mm and the pitch is 1.6 times the diameter. Got that?
OK, next, they have props that are considered lifting props which are best used on hydroplanes which also include outriggers. Using the almost same number as above, it would be a 1637 (no such prop BTW) but the 16, 17, 19 or whatever numbers is the first 2 shows that it's a "lifter". These are progressive pitched props. Think of them as when you're swimming and your hands are cupped instead of flat.
Prather makes only non-lifting props and use a completely different numbering system which I can't tell you how they get them. All of their props have a constant pitch which means that it doesn't change across the blades.
As far as what the prop is made of, stainless steel is harder to work with as far as sharpening and balancing but holds an edge better. Beryllium Copper props are easier to work with and on BUT the dust is toxic so believe me when I tell you to wear at the minimum a paper dust filter when working on them.
Aquacraft has a line of Grimracer props that you can use pretty much right out of the package which are very well balanced and fairly sharp.
Normally I'd ask you what boat or boats that you need props for. What sometimes I can do is recommend a few for you to try out as what might work great on my boat might not work so hot on yours as this is a place where things like altitude and even what's in the water that you run in could make a difference.
OK, want to try to do some yourself? Get a prop balancer as you're going to need one. One of the easiest to get and works almost too well is the Top-Flite magnetic balancer for around $20.00. Sure, it's made mainly for planes but works fantastically for boat props too. Next is some small flat files. Not too small like Jeweler's files but some that can get around the prop easily. Even a triangular file comes in handy near the hub or in hard to get to places. Go around the prop and remove any and all molding flash. Do not round off the trailing edge as you want that square but clean of flashing. Sharpen the leading edge of the prop only going in about 1/4" or so then blend it in a little. Once you've got the blades close, start checking your balance. One blade is going to be heavy as with Octura props I have yet to see one that isn't out of the package. Work on the face side which is the side that will be facing the boat or if you will, the drive dog side. On the heavy blade you can lightly file or sand material off until you get it where you want it. If it's a sport boat I wouldn't drive myself insane trying to get it perfect but where it's decently balanced. Wet sand it with a fine grit to give it a little shine under running water or in a pail. Dremel tools work fast but then again they're tossing toxic dust and can qickly ruin a good edge.
It isn't as scary as it sounds to work on props, do one and the rest are a piece of cake. There are people around that will do the dirty work for you but expect to pay at least $10.00 a blade plus the coat of the prop.
I just had a couple of props custom-made for my gas boats. One was over $70.00 and the other was $83.00, I just didn't want to hassle with them.
Let's take Octura props as they're probably the most popular brand out there. An "X" series prop has little to no lifting characteristics which is what you want for Deep-Vee, outboards or catamarans. Their numbering system is done in millimeters. OK, an example: an X-637 has a diameter of 37mm and the pitch is 1.6 times the diameter. Got that?
OK, next, they have props that are considered lifting props which are best used on hydroplanes which also include outriggers. Using the almost same number as above, it would be a 1637 (no such prop BTW) but the 16, 17, 19 or whatever numbers is the first 2 shows that it's a "lifter". These are progressive pitched props. Think of them as when you're swimming and your hands are cupped instead of flat.
Prather makes only non-lifting props and use a completely different numbering system which I can't tell you how they get them. All of their props have a constant pitch which means that it doesn't change across the blades.
As far as what the prop is made of, stainless steel is harder to work with as far as sharpening and balancing but holds an edge better. Beryllium Copper props are easier to work with and on BUT the dust is toxic so believe me when I tell you to wear at the minimum a paper dust filter when working on them.
Aquacraft has a line of Grimracer props that you can use pretty much right out of the package which are very well balanced and fairly sharp.
Normally I'd ask you what boat or boats that you need props for. What sometimes I can do is recommend a few for you to try out as what might work great on my boat might not work so hot on yours as this is a place where things like altitude and even what's in the water that you run in could make a difference.
OK, want to try to do some yourself? Get a prop balancer as you're going to need one. One of the easiest to get and works almost too well is the Top-Flite magnetic balancer for around $20.00. Sure, it's made mainly for planes but works fantastically for boat props too. Next is some small flat files. Not too small like Jeweler's files but some that can get around the prop easily. Even a triangular file comes in handy near the hub or in hard to get to places. Go around the prop and remove any and all molding flash. Do not round off the trailing edge as you want that square but clean of flashing. Sharpen the leading edge of the prop only going in about 1/4" or so then blend it in a little. Once you've got the blades close, start checking your balance. One blade is going to be heavy as with Octura props I have yet to see one that isn't out of the package. Work on the face side which is the side that will be facing the boat or if you will, the drive dog side. On the heavy blade you can lightly file or sand material off until you get it where you want it. If it's a sport boat I wouldn't drive myself insane trying to get it perfect but where it's decently balanced. Wet sand it with a fine grit to give it a little shine under running water or in a pail. Dremel tools work fast but then again they're tossing toxic dust and can qickly ruin a good edge.
It isn't as scary as it sounds to work on props, do one and the rest are a piece of cake. There are people around that will do the dirty work for you but expect to pay at least $10.00 a blade plus the coat of the prop.
I just had a couple of props custom-made for my gas boats. One was over $70.00 and the other was $83.00, I just didn't want to hassle with them.