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cwal1774

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  1. Bashing
Hey guys whats up? I need some help here. I bought a slayer off of ebay, just got it today. The thing is not as much fun as I thought it would be. I am seriously thinking about converting it to a Revo. I searched this forum earlier and found a couple of guys who have done it but the details were kind of vague. I was hoping someone could give me a detailed list of the parts I will need. I know I will need the suspension arms pushrods and toe links wheels and tires and driveshafts. I'm not sure about the clutch and spur gear or the axel carriers. Any detailed help would be greatly appreciated.
 
Sounds like you got it right with the list,if you have the 16 tooth clutch bell and 40 tooth spur gear you should be alright. Goodluck!
 
Thanks that really helps a lot what about the axle carriers? Should I install a second steering srvo?
 
Most people opt to REMOVE the second steering servo as two servo's tend to fight each other. If your looking at fitting a second servo, maybe consider putting that money into a higher torque servo to replace the stock one instead ?? just an idea.

As to what parts u need to convert it from a slayer to a revo;

Upper & lower front and rear suspension arms,
Front & rear suspension pushrods,
Front steering tie rods,
Rear hub tie links,
Front & Rear driveshafts.

Hubs should be good to go, as should the wheel hexes unless you are looking to fit 17mm hex hubs, in which case new wheels and tyres would be required.

Also, i would look into replacing the shock oil as well and maybe changing out the springs for stiffer ones. The extra leverage on the longer revo arms will overcome the shock oil and spring setup more easily than if the slayer was left in stock format, so i would "suggest" looking into it.

I was actually looking at converting a Revo into a Slayer (only due to owning two revo's), so i am aware of "most" parts that need to be switched out/replaced to complete the conversion.
 
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Thanks a lot thunder tiger your info is most valuable. Converting a revo to a slayer huh? Unless you want to spend a lot of time flipping the thing back over on its wheels I would sugguest against it. I found several extended revo chassis on ebay pretty cheap most around 20 bucks would it be worth it for the 30mm longer wheel base and better stability, or should I just use the shorter slayer chassis? I plan on getting the sway bar kit also a lot of people say it helps in the handling. I'm going to keep the slayer front and rear bumbers I like the way they look and I think they will look killer on it since I'm going to use a proline hardcore body. What steering servo would you suggest?
 
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err...............is the slayer not a standard revo 2.5 chassis ? (thats what i assumed).

If you are looking at getting a revo 3.3 chassis, the extra 33mm up front will allay a lot of the wheely potential as well as aid stability. Also, you would need a longer center front driveshaft to suit. Is it worth it ?? well as far as i am concerned, for my needs, YES, it IS worth it. Whether it is worth it for you, is entirely your decision.

Sway bar kits.......My experience tells me that they DO WORK. The vehicle that they are fitted to stays flatter through turns allowing greater speed to be carried. The side being pushed up under load will transmit through the sway bar and lift the opposing side (not by a lot, but enough) thus keeping the vehicle "flatter" and more stable, although that depends entirely on sway bar diameter and shock oil & shock spring setup.

Some other things to possibly look into would be;

1) fitting a centre diff (although that too would stop the wheely factor i would imagine)
2) Rear brake kit (More stopping power is always good)
3) Rear upward travel limiter to stop rear end lift under braking conditions.
4) Stiffer front shocks and thicker shock oil to help allay nose dive under braking conditions
5) Stiffer Rear shocks and thicker shock oil than front to help stop rear end squat under acceleration.
6) Rear wing Kit (This helps protect the rig during roll overs, especially the engine head).


Other things i "personally" recommend are:

1) Fuel Filter
2) Manual glow plug igniter rather than any onboard glow plug igniter system.
3) Tiger drive starter or similar in place of the standard roto/EZ start system OR, a thunder tiger pro 21r recoil starter unit and OWB.

The t/tiger pull start unit is a lot more reliable, better designed and more able to cope with the starting of the revo .18 (2.5/2.5r) or .20 (3.3) engines than the stock pull start unit is.

I have one fitted to my 2.5 and its the best thing i have ever done to my revo !!!

S1051948.gif


Hope all that helps you.........................

As to the slayer thing, i'm used to flipping rigs, i did my apprenticeship into R/C flipping my buggy back onto its wheels after running at least 100 yards or more. That kind of thing tends to make you learn to drive better and avoid the running where you can help it. A handy trait when you leap from a buggy to a truck.

My tendency is to push each new rig harder and harder through corners until i flip it in a turn, then learn where the point of balance is for speed (by backing of the throttle a little at a time) in such conditions and tailor my driving style to suit.

No longer do i regularly flip a rig unless it is to test a modification, or if it can't be helped with the terrain i'm running on at the time.

Revo to slayer ?? Should be interesting................. a slevo 3.3, now there is an idea you can't help but admire................. (Slevo = Slayer & Revo combined)

Still looking at the revo 3.3 to slayer 3.3 conversion........

Slayer 3.3 = A Revo 3.3 chassis with slayer arms, shafts, pushrods, wheels and body (If i can get it to fit)...
 
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Thanks a lot thunder tiger you are veritable wealth of info. This is going to be a winter project my priority right now is to get my injured T-Maxx back up and running. Yes the slayer is a standard 2.5 chassis and would probably work, but I like wheelies and the extra stability will be worth the 20 bucks I'm kinda lazy so I'll be using the ez start and the stock 3.3 mainly because it will all just drop right in. You're info has been invalueable. I will try to post some pics on here as the build comes along and will let everyone know how its coming. Again thanks a lot, maybe I could send you all my slayer parts. If we could figure out how to ship them to London I would be happy to give them to you.
 
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Thanks a lot thunder tiger you are veritable wealth of info.

I wouldn't say that exactly.....

You're info has been invalueable.

Thank you

maybe I could send you all my slayer parts. If we could figure out how to ship them to London I would be happy to give them to you.

I can arrange shipping and pay for it (would need to know box dimensions and weight to begin with), and i would also offer to pay for the parts aswell which would help offset the conversion cost for you............. I calculated the cost at a frazzle over £100 GBP for all the parts i would need for the conversion.........not expensive, but not cheap either.

I also have some of the parts YOU would need for the conversion, like a full set of suspension arms and front and rear drive shafts (standard items). I stripped an unfinished 3.3 conversion to rebuild it as all alloy and titanium where possible (including a new chassis), so the arms and shafts are spares.

The rest of the parts are promised to a fellow forum member otherwise i would have offered them to you............
 
Ok I can start stripping this thing tomorrow after work. I've got some boxes and some packing material I think I can find one that will work. Let me get her broke down and we will work out the details. I'm not worried about making any money off the parts I'm glad to help out with someones project if I can, that's what this hobby is all about. I bought this thing used off ebay the wheels are a little beat up but the tires are in good shape, and I got a bunch of extra toe links with it.
 
Should i get these parts my end boxed and ready to ship to you ? I can have them on their way pretty quickly if needed. They will at least help get you nearer to where you need to be to be running again.
 
You can if you want to it will take me a couple days to get the salyer parts ready to ship I will start tearting it down tonight after work and I will be on here this evening so we can talk about the details I've never shipped any thing over seas so you will have to walk me through it. Well I gotta get ready for work. So we will talk later.
 
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