My shaft is not hard enough

[b-rian]

So i've upgraded to the Picco .26,and have replaced most of the drivtrain with stronger parts.The next part that keeps breaking is the shaft in the trans(where the center shafts bolt on) The trans is from the 2.5-the drivelines are MIP.Is there a stronger shaft made? Maybe something made of titanium or kryptonite.Oh yeah i have the RRP steel foc and 3.3 axles with big joe 40 series tires and both front and rear diffs. are spooled.Thanks in advance! B-rian

 

[frickenjoey]

Get rid of the spooled diffs for starters.....they are nothing but trouble for the whole drive line. Put real diffs back in front and back...90% of your problems will go away. If mine will hold up to a LRP .28 your .26 should be no problems

 

[k5floyd]

You need to take the spool out of at least one of the diffs. Assuming you know how a differential works, when you turn, the front and rear wheels also turn at different speeds as well as wheels on either side of the same differential. With spools on both ends it puts the drivetrain in a bind. Even tho the tmaxx does not have a center diff the stock open style diffs allow some give in the drivetrain. With the added torque, weight, rotational mass and traction of the larger tires it's no wonder you are busting that shaft. As an alternative to spools you could try the heaviest diff oil you could find or bad horsie's diff locking grease either should give somewhat of a limited slip effect.

 

[frickenjoey]

As above I would vote for ditch both lockers. I have used one ONCE. That was all I needed to find out they are bad juju. If you want the heavy diff, use 100K+ oil and you will stop breaking stuff.

 

[JaeJae]

My shaft is not hard enough


Thats what she said.

 

[Rolex]

My shaft is not hard enough

Fortunately, I've never run into that problem.

 

[olds97_lss]

I'm trying really hard to refrain from any jokes...

I had a similar issue with my t-maxx, but it was the shaft the two speed spins on. Sheared it off twice running a BB (without locked diffs). I was running an alloy trans case, full RRP steel inside the trans and a M1 spur from RC solutions.

If it wasn't a diff shelling out, it was a shaft in the trans or CVD...

I'd also suggest you dump the spools and go for some diff locker grease so there is some give via the diffs. If possible, loosen up your spur/slipper a bit at the very least.

What clutch are you using? You could try getting softer spring(s) for the shoes and try composite shoes if your running aluminum. This will allow for a less snappy take off, but may help your parts hold up.

 

[b-rian]

The only reason i spooled the diffs. is cuz i kept tearing up the diff. cups.I would go back to a semi-limited slip arrangement if someone could recommend a hardened diff cup(part brands/numbers).I heard Viagra makes a hard one...lol!

 

[Snook Man]

Purchase a set of Emaxx brushless diffs and then swap the input pinions from a Tmaxx 4909 diff into the Emaxx diffs (BL input pinions are shorter and the 4909 pinion will give you the length needed for the center cvd’s)
The BL diffs have steel spider gear pin retainers much like a 1/8th scale diff and hold up well with the BB engines. As a bonus they are sealed diffs.

 

[dub c]

no fellas he means the output shaft inside the tranns! And he needs a steel output shaft.

I have ran into this before. I purchased a complete tranny from off the shelf parts... and it turned out that my forward only shaft was made of a soft metal. I want to say ALU.(unsure because I never tested) Needless to say it twisted right off and I threw it in the trash.

My stock 4908 output shaft was made from a hardened steel.... Go figure!

Ther is infact 2 different output shafts made by traxxas. I just wish I could help out more.

 

[frickenjoey]

I know what shaft he was talking about...However, I have never twisted one off even with a LRP .28. I was using the internal shaft from the Revo in my FOC. It was decent steel and pretty heavy.