Project Winter Savage!

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pitbull14218

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I figured since i would share my semi-build with everyone. So to start things off, Last year I bought a Savage 25 Off of ebay. Its my first Nitro RC and I'm a bit of a noob. It ran ok when i first got it. I used it in the winter got it all wet and dirty and had a blast. The Body it came with was cracked up pretty good it was just the stock body. I wrapped the head because i did some research, but didnt water proof my servo's for the winter bashing it recieved, I only ran the truck about 5 times. I also had a problem with my throttle/brake Horn, i dont know if the servo saver got dirty along with the horn, but it has a problem going full throttle, so plans are to get new linkage servo's, and throttle horn along with servo saver.

All the work i put into it so far would be I bought a new body painted it.

2 Spur gear's i put in, 1st one i put in i did lock tight the engine mount bolts some how it must of moved still after a few bash's.

So i put it away all summer for my #1 Hobby which would be my Trans Am WS6 i drove around alot and had some good times. Now I'm pulling it in the garage, and out comes the Savage again and it is now a little project when i have money.....

Body painted, spur gear installed, Now all thats left is to get some money together and Buy the parts i need, unfortunitly this isnt my main hobby so it will take sometime to finish, this is just gonna be a basher, I'm going to be cheap with it.

Parts list so far :

#1 Servo's - throttle/brake, and steering.

#2 New Throttle Linkage http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXDLH2&P=K

#3 New Horn and servo saver with cam(dont no what that means but i know its an upgrade from stock) http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXJSS6&P=K

#4 Motor Mount Bolts http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=HPIC2792&P=K

That should be it to get it running good.

I took the Motor out to do the spur gear and cleaned it up a bit i also noticed this

Untitled-1.jpg


Everything with the truck was running good, so maybe this is fine, but i figured i would see what people think.

Now some more pics, sorry for quality. Here is the 25's Power plant, lets hope it runs well when I'm finished.

IMG_0376.jpg


IMG_0375.jpg


Its should like some what like this when complete.
IMG_0377.jpg


IMG_0345.jpg


enjoy, too bad i have to wait til i get paid this upcoming thursday to buy all the parts i need.
 

olds97_lss

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I took the Motor out to do the spur gear and cleaned it up a bit i also noticed this
Untitled-1.jpg
You should be able to tighten that screw all the way down if you shim it properly. The screw should not be loose at all or it will work it's way out and eat your spur, lose bearings and maybe mess up the bell.

A properly shimmed bell should have a "tick" of in/out play if you pull/push on the bell. Any less and it doesn't allow for heat expansion and overly tight chews up bearings. Any more and the bell moves around too much on the spur/bearings/shoes and causes undesirable wear.
 

pitbull14218

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You should be able to tighten that screw all the way down if you shim it properly. The screw should not be loose at all or it will work it's way out and eat your spur, lose bearings and maybe mess up the bell.

A properly shimmed bell should have a "tick" of in/out play if you pull/push on the bell. Any less and it doesn't allow for heat expansion and overly tight chews up bearings. Any more and the bell moves around too much on the spur/bearings/shoes and causes undesirable wear.
Well it seems to be tight, i didnt use too much force but i couldnt get it to move in tighter. There is play in and out on the shaft, very little about 1/8th of an inch i would guess.

This is pulling it out away from the motor.
IMG_0380.jpg


This is pushed towards the motor.
IMG_0382.jpg



Does this seem normal? I never touched the screw since i owned the truck, i barely used to truck.
 

olds97_lss

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That's more than twice the play you need. I'd pick up a shim hit and set it better if it were mine.

I buy this kit when I need to work on CB shimming:
http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&W=000426515&I=LXNT03&P=K

It would be a good idea to shim it with steel shims instead of the brass one that comes on the old savages. It wears down and the filings get in the CB bearing. I have no idea why they used brass for that.
 

pitbull14218

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That's more than twice the play you need. I'd pick up a shim hit and set it better if it were mine.

I buy this kit when I need to work on CB shimming:
http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&W=000426515&I=LXNT03&P=K

It would be a good idea to shim it with steel shims instead of the brass one that comes on the old savages. It wears down and the filings get in the CB bearing. I have no idea why they used brass for that.
As long as those shims are the correct ones for my Savage 25 ill add them to my Cart since mine as well order it all at once. Should i clean anything while this is apart?

Here's some pics let me know how everything looks. Should i Lock tight this screw when I'm done shimming it?

IMG_0389.jpg


IMG_0388.jpg


IMG_0387.jpg


IMG_0385.jpg


IMG_0384.jpg
 

olds97_lss

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The shim kit will work with pretty much any engine. Not sure if BB's have the same size crank, but regardless, your not working on a SB, so the kit should have enough bits in it to get you shimmed up proper.

Locktite, yes, only blue is needed.

A drop of light oil (single small drop) on the bearing races to lube them up. CB bearings have a brutal life of excess heat. You have to keep an eye on them, but don't over oil or it flings off and onto your shoes causing the clutch to slip.

Find some medium/high grit sand paper and run it inside the surface of the bell where the shoes rub to clean it up. Do the same to the face of the shoes where they make contact with the bell.

That's just stuff I do anytime I pull an engine off a rig just to keep things tip top.
 

pitbull14218

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Well i added the shimes to the cart, now what do you mean only blue lock tight is needed? Is there a paticular lock tight i should have boughten? Well i do have blue medium threadlocker so is that the correct stuff?
 

olds97_lss

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Yep. That's the right stuff. However, I find that the blue locktite paste works well and the gel works even better. Both hold better than the liquid stuff, but not so much that you can't get it apart.

The stuff I was hinting at not using is the red stuff. Usually requires a torch to get that stuff loose.
 

pitbull14218

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After using red loctite on my first nitro's engine screws, a grinder served me well!
Wow, thats crazy, well good thing i dont have the red stuff, it was hard enough getting the stripped motor mount bolts out, i had to use pliers for the one. Thats why new ones are on my list.... I dont know who owned this truck before me!!! lol but the motor seems to have a decent amount of compression, i wouldnt know how to messure it, but i spin the flywheel or whatever its called on these nitro engines, and its not hard but it deffinitly isnt easy, idk i can feel when the piston is at the top because it gets harder to turn the crank.
 

pitbull14218

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Update:

I got all my parts installed them, the servo's worked ok but they were stock servo's so they are kinda weak. I havent had it running in like a year, so it was giving me trouble yesterday. I kept turning it over it wouldnt start so I pulled the glow plug, it wasn't getting fuel. I then removed the needles while the carb was still on the motor, and i cleaned them with Q-tips then reinstalled them and it fired right up! I drove it a little and its starting to look good for the motor.

It was 9 Degrees outside i wrapped the head with ALOT of Aluminum Foil and i got it up to 230 Degrees, and it ran decent, but it wouldnt shift into second, i held it in the air and floored it and the tires didnt spin fast enough to expand so i figure its not reving too high yet thats why it didnt shift up. But its doing ok hopefully i can get the tune down today or another day due to the weather.
 
Last edited:

olds97_lss

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Well, in first gear, the probably won't spin fast enough to expand much. You don't see that until your well into 2nd gear speeds, depending on your CB/spur combo.

May need to adjust the trans a bit. If your getting 230 out of it, it should be warmed up enough to hit second.

Might also want to check your slipper setting. If it's slipping, it won't shift into second very well either.
 

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