Nitro Help -noob to the nitro world

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Storm_21_924

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Hey all -

I've been in the rc world a while.. I have a RC10B3 but currently looking to go On-road and Nitro. I'm looking for a kit, not RTR.. However, I guess I'm not sure exactly what I need. I know from the electric side, there's servo's and ESC's, Receivers. but what do i need for a Nitro car? Obviously a Receiver and servo for steering. But what about an ESC? or how the motor know to accel or brake? Do i need a specific kind of ESC? Does the receiver plug into the motor? HELP!!

Thanks guys!
 
On a nitro the only thing you need to change from an electric is that you need a servo rather than a speed control for the throttle. It connects to a piece on the engine called a carburetor. Also, you're going to be using fuel instead of batteries :green-grin:

Unlike electrics, you have to do a short run-in period on the engine or you'll blow it up. This usually involves tapping the throttle the first couple tanks then getting steadily faster as you go over the next few tanks.

Nitro engines can be either finnicky and difficult or easy depending on the engine brand you go with. I'm thinking that if you're looking for an on-road nitro you'd be best with an HPI or an associated (or losi? I don't know which does the onroad stuff) I'm sure one of the nitro experts will pop in with a suggestion of their own.
 
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On a nitro the only thing you need to change from an electric is that you need a servo rather than a speed control for the throttle. It connects to a piece on the engine called a carburetor. Also, you're going to be using fuel instead of batteries :Green-grin:

Unlike electrics, you have to do a short run-in period on the engine or you'll blow it up. This usually involves tapping the throttle the first couple tanks then getting steadily faster as you go over the next few tanks.

Nitro engines can be either finnicky and difficult or easy depending on the engine brand you go with. I'm thinking that if you're looking for an on-road nitro you'd be best with an HPI or an associated (or losi? I don't know which does the onroad stuff) I'm sure one of the nitro experts will pop in with a suggestion of their own.

ahhhhhhhhhh that makes sense... So that's why Futaba makes those small servo's.

Thanks for all your help! I was looking at an associated, couldn't find anything Losi.
 
No, the throttle servo is also the brake servo. Typically still a standard sized servo. I prefer running a metal gear higher torque servo for t/b duties. They seem to hold up better than weaker plastic geared servos.

The smaller servos are typically for smaller than 1/10 vehicles or like the revo, it's for switching to reverse.
 
I was looking at an associated,

I think they're the onroad specialists. I know Kyosho makes some but I've never seen anyone with one. My neighbor has an HPI something that's 1/10 scale. He's got a .12 OS engine in it and man that thing SCREAMS. I'd say it goes 60-70 at least.

One thing I can tell you is that you shouldn't go with the Traxxas 4-tec. It may have a .20 engine in a 10th scale car but it's terrible at handling. Traxxas is more of an offroad expert, IMO. Even most of their electrics are offroad. If you want a decent stadium truck, though, the Jato goes 60 out of the box and can go offroad with some new tires. The guy at the hobby shop said that someone sells gear sets for the Jato that are guaranteed to bring it to 100 mph or your money back. He said he got to 96 so he's getting his money back. :green-grin:

I did a bit of research and it turns out that Trinity and Tamiya both have some pretty nice touring cars, both require you to pick the servos and engine but the Tamiya is less expensive.
 
Hands down, I'd recommend an NTC3 by Associated. They come in RTR, kit and Factory Team flavors. You will generally need:

a radio with reciever
two servos (metal geared high torque/high speed are what you want here)
a 5 cell battery pack/charger setup (recommended, but you can go with the 4AA holder)
glow starter
starter box
engine (.12-sized engine should work nicely, although you can go clear up to a .18)

They feature a shaft driven 4 wheel drive setup, with a 2 speed transmission.
 
That's not a bad little car either, but you have to look at parts availability. How hard is it to get Tamiya through your LHS? I know the shops around here don't stock jack when it comes to Tamiya.
 
Hands down, I'd recommend an NTC3 by Associated. They come in RTR, kit and Factory Team flavors. You will generally need:

a radio with reciever
two servos (metal geared high torque/high speed are what you want here)
a 5 cell battery pack/charger setup (recommended, but you can go with the 4AA holder)
glow starter
starter box
engine (.12-sized engine should work nicely, although you can go clear up to a .18)

They feature a shaft driven 4 wheel drive setup, with a 2 speed transmission.


Sorry, just getting back to your list :) The radio I have is a Futaba 3PDFX-FM 3 channel, I'm trying to figure out what receiver will work with it. I do have R113F in my buggy, but I don't want to have to swap it out everytime. The R113F isn't available anymore so i need find something that will work.

I'm not quite sure what I need a 5 cell battery pack or 4AA holder for.. intially i thought for the radio, however my radio uses 8AA
 
So long as it's FM and the band matches (either 27 or 75 mhz), you should be safe with any Futaba-compatible reciever.

You'll need the 5 cell nimh (or 4aa) battery pack for the electronics onboard the car, since there's no ESC. You'll also need a switch harness (preferably with a charge line).
 
Not sure if your using 75MHZ or 27MHZ base, but this receiver should work:
http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXWL88&P=7

Works great with my airtronics MX3.

Great! Thanks guys, I'm using 75mhz, Old97, That one looking interesting for the price. I'll check it out..

But from what your both saying, just so i understand it, As long as the reciever is FM and the same 75mhz, it'll work... if it's a 3 ch or 7 ch.. cause i'd only need 2 (steering and throttle).

So long as it's FM and the band matches (either 27 or 75 mhz), you should be safe with any Futaba-compatible reciever.

You'll need the 5 cell nimh (or 4aa) battery pack for the electronics onboard the car, since there's no ESC. You'll also need a switch harness (preferably with a charge line).

Switch harness for between the battery and the electronics i'm assuming? A charge line, I understand that, but if I just used a 4AA tray with connectors to the electonics, i could just pull the try out of the car and charge it just as easily? less wire clutter?

Sorry for the newb questions :) just want to get my facts in line so i can jump feet first instead of head first :)
 
You could, but 4AA's won't supply as much voltage as a 5 cell pack (assuming the AA's are rechargable), which would affect range and servo performance.

It's just a lot easier to go with a switch with a charge lead on it, with a 5 cell pack. Just remove the body, plug into the jack, and wait for the charge.
 
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