Possible Fault with new HobbyKing ESC?

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hangar_rat

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I'm currently partway through the assembly and set up of the HobbyKing Paramotor kit - it all seems OK - I've managed to get the servos working and mixed OK etc but I'm having trouble with the ESC and specifically the output that can be used to drive the RX and other servos. When I check the pins in the connector to the RX with a multimeter they don't seem right in that I don't seem to get +5.5V where I expect (though one of the pins is at 5.5V). I'm wondering if it was miswired new or is faulty or something else - does anyone know how I can check it out. This is it...

ESC.JPG


Would be really grateful for some help - I'm using the stock HK motor and I bought an Orange TX and RX which bonds OK and works as expected. I've also got a Rhino 6200mAh 4S 50C Lipo Battery Pack W/XT90. Any help gratefully received by this newbie!
 

StonerRC365

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There's only one wire that carries the power.
Black: ground
Red: power
White: signal
Did you program it? And calibrate it as well?
what type of plane or heli is this 50A going in? How many servos are you running in your RC? I mean the 5.5v doesn't seem very strong/high
To be running every thing you got going on...what type servos you running and the specs volts needed to power them? I mean 5.5v is basically the lowest output there is I I believe. That esc's BEC isn't programmable correct? So it's only at 5.5v
 
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hangar_rat

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There's only one wire that carries the power.
Black: ground
Red: power
White: signal
Did you program it? And calibrate it as well?
what type of plane or heli is this 50A going in? How many servos are you running in your RC? I mean the 5.5v doesn't seem very strong/high
To be running every thing you got going on...what type servos you running and the specs volts needed to power them? I mean 5.5v is basically the lowest output there is I I believe. That esc's BEC isn't programmable correct? So it's only at 5.5v
Thank you for that. I've not got as far as programming or calibration - it when connected to the LIPO it clearly generates a 5.5V output (though I think on the wrong wire). I'll get some time to look at it again on Monday. The aircraft is a HK paramotor - 2x servos to control the risers. Later I intend to fit a 3rd servo and a variable pitch prop but not yet.

Link to the HK paramotor... https://hobbyking.com/en_us/hobbykingtm-high-performance-paramotor-pnf-2250mm.html

Thank you for your help!
 

tntpoof

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calibration is require to run with radio. the bec that the esc is providing should be there with calibration or not..If your not seeing the 5.4 what are you seeing? as in voltage? if its not close to 5.5 the the bec in the esc has issues.. Id pull the center rx wire(red 1) and if you have 1 or might have to but or make a rx battery... then plug into open rx socket....id contact whomever made or sold u that esc and see if a working 1 can be warranted to you
 

StonerRC365

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Need to read the OP. He's getting the 5.5v. but not where he was thinking it would be.. MAN.
The +5.5V should be on the red wire in the middle of the plug
Yes sir unless he has the different colored wires. But either way it should be the middle wire for the power...
Thank you for that. I've not got as far as programming or calibration - it when connected to the LIPO it clearly generates a 5.5V output (though I think on the wrong wire). I'll get some time to look at it again on Monday. The aircraft is a HK paramotor - 2x servos to control the risers. Later I intend to fit a 3rd servo and a variable pitch prop but not yet.

Link to the HK paramotor... https://hobbyking.com/en_us/hobbykingtm-high-performance-paramotor-pnf-2250mm.html

Thank you for your help!
The wrong wire? Now that would be weird. The power should come threw the middle wire no matter what color it is bud...👍👍
 

hangar_rat

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Thanks for your help everyone - I'm away at the in-laws 'til Monday - I'll investigate and follow up on Monday with a message (or messages) here. :)
 

hangar_rat

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Hi All, I've had a play today to see if I can work out what is going on.

I've removed the ESC from the model and got it on the bench as shown...
1637677454287.png


The battery that I used to power it all up is this one:
1637677498153.png


According to fluke measurements the LIPO output is 14.96V

The non motor outputs of the ESC are as follows when measured:

Red to Brown: 0V
Red to Yellow: 4.99V
Yellow to Brown: 4.99V

Hence Yellow is at 4.99V and Red and Brown are both sitting at 0V

When the LIPO is unplugged I checked that the continuity through the ESC - brown and red are both have continuity with each other and with the -VE input terminal (-ve terminal of the LIPO).

I don't think that this is right at all but the spec sheet on the ESC is very poor / non existent. :-(

Any help / advice very welcome - I'm a bit lost at the moment.
 

tntpoof

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4 x 4.2=16.8 charged not the 15 or so you show.charge battery. then recalibrate esc with the correct voltage. the voltage shown is the nominal voltage not the charged voltage.
 

hangar_rat

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4 x 4.2=16.8 charged not the 15 or so you show.charge battery. then recalibrate esc with the correct voltage. the voltage shown is the nominal voltage not the charged voltage.
Do you think that might also solve what appears to be the miswire in the BEC pins - i.e. could that just be switching?
 

tntpoof

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just start .. dont go measuring voltages.. in rx plug u need a freq. positive + and a neg -
 

hangar_rat

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That's the point. The RX output from the ESC isn't correct and the RX does not power up when plugged in. RX works fine from a dedicated battery but I don't think I can just omit +ve from the ESC. Sounds like it might make all the magic come out in a brief puff of smoke to me!
 

Greywolf74

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I dont believe you're measuring the voltage correctly. You need to keep the black test probe on the brown ground wire and the use the red probe on the red wire (the power wire) and then move the red probe to the yellow signal wire while keeping the black probe on the brown ground wire to measure the signal wire voltage. The signal wire voltage can be anywhere from about 1/4V to 5V or so but were not concerned with the signal wire. As long as you have 5+V on the red wire and brown wire and some voltage on the yellow signal wire then you're ESC is not the issue. The only 2 wires we are concerned with are the red and brown though. I would remeasure those two. If you still get 0V with the ESC plugged in to a battery and turned on then theres something wrong with the ESCs power wire. You could get around this by using an External BEC as long as the signal wire has voltage.

Are you sure you plugged the ESC in to the receiver facing the proper direction?
 

hangar_rat

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Hobbyking are sending another - they think it is broken based on no voltage on RED and 0 ohm resistance between RED and BROWN. Thanks for your help all.
 

hangar_rat

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I'm going to try disconnecting the RED and powering the RX from a different battery - see if that works while I wait for the replacement. I cut off the heatshrink - nothing obviously burnt out / missing / bridged.
 

tntpoof

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there's a little tab on the rx plug you can use a straight pin to pry it up to remove barrel while still attached to wire the tap up.
but why wait until new esc comes in..
 

hangar_rat

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Success with that on the bench. Got the prop spinning speed controlled from the RX through what appeared to be the whole range. Got good beeps from the ESC indicating that it was configured. Will now verify that I've got the right settings and put new heatshrink back on the ESC! Thanks for your help @tntpoof , @Greywolf74 and @StonerRC365 - I think we got there in the end!
 
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