New T-Maxx 3.3 Break in/FOT Woes

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DontHitThat

RC Newbie
Messages
6
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0
Location
Texas
RC Driving Style
  1. Bashing
Hi everyone!

Let me just jump into this. This is my 3rd nitro truck. I am not a pro, but do have some experience. Also sorry in advance for the long first post. I like to be thorough. TL;DR : 3.3 troubles in breaking in, thinking air leak somewhere, will start disassembling and replacing parts.


Out of the box, would not start. Temp in the high 80s, low 90s with low humidity. Had to reset needles. Using Traxxas 20%, in quarts, not returning any unused fuel into bottle.

I barely got through tank 5 on a new 3.3 for break in. Tank 4, first run went great, then when you would apply throttle, it would just sit or barely move. One slipper pad gone, another only partially there. I'm reading this is pretty common. Pick up new parts a hobby store. Went with the aluminum pads for now. Only non-stock part installed.

Slipper replaced. Refuel, and try to start. No go. Reset needles. No go. Lean HSN, starts, runs horribly. Warms up, runs ok, but idle is way too high. Still a good amount of smoke. I try and adjust the idle and it does nothing. In fact, the needle inside the carb does not move (it is supposed to move, right?). I can put on the breaks or move the linkage and it idles down. Reset linkage, idles ok.

Run through tank 4 runs ok. Some stalling, still smoke. Cannot get it to WOT with it bogging down. Sounds horrible, especially from a high speed run and then idling. There is no way to describe it other than the high low sound of a donkey. At this point I am thinking air leak. No telling what might have happened when the slipper failed.

I try and adjust the idle and try and richen it up a bit, to be on the safe side and it stalls and will not start. I have to lean it up to get it running again. I still cannot get to WOT, so I lean some more and some more, but it still will not run at WOT. I run the last tank though begrudgingly as best as I can.

It shifts into 2nd gear with needs at factory. I had a helluva time getting it to stay in first on tank 4. Before the slipper went out, it ran like a champ at factory settings, so much that I had to be extra careful to not accelerate too fast.

So, I am at tank 6 with a 3.3 engine that I am not confident running without some diagnostics.

What I have tried so far:
1. soapy water test with nothing showing leaks.
2. reset needles to factory again, and start. Has to be leaned to get it running.
3. Idle screw does not move the needle in the carb. Should it?
4. Tightened EZ Start.
5. Tightened exhaust header.
6. Replace glow plug.
7. Used fully charge battery.
8. Emailed Traxxas support with symptoms and pics. No response for 2 weeks. Have not called yet.

What I am going to try:
1. Replace fuel line.
2. Zip tie fuel line connections.
3. Pull engine and inspect closer.
4. Tighten carb.
5. Re-zip tie exhaust pipe to header.

It is raining here today, so I might not get to work on it.

If anyone has any words or wisdom, I would be very appreciative!
 
First off I would pull engine and seal it up good. Even though you checked I would seal it up regardless. yes the idle needle should move on and out as you adjust the carb. Set your needles back to stock settings and go from there. A good rule of thumb if the truck does the chubaca idle its to lean. Hope this helps. :D
 
Thanks! I am going to call Traxxas this week and see if they will replace the needle, if not the carb. I have to drive about 90 miles to the nearest hobby store, so I called and had them pull some parts for some of my other trucks. I'll be busy next weekend.
 
Yah it could be your carb body is stripped. I have had trouble with traxxas carbs in the past stripping where the idle screw goes in. I used to try and keep an extra carb housing just for that. If it's a new rig Traxxas should make it right man. Good luck.:D
 
Yeah, I am sure they will, I just need to get them on the phone. Looks like it will be Friday at this point. I am getting parts to get my other trucks running too, so lots of time this weekend working on them. I blew out an aluminum shock on my old .15 convert to .21 yesterday and lost a spring as well, but I got some big air on those jumps. I am going to build a small bash course out in one of my fields, if I have time this coming weekend.
 
I know this only sorta helps, but you can try to zip-tie the bottom portion of your springs to the lower control arm, that way the next time you have a hard landing at least your springs won't vanish
 

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