Nitro RC Beginners Guide

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Tools Needed
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Standard and metric hex wrenches - Buy
Their are 8 sizes of hex wrenches every RC toolbox should have as they are going to be your most common sizes found on most any nitro RC vehicle. The Standard sizes are going to be: 1/2", 1/16", 5/64", and 3/32". For Metric sizes you'll want to make sure you have 1.5mm, 2.0mm, 2.5mm, and 3.0mm.

I would also recommend getting hex wrenches with ball ends such as shown below. With a ball end hex wrench you can easily tighten and loosen hex screws at an angle which is very helpful getting into those hard to reach places.

hex-ball-wrench.jpg


Standard and metric nut drivers - Buy
Like hex wrenches there are 8 sized of nut drivers I'd also recommend having in any RC toolbox. Standard sizes should include 3/16", 11/32", 1/4", and 5/16". For Metric sizes, 4mm, 5mm, 5.5mm, and 7mm.

Flat-head and philips screw drivers - Buy
For the screw drivers the only thing fancy I'd suggest getting is hardened tipped screw drivers. A few regular sized and small flat-head and philips screw drivers will do just fine.

Needle nose pliers - Buy
A small needle nose pliers will be sufficient for a beginners toolbox. One with a side cut would be even better as they become very useful in cutting parts off part trees when putting together a RC kit.

Razor blade or hobby knife - Buy
You'll be cutting things like RC bodies, fuel line, parts of part trees, so always having a sharp razor near by will be a nice help.

Fuel bottle - Buy
While you could always carry around your gallon of fuel and a funnel with you to your bash or race trace, a fuel bottle will make filling your nitro RC tank easier and faster. Before going out and buying one make sure your Nitro RC vehicle doesn't already come with one.

Peak charger - Buy
I don't recommend anything less then a peak charger. A fast charging peak charger charges a battery to full capacity quickly then automatically stops charging. By detecting when the battery is fully charged or at its peak charge point, the charger then either shuts itself off or its charging rate drops down to a trickle maintaining the battery at a balanced level without overcharging.

Temperature gun - Buy
This is one of those things some people forget all about, but the last thing you want to do is having to replace a $150 or more nitro engine because it over heated. Normal running temps should be around 220f - 260f degrees, using a temp gun you can easily check then adjust as needed.
 
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Gear Ratios Explained
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A couple common questions found on the boards is how to increase speed or how to increase torque. Both of these questions can be answered with gear ratios

In a nutshell to go faster, you want a lower numbered gear ratio. Your wheels will make more rotations for every engine rotation. You will sacrifice low end "punch" (acceleration) and you won’t jump off the line as fast.

To Jump off the line quicker (wheelie) you want to raise the gear ratio. Your wheels will maker fewer rotations for every engine rotation. If you want to scream off the line then raise the gear ratio, but you will sacrifice your top end speed.

Key points to remember:
A Lower numbered Ratio is actually a "Higher Ratio" and = Higher Top End, Slower Acceleration.

  • Why? Because the wheels turn at a higher rate the lower the ratio.
  • Higher Top Speed - Less chance of wheelies.
A Higher numbered Ratio is actually a "Lower Ratio" and = Quicker Acceleration, Lower Top end

  • Why? Because the wheels turn at a lower rate the higher the ratio.
  • Lower Top Speed - More chance of wheelies, better low speed power.

How to figure out what gear ratio you are running

Take the number of teeth on you pinion gear and divide that number into the number of teeth of you spur gear - this will give you the most basic of gear ratios.

To get a more detailed gear ratio you would then multiply that by your internal gear ratio of your transmission.

Simple Example:
Lets say you have a Traxxas Revo with a 72 tooth spur gear and a 20 tooth clutch gear (pinion gear). 72 / 20 = 3.6 which means the gear ratio would be a 3.6:1 gear ratio.

Further Example:
You have a HPI RS4 MT with a 72 tooth spur gear and a 25 tooth pinion gear. The HPI RS4 MT has an internal gear ratio of 2.6. To figure the final gear ratio you would caculate it as such: 72 / 25 x 2.6 = 7.49 which means the final gear ratio would be 7.49:1 gear ratio. Which means it takes the motor to turn 7.2 time for the tire to do 1 complete rotation.


Internal Gear Ratios

Associated TC3 = 2.5
Barracuda R2/R3 = 2.4375
Ho Bao Hyper 10 elec = 2.13
HPI Micro RS4 = 1.0
HPI RS4 MT = 2.6
HPI RS4 Sport = 2 2.1
HPI Pro3 = 2.25
HPI Pro 4 = 2.4375
Kyosho mini-z = 1.0
Kyosho mini-z Monster = 5.0
RCLab (15/32) = 2.133
RCLab (15/37) = 2.466
RCLab (17/32) = 1.882
RCLab (17/37) = 2.176
Robitronic ETCV1 = 1.59
Schumacher 98/99/Axis = 2.00
Schumacher Mission/Mi2 (17T) -2.12
Schumacher Mission/Mi2 (20t) = 1.8
Tamiya F1 = 1.0
Tamiya M01 = 2.4375
Tamiya M02L = 2.4375
Tamiya M02M = 2.4375
Tamiya M03 = 3.134
Tamiya M04L = 3.134
Tamiya M04M = 3.134
Tamiya TL01 = 4.447
Tamiya TRF414M = 2.133
Tamiya TXT-1 = 12.7575
Tamiya TT01 = 2.6
Tamiya TB02 = 2.6
Tamiya TB Evo III = 2.6
Tamiya Wild Dagger = 8.321
Traxxas Spirit = 2.94
Traxxas 4-TEC = 2.1
Traxxas Stampede = 2.72
Traxxas Rustler = 2.72
Traxxas Bandit = 2.72
Traxxas Sledgehammer = 3.75
Traxxas Nitro Sport = 2.81
Traxxas Nitro Rustler = 2.81
Traxxas Nitro Stampede = 3.75
Traxxas Nitro Buggy = 2.72
Traxxas Nitro Street = 2.72
Traxxas Monster Buggy = 2.71
X-Ray standard = 2.125
X-Ray low = 1.77
Teeam Losi XXXS = 1.83
Team Losi XX = 2.1905
Team Losi XXT-CR = 2.61
Yokomo MR4 TC-SD = 2.352
Yokomo YR4 = 2.333
Yokomo YR4 64DP = 2.333
Yokomo YR4 Jtype = 2.20
Yokomo YR4II MC = 2.20
Yokomo YR4II SP = 2.333
 
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Frequently Asked Questions
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New to the hobby? You've probably got a number of questions and it's likely your questions might already be answered below in our list of the most commonly asked questions regarding nitro RC.



Question: What should I use to clean my car?

Answer: Most people use either some form of Nitro Cleaner that's available at their LHS, or you can also use Denatured Alcohol in a plastic spray bottle, commonly found at hardware and home supply stores. It's also helpful to have some source for compressed air, that way you can blow your car clean and dry right away.

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Question: How often should i clean my air filter and how should i clean it?

Answer: every 5 tanks or when it looks like it needs it and you can wash it in soapy water or with nitro fuel then reapply air filter oil.

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Question: Why is it not a good idea to wash an airfilter element?

Answer: Because you can actually wash dirt into the foam element where it will get sucked into the engine.

Remedy: Never wash foam elements, always replace.

Exception: It is okay to wash the outer foam on a two stage air filter, but never the inner.

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Question: How do i know if my engine is too hot?

Answer: There should be a nice stream of smoke coming out your exhaust. Better yet, buy a temp gun and make sure your engine is running between 220f - 260f degrees. Always run on the rich side, unless you like replacing engines.

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Question: Should I glue the tires on to the rims?

Answer: You bet, the most easiest cheapest way of getting more performance out of your tires, is by gluing them using the glue supplied by your LHS, to your rims. Hey, you may have to buy new rims for every pair of tires, but hey when you try it will be worth it.

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Question: What is the difference between kit and RTR

Answer: Kits usually come with better parts, but sometimes dont include engine and radio. RTR's compensate parts for labor, since they come assembled. an example of this is the NTC3. the kit dosn't include radio or engine, but includes aluminum threaded shocks, a two speed, and nicer tires. kits let you see how the car goes together, and helps you when you break something, since you know what does what. Many people have different opinions in this topic, so its up to you to decide.

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Question: How do I know when(/what)to buy high performance parts for my car?

Answer: Ask lots of questions from people with different views on the part/upgrade to be made.

When: Once you can out drive (often confused with not being able to) your current car setup, or if you have broken the part. Too often newbies think they have to have the best out there to do better, which is often not the case.

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Question: What is a good break-in procedure for my new engine?

Answer: OK, here goes. The first procedure is called "heat cycling", this is the most important part of break-in and almost no one does it. Start the engine and let it idle, after 1-2 minutes feel the cylinder head, you want it to be hot enough so you can't grab on to it for more than 10 seconds at the base of the head. Stop the engine, make sure the piston is at the bottom of the stroke, let it completely cool down, back to stone cold. Repeat this process at least 10 times !!! I usually dedicate the first tank of fuel to this process. It's going to take some time to do this so be patient.

Now you can take it out and run it. Open the main needle one full turn. The next 4 tanks, run at no more than 1/2 throttle and vary the speed up and down. Let it completely cool down between runs and always make sure the piston is at the bottom of the stroke while it is cooling. Try to run the engine in the 200 degree range during this period.

Now 4 more tanks running up to 3/4 throttle, run it in the same manner as before.

Now you can go wide open, make sure to run it on the rich side for another 6 tanks. Don't try to grab a lot of ponies yet. ( this is easier said than done !!)

Now you can let it rip. These engines run best at temps 220 to 240 degrees. There should always be a VISIBLE line of smoke coming from the exhaust stinger.

Good luck with your break-in. Take your time and do it right and you will be rewarded with an engine that runs stronger and lasts longer than you have ever seen.

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Question: How should i stop the engine on my car?

Answer: there are a couple ways, which are, pinching the fuel line, plugging the exhaust and stopping the flywheel with your shoe. stopping the flywheel with your thumb is the best way, since it neither floods the engine or drains it. just be sure to leave the piston at the bottom of the stroke.

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Question: What are some things I should do when I get my new car?

Answer:
Read the manual.
Double check the tightness of the screws.
Glue your tires.
Install batteries.
Make sure the body has good airflow. (ie holes cut in front and back windshields.)
Make sure the air filter is oiled and properly attached.
Check both servos (Makes sure the brake properly applies, etc)
Check your needle and throttle screws. (Even if the book says they're set right)
Check the trim on your radio. (You may set the throttle screw to the right gap but the radio trim may open it up for you so double check the trims.)
Review all material you can find on breakin (ie. the posts above)
Start PATIENTLY breaking it in.
Many people recommend using 10-20% nitro for break-ins and to stick with that fuel for the life of the engine. Special break in fuel should not be needed.

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Question: How can I check my speed?

Answer: A Radar would be nice. But a stop watch is cheaper. The method below is used by law enforcement. Its called VASCAR.
Measure off an Area. A couple hundred feet would be nice . You can measure off whatever you can but due to human reaction times, the smaller the area, the less accurate your measurement will be. Then have a friend with a timer (so you can concentrate on driving) stand at the first line and another friend on the end line. Start your car back so you can get to top speed. When it crosses the first line the timer starts. When it passes the finish, your other friend signals so the timer knows when to stop. For double checking both friends can have timers. Finally you do a little math. (After you get your car to stop The formula is (Distance in feet/Time in seconds)*0.681818. For instance say your course is 300feet and your time was 3.099 seconds. Your speed would be (300/3.099)*0.681818 = 66MPH!!!. You're all done. You may want to take several measurements and average your results. Enjoy

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Question: Where can I find information to tune my engine???

Answer: This page will help out beginners a lot when they tune their engine: Nitro Tuning Tips and Flow Chart

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Question: What's something that I can do when I get my car to prevent lost screws and broken parts?

Answer: Whether it's an RTR, or a kit, remove any screws that go into metal and apply thread lock. Some companies do this at the factory, some don't. The only way to make sure that it's done, is to do it yourself. This stops the screws from being vibrated out. I know from personal experiences, 2 lost carb screws, and 1 lost engine mount screw.

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Question: Are 2 bottles of the same fuel alike?

Answer: I broke in my NTC3 I got on a gallon jug of Blue Thunder 20% I already had. The gallon jug was maybe a little over 3/4 full when I started using it in the NTC3. It was maybe 3 months old.
That jug finally ran out and I just bought a new gallon of the stuff.

My NTC3 ran horrible on the new stuff. I never thought it was the fuel. I thought it was the 90 degree heat here.

I also decided to fire up the RC10 GT and it was not only hard to start but did the same thing the NTC3 did. Quit running while there was still fuel in the tank. Had to richen the heck out of both of them. Again, I thought it was because it was 90 degrees here. In this heat, leaning out the high speed needle was the correct thing to do but that was not the problem. I also replaced the glow plugs.

It was the new fuel.

My point is that while Blue Thunder is a great and quality fuel and I am going to continue to use it in my NTC3 and the RC10 GT, no two jugs of fuel are the same and when you get a new bottle of fuel,

CHECK THE ENGINE TEMPS!

I was so lean I am surprised I did not melt down the engines. And yes there was smoke coming out of the pipes.

Guys I race with use O'Donnell, Trinity and other top quality brands and they have experienced at times the same problem I did when they get new fuel of the same brand. No bash on the fuel suppliers meant either.

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Question: Which is better 2WD or 4WD?

Answer: A 2WD is easier to maintain and cost less to purchase, but it will take more time to learn how to handle your truck in turns. A 4WD will give power and traction in these turns, but the draw back is the cost and maintenance.

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Question: What should i use to clean my car?

Answer: Denatured alcohol works great, like a de-greaser. Just be sure you don't get any on electronics.

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Question: What to do if your air filter flies off your car when your driving body on or off.

Answer: Immediately shut the motor off. Since some dirt might of got into the engine and could kill your motor and make you have to rebuild it so. Kill the motor. Take of the carb. Prey nothing got into your motor. Put some nitro into a old cup and put your carb in there. Let it soak for a little bit. That should get out the dirt. Or you could blow out ur carb with a air compressor. Both ways work. Don't be lazy and keep on driving because your to lazy to clean your carb.

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Question: What are some good hop-ups for my car?

Answer: Well this could easily vary, but hardened differentials, a steel spur gear and clutchbell if you want long lasting parts, although you will need a hardened clutchbell as well or you'll possibly strip the clutchbell, titanium turnbuckles, aluminum hub carriers, aluminum knuckles, 2 speed transmission (on-roads)

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Question: What one should do after crash and there is no obvious damage reported?

Answer: You might find the car not going/running the way it was before the crash. Should check the alignments, bent metal parts, should loosen the screws and tide them up again. Should do it after crash or running the car for a whole day and when you found your car's handling become strange. Crash and the vibration/shocks your car "absorbed" might affect the alignment of your car as well as breaking your cat's parts.

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Question: How do I reading your glow plug?

Answer: Keeping an Eye on your glow plug will help you to understand how you should adjust your carburetor.

1) Take the glowplug out and look at the coil element :
if the spiral is a little bit pressed and bent it means that the engine has too much compression. If you are racing on a sea level track, with 25% or more nitro this could be the main reason. Than you need to check under head shims and insert a tenth.

2) If the coil element has a dull, as if it were sanded, it means that the carburetor is too lean (lack of fuel) and you can damage the engine. You run the risk to break the coil element and make it fall down on the top end of the piston, damaging the piston/sleeve. In this case, you should replace the old Plug with a new plug and richen the High Speed needle 1/8th.

3) If the thread has a dark color and the plug seems wet, the carburation is too rich and the engine isn't running at optimal power. You have to lean the carburetor closing the High speed needle.

4) When the coil element is polished and the spiral does not present any imperfections, your engine carburetor is most likely spot on.

This, along with increased experience in learning the "Sounds" of a glow engine and use of a quality temperature gauge, will make you an Ace at tuning your engine... Tuning your Models engine is not "rocket science" and is fairly easy once you completely understand the how the carb works and the effects it has on your engines performance and sound. With some time and experience, it will become second nature to you... just be patient and perceptive and the knowledge you gain will take the voodoo out of this great hobby! Enjoy...
 
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What’s the best...? (Please Read)

What’s the best……?

Pipe, Engine, Oil weight, Battery, Receiver?

We seem to get a lot of questions like this lately. It’s fine to ask theses questions but the more information you can give the better answer you will get. What’s best for one person or situation may not be the best for another.

If you are asking the question give as much detail as you can about what you are doing or what end result you are looking for. Its good practice to let us know what you are using now and why you are looking for something different. It also helps to know what you have tried in the past and didn’t like.

When responding to a post like this please give details as to why you are recommending a certain product. Why is the product you are recommending better for that person than another available product? Tell them what products you have used in the past and are comparing it to. Its always good practice to post a link to supporting information to help the user make up their own mind about the competing products that are available for them to choose from.

This site is all about sharing information and helping people in the hobby. The more details you can give when asking and answering questions will better help everyone in the long run.

-Ed
 
Robinson Racing Six Pack Pinion

Gear Ratios:

32 Pitch
Pinion 54 Tooth Spur
9T 6.00
10T 5.40
11T 4.90
12T 4.50
13T 4.15
14T 3.85
15T 3.60
16T 3.37
17T 3.17
18T 3.00
19T 2.84
20T 2.80
21T 2.70
22T 2.57
23T 2.45
24T 2.34

Pinion 56 Tooth Spur
9T 6.22
10T 5.60
11T 5.09
12T 4.66
13T 4.30
14T 4.00
15T 3.73
16T 3.50
17T 3.29
18T 3.11
19T 2.94
20T 2.80
21T 2.66
22T 2.54
23T 2.43
24T 2.33

Pinion 58 Tooth Spur
9T 6.44
10T 5.80
11T 5.27
12T 4.83
13T 4.46
14T 4.14
15T 3.86
16T 3.62
17T 3.41
18T 3.22
19T 3.05
20T 2.90
21T 2.76
22T 2.63
23T 2.52
24T 2.41

Pinion 60 Tooth Spur
9T 6.66
10T 6.00
11T 5.45
12T 5.00
13T 4.61
14T 4.28
15T 4.00
16T 3.75
17T 3.52
18T 3.33
19T 3.15
20T 3.00
21T 2.85
22T 2.72
23T 2.60
24T 2.50

48 Pitch
Pinion 72 Tooth Spur
12T 6.00
13T 5.53
14T 5.14
15T 4.80
16T 4.50
17T 4.23
18T 4.00
19T 3.78
20T 3.60
21T 3.42
22T 3.27
23T 3.13
24T 3.00
25T 2.88
26T 2.76
27T 2.66
28T 2.57
29T 2.48
30T 2.40

Pinion 75 Tooth Spur
12T 6.25
13T 5.76
14T 5.35
15T 5.00
16T 4.68
17T 4.41
18T 4.16
19T 3.94
20T 3.75
21T 3.57
22T 3.40
23T 3.26
24T 3.12
25T 3.00
26T 2.88
27T 2.77
28T 2.67
29T 2.58
30T 2.50

Pinion 78 Tooth Spur
12T 6.50
13T 6.00
14T 5.57
15T 5.20
16T 4.87
17T 4.58
18T 4.33
19T 4.10
20T 3.90
21T 3.71
22T 3.54
23T 3.39
24T 3.25
25T 3.12
26T 3.00
27T 2.88
28T 2.78
29T 2.69
30T 2.60

Pinion 81 Tooth Spur
12T 6.75
13T 6.23
14T 5.78
15T 5.40
16T 5.06
17T 4.76
18T 4.50
19T 4.26
20T 4.05
21T 3.85
22T 3.68
23T 3.52
24T 3.37
25T 3.24
26T 3.11
27T 3.00
28T 2.89
29T 2.79
30T 2.70
48 Pitch
Pinion 85 Tooth Spur
12T 7.08
13T 6.53
14T 6.07
15T 5.66
16T 5.31
17T 5.00
18T 4.72
19T 4.47
20T 4.25
21T 4.04
22T 3.86
23T 3.69
24T 3.54
25T 3.40
26T 3.27
27T 3.14
28T 3.03
29T 2.93
30T 2.83

Pinion 87 Tooth Spur
12T 7.25
13T 6.69
14T 6.21
15T 5.80
16T 5.43
17T 5.11
18T 4.83
19T 4.57
20T 4.35
21T 4.14
22T 3.95
23T 3.78
24T 3.62
25T 3.48
26T 3.34
27T 3.22
28T 3.10
29T 3.00
30T 2.90

Pinion 90 Tooth Spur
12T 7.50
13T 6.92
14T 6.42
15T 6.00
16T 5.62
17T 5.29
18T 5.00
19T 4.73
20T 4.50
21T 4.28
22T 4.09
23T 3.91
24T 3.75
25T 3.60
26T 3.46
27T 3.33
28T 3.21
29T 3.10
30T 3.00

Pinion 93 Tooth Spur
12T 7.75
13T 7.15
14T 6.64
15T 6.20
16T 5.81
17T 5.47
18T 5.16
19T 4.89
20T 4.65
21T 4.42
22T 4.22
23T 4.04
24T 3.87
25T 3.72
26T 3.57
27T 3.44
28T 3.32
29T 3.20
30T 3.10

Pinion 96 Tooth Spur
12T 8.00
13T 7.38
14T 6.85
15T 6.40
16T 6.00
17T 5.64
18T 5.33
19T 5.05
20T 4.80
21T 4.57
22T 4.36
23T 4.17
24T 4.00
25T 3.84
26T 3.69
27T 3.56
28T 3.43
29T 3.31
30T 3.20

64 Pitch
Pinion 100 Tooth Spur
20T 5.00
21T 4.76
22T 4.55
23T 4.35
24T 4.17
25T 4.00
26T 3.85
27T 3.70
28T 3.57
29T 3.45
30T 3.33
31T 3.23
32T 3.13
33T 3.03
34T 2.94
35T 2.86
36T 2.78
37T 2.70
38T 2.63
39T 2.56
40T 2.50

Pinion 104 Tooth Spur
20T 5.20
21T 4.95
22T 4.72
23T 4.52
24T 4.33
25T 4.16
26T 4.00
27T 3.85
28T 3.71
29T 3.58
30T 3.46
31T 3.35
32T 3.25
33T 3.15
34T 3.05
35T 2.97
36T 2.88
37T 2.81
38T 2.73
39T 2.66
40T 2.60

Pinion 108 Tooth Spur
20T 5.40
21T 5.14
22T 4.91
23T 4.70
24T 4.50
25T 4.32
26T 4.15
27T 4.00
28T 3.86
29T 3.72
30T 3.60
31T 3.48
32T 3.38
33T 3.27
34T 3.18
35T 3.09
36T 3.00
37T 2.91
38T 2.84
39T 2.77
40T 2.70

Pinion 111 Tooth Spur
20T 5.50
21T 5.28
22T 5.04
23T 4.82
24T 4.62
25T 4.44
26T 4.27
27T 4.11
28T 3.96
29T 3.82
30T 3.70
31T 3.58
32T 3.46
33T 3.36
34T 3.26
35T 3.17
36T 3.08
37T 3.00
38T 2.92
39T 2.84
40T 2.77
64 Pitch
Pinion 115 Tooth Spur
20T 5.75
21T 5.48
22T 5.23
23T 5.00
24T 4.79
25T 4.60
26T 4.42
27T 4.26
28T 4.11
29T 3.97
30T 3.83
31T 3.71
32T 3.59
33T 3.49
34T 3.38
35T 3.29
36T 3.19
37T 3.10
38T 3.02
39T 2.94
40T 2.87

Pinion 118 Tooth Spur
20T 5.90
21T 5.62
22T 5.36
23T 5.13
24T 4.91
25T 4.72
26T 4.53
27T 4.37
28T 4.21
29T 4.06
30T 3.93
31T 3.80
32T 3.68
33T 3.57
34T 3.47
35T 3.37
36T 3.27
37T 3.19
38T 3.10
39T 3.02
40T 2.95

Pinion 120 Tooth Spur
20T 6.00
21T 5.71
22T 5.46
23T 5.22
24T 5.00
25T 4.80
26T 4.62
27T 4.44
28T 4.29
29T 4.14
30T 4.00
31T 3.87
32T 3.75
33T 3.64
34T 3.53
35T 3.43
36T 3.33
37T 3.24
38T 3.15
39T 3.07
40T 3.00

Pinion 125 Tooth Spur
20T 6.25
21T 5.95
22T 5.68
23T 5.44
24T 5.21
25T 5.00
26T 4.81
27T 4.63
28T 4.46
29T 4.31
30T 4.17
31T 4.03
32T 3.91
33T 3.79
34T 3.68
35T 3.57
36T 3.47
37T 3.37
38T 3.29
39T 3.20
40T 3.12
 
This has been a pretty popular servo video on my youtube channel. Its about the differences between analog and digital servos although virtually everything is digital these days its interesting info.

 
I just wanted to share that 1/2" pex tubing (for water piping) makes a great shock spacer for adjusting ride height, or at least it worked well on my nitro rustler. It has an ID of about 3/8" or 7/16" Cut it to the length you need, split it lengthwise and it will snap over the shock body above the spring. It stays there since the plastic has a memory, it wants to stay in it's original shape. I'm not sure what the hardware store charges for it, but it's around 35 cents a foot. You can't really go wrong for that price.

It's even available in blue and red.

:)
 
That helped. But i have a question. What is up with these "cordless" servos?
 
Ran across this article and figured Id share it. Really good info in here and they explain it really well.

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