new revo 3.3 running like POO!

[8ball]

i'd like to preapoligise for asking stupid questions at this point but i've never owned one of these before. some guys i worked with talked me into buying one because we work out of town alot and they get together in parking lots and fields after work to pass the time. i actualy like the idea because it keeps them out of the bars and out of trouble! now i bought a revo3.3 via hobbytownUSA because the guy said it was "top of the line" and i told him i wanted the best. we were running short strait runs (100'-125'long) the other nite and it ran fine for 2 tanks or so. then we were running in a large oval for a few miniuts and my revo shut off and was smoking a little. i ran over to it and i could smell something i think mite have been clutch. i pulled the body off and shot it with my temp at the glo plug and it read 350! my heart sank! this thing is only a week old! now it starts but its hard to keep running unless your giving a good bit of throtle. it runs but it just doesn't want to idle and it seems to make a crackling noise i didnt really notice before. the tech support says if it starts and runs its not hurt but i'm not so sure. really stumped as to what made this happen, i was very careful to break this thing it properly to keep this from happening so this sucks. it just pops and cracks unless your giving it throtle, then it seems to run good at speed. any ideas at all? thanks

 

[alpinehyperlite]

Which break in procedure did you follow? Also have you tried tuning at all?

 

[8ball]

i followed the manual breakin to the TEE! and yes I've tuned a little. the guy at hobbytown told me to just keep a little smoke flowing from the tailpipe and i'd be fine.dont think i was runnind lean because i could see blue smoke the whole time, just faint but blue smoke none the less.

 

[alpinehyperlite]

Bring the HS and LS needles back to factory spec, and retune from there.

 

[randall]

Rich your high speed needle and change your glow plug and then see where your at then.Sometimes they can get to hot and it will run like crap.

 

[8ball]

Alpine, I've never adjusted the LS needle. the guy at the hobbyshop told me to never touch that one. I've only adjusted the top adjustment. also i put a new plug in it and am running it rich but it still is hard to keep running.

 

[alpinehyperlite]

Running rich can hurt the tune just as bad as running lean.

 

[fescue101]

try resetting your needles to 2 full turns out from tight on your lsn and 4 turns out on your hsn. i had the same thing happening and changed my lsn and that was the problem because after that it idles and runs perfect.

 

[mtaylortank]

you might be leaking air someplace. because that is what my maxx and jato are doing and I have tride every tune there is they just wont stay idling, and keap burning plugs so the only thing I can think of is air leak. I am ordering new lines and sealent. any preferd brands for the sealent?? I dont want to use something and then find out it was usless....

But yeah make sure you lines are tight and sealing the motor is a good Idea I have not done it a few times and no luck with keaping them running real good.. It pays to always do it right the first time!! Eaven if you are feeling lazy!!

 

[8ball]

i think i fixed it yesterday. the gloplug was leaking just slightly. Matter of fact it was just bumb luck that i figured it out. i usualy blow everything off at the end of each run with a can of commpressed air but i forgot to this time and i noticed a bubble down at the gloplug. i snugged it up a bit and it seeems to run really good now.think i need to do some clutch work at this point, it trys but it doesn't lift the front tires at launch. the one i see on youtube are frekin catwalkin all over the place!

 

[randall]

Tighten your slippery clutch it should cat walk then.

 

[mtaylortank]

yup that would help.

 

[Jadethread]

CHECK YOUR HEAD BOLTS! my buddy got one and it ran like poo. hot , wouldn't idle right. broke rod and piston. head bolts were lose from day one.

 

[wildchild]

Revo 3.3

Keep you engine temps 240- 275. Also make sure you run a real good air filter on all nitro trucks. What percent nitro are your running ? We use 15 percent S&W on all of our trucks.
Tighten your slipper clutch and your launch will get better (more air) along with different clutch shoes.
The revo has the best suspension there is on the market right now In my opinion!
Don't give up keep tweaking with both LS & HS needles just alittle at a time but watch your temps.
I would also recommend a Davis Diesel con rod traxxas rods just don't hold up!!

Have Fun!

 

[hamz9561]

I'd disagree with with the 250* or lower temps on a TRX 3.3. Mine tended to run best between 270 and 290* whether it was 75 or 95 ambient.

 

[Raiden101]

Just don't run over 300, that's when things start to go bad

 

[wildchild]

We run our between 240-275 area with an outside temp usually between 80-90 degrees. We always tune for the temp. and humidity. Just remember the hotter you run the motors the shorter period that they last ,this goes with all engines!
All out trucks from 2.5 to 5.9 ,run in this temp range. Now if I were racing I would have to run leaner to be faster but since we are just bashing on our track we keep them cooler and the engines last longer but we still have enough power to put them on the rear bumpers!!!

 

[Smokin' Joe]

3.3

My neighbor's 3.3 Shot course truck runs about 280 all the time. Lots of smoke and runs great. As i read above, the head bolts were loose just after break in and the temps shot up to 350 or there about. That is common on RTR's. Always seal and check any engine before it's first use. And, In my opinion, you will eventually need to adjust the low speed needle. Instead of telling you to leave it alone, he should have explained to you what it is and what it does so you'd make a better connection when reading your manual. Once you get a gallon or so through this engin it will "Wake Up." You'll need to retune and rebuild the clutch and you'll be kickin' A#$!!!!

 

[Jadethread]

On my savages (.25 and 4.6) I have never had to tighten the head bolts. But about every 2 or 3 tanks I do check to make sure they are still sealed. Trade the Traxxas for a Savage. kidding but not really. IMO (and I have alot of experience with trx .15, 2.5, and a little with the 3.3) the savage is much more user friendly (easier to work on), way more tougher, and less complicated. The T maxx's have a smoother ride I believe. I also like the way the camber adjustment is on them (my savy's had none until I bought the adjustable upper arms). The only thing I'm not real sure on is whether or not a T maxx 3.3 can take a 4.6 if they are stock with the fastest gearing on them. I'm leaning towards the savy! And i agree with Smokin'Joe about the LSN. Squirrelrod has some very informative videos on youtube about carb adjustments and etc.

 

[Smokin' Joe]

Savage...

I actually agree that the savage is a better truck. Traxxas seems to break by plan... Not saying that is a fact, but you slowly move through the vehicle until everything has been upgraded. I think that it's good they are around for the RTR market and new people entering the hobby/sport. You can actually drive a savage more than you repair it... lol. OK. I'll leave Traxxas alone. BTW, seen a Savage with the "Big Red" engine and it was killing everything in sight. Look at the chasis on that monster.