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ntc3 QUESTIONSSS

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I'm not sure - if u will be bashing mostly, and NOT racing SANCTIOINED events, then feel free to look at just about any good engine. if u are racing, make sure it is legal. since this will mostly be a basher for u - reliability should be more important than speed! I would recommend a rear exhaust though, assuming u are planning on getting a starter box, which is a must anyway. I would recommend these engines in this order: OS .12TR - Mugen MT12 - Fantom FR.12RE

As for hop ups - if u are getting the kit - there really isnt anything out there to hop up - it comes perfect as is. the hopups for the NTC3 are pretty much just cosmetic
 
don't wasye you time andmoney on the aluminum parts they sucK!!! UNLESS you are going show.
 
What I’m looking for in the engine department is like the picco in the savage but for the ntc3 just pure nuts.
 
well - .12 mills are a lil more fickle than .21's but if u have plenty of experience, and really know how to tune - then nothing can out perform the Nova Rossi outlaw turbo. It aint cheap, but it is just mindblowing fast. Produces 1.6hp at 42,000rpm and lists for 499.00 - I've seen it for about 325.00 though. here is a pic.
trig9296.jpg
 
is this the one the o.s. carb will fit on? the one kwong was talking about if so what size carb is that.
 
i have no idea what size the carb is - but i know its a 3 needle variety with a composite interior. Tower hobbies sells it, trinity imports it.
 
no - its a modified pilot shaft. u have to cut, thread and shim it to fit. not an easy task. its available in a regular shadt too, but its on back order from Italy

Jon = PM me and i will show u some pics of each if u are confused
 
I think I got it ..thanks NA I think I can picture it. just a sg shaft after you cut it.
 
imnotsure - that is an awesome car - but not good for anything other than the race track. plus - its a 235mm car - so u can't race it in any races that arnt pro level.
 
I agree I have seen seasoned drivers race it but you should get better at touring cars before you jump on a car like that..unless you are than go for it! But remember what NA said about it's size!!!
 
jon2 - what u probably saw was the serpent 705. that is the 835. i have yet to ever actually see a 235mm 1/10scale race. the winter nationals down in sarasota had a 235mm open class - but thats the first one i ever heard of. because its an open class - anything goes. u will see that almost everyone racing will be using the 835 chassis with EXTREMELY modified .15 and .12 engines. most of the drivers will have over 2000.00 invested in the engines alone. its known as the rich mans class.
 
oh so this is the new model huh? Sorry NA. I think the term for that class is NOT MY CLASS! I would rather spend that much money else where. I have seen cars tuned really well but most of them have spent less. I guess it all depends on involved you are with it!!!
 
i don't think I'll be gettin one the parts are not to easy to find so i'm going to keep looking. The ntc3 is alot less $$ .just want to find a engine that i want first.
 
Ok I got a question.. Since I have to wait to get the touring car set up guide by xxx-main I am kinad stumped. On my NTC3 the rear CVD's seem to be barely on the cup. The "stubbies" are in enought to turn the shaft but it doesn't look very solid. What can I do? I tried screwing the ball end in but that got me to have an extreme Camber problem which led me to a bad toe in...I don't want to lose power if this is not right! HELP!!!
 
this is normal, jon2. nothing to worry about. if it makes u feel better, u can insert a few rubber grommets into the drive cup to create a better connection, but this is not necessary
 
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