motor likes to stall at low RPM

[studcow00]

I'm running an ofna .26 rotostart on my 9.5V it runs ok (still really rich only 4th tank of gas) I'm using odonnell 30% but the mill likes to stall at low rpm...

its not a huge problem... say I'm driving and it stopps in a ditch, when i run to move it the motor will make a pop-hiss kinda sound and shut off... then ill put the old igniter on it and turn it over and BAM :hammer: it starts right up

I'm assuming its still too rich, runs at 180-190 degrees (i dont wanna break 210 till my 5th or 6th tank) I'm wondering if it will go away when i lean it out, or if i have my low needle at the wrong spot.

 

[Diver6127]

You are rich. Try to hover around 200-210 degrees when breaking in the engine. anything below 200 and there's not enough heat to cycle the sleeve correctly.

 

[aj200415]

you are pretty rich and you really need to bring your temps. up.

 

[kx250ryder]

180-190 should still keep the engine running though. Your low speed needle is probably too rich, or your idle adjustment screw is too low. I have heard though, that you should always keep your temps at least at 200 during break in to ensure that all parts in the engine heat up to proper tolerances.

What I do now for jetting is pretty simple, and has taken most of the frustration out.

1. run the car, with varying speeds (high rev and low rev), then bring it in and temp. it.

2. Adjust the high speed needle until the temp is where you want it (200 or so for break in, maybe 220-250 for normal running).

3. Adjust low end needle until proper acceleration is desired. A good frame of reference would be to pinch your fuel line right next to the carb nipple, and it should kill the engine between 3-5 seconds later.

4. Re-check top end, and adjust to temp.

5. Re-check low end, and adjust for acceleration.

6. Set idle as high as possible without making the vehicle move.

That should get you there. So each day, you spend about a half a tank setting up, and after that, you may just spin the lsn or hsn an 1/8th one way or the other as the weather changes.

One side note: I have noticed that my car takes the better part of a tank full to get up to 200 degrees. So I would suggest running a tank just to get up to temps, before you start really trying to tune.

 

[OFNA buggy basher]

I read somewere in this forum to set the idle as low as possible without the engine cutting out. Its suppose to reduce clutch wear and your engine doesn't work as hard. I think it was by diver or vbgagnon.

 

[kx250ryder]

I read somewere in this forum to set the idle as low as possible without the engine cutting out. Its suppose to reduce clutch wear and your engine doesn't work as hard. I think it was by diver or vbgagnon.

Wow. Thats new to me. I always heard you want your idle as high as possible so there is no lag when you let off the gas and get back on it again. Plus, if your car is not moving at idle, you probably aren't slipping your clutch much anyway.

 

[studcow00]

yup, its just me being a coward and running rich. it was cuz I'm running 30%, and had only used 20% in my tmaxx (my tmaxx2.5 only ran at 300 degrees... it lasted five gallons) after i blew my tmaxx motor, i upgraded to the sirio 18 and the factory settings were wrong at breakin, so the motor burned up rather quickly...

and about the idel deley... i alwayse used the increase idle until it moves, then back it out 1/8 turn or more so it just dosent move.

 

[studcow00]

ok I'm pretty confused... the darned motor is hard as hell to start... turned it over for days before it started... (yes its getting gas... wasted 1/3 tank) yes my plug is good, and yes my igniter is fresh... ugh!!! not to mention once i start the bloody thing it will move forward 1/2 foot and stall... unless i romp the throttle for a few minutes before it can stall...

 

[RatzoRC]

You might still be rich.
What plug are you using with the 30%, and what fuel are you using?

Rule of thumb is the higher the nitro content, the colder the plug.

 

[CorradoPsi]

you are so rich, its still stalling. lean out the lsn a bit. also a fresh driver doesn't mean its a good one. the drivers that take drycells, are horrible unless you use a rechargable battery in them. I've seen the ones that use a AA be no good after 4 starts with a fresh battery. always use a rechargable ignitor and make sure its fresh.

 

[niggle]

you are so rich, its still stalling. lean out the lsn a bit. also a fresh driver doesn't mean its a good one. the drivers that take drycells, are horrible unless you use a rechargable battery in them. I've seen the ones that use a AA be no good after 4 starts with a fresh battery. always use a rechargable ignitor and make sure its fresh.

Ditto to that. Just swapped the 1700mAH NiCd sub-C cell in my glow starter for a 3700mAH NiMH one. Had no idea that a cold plug could glow so brightly...

 

[CorradoPsi]

you think thats bright, you should see a cold plug with 10,000mah behind it, its a friggin lightbulb. my ignitors nickname at the track is old reliable, it fires ANYTHING.

 

[OFNA buggy basher]

Got a link to "old reliable" corrado? would love to add one to my tool box. Thanks.

 

[studcow00]

i would lean it out more if it didnt run at 220... I'm useing the stock glow plug with a "D" sized igniter. ima replace the d battory the next time i go to run it, its just annoying... I'm 90% sure it isnt the igniter, i did some more testing in trying to start it, and if i tap the starter it starts much faster, than just turning it ove and over and over... i dont even understand why.

oh and I'm still running odonnel 30%

 

[CorradoPsi]

so what if its at 220. news flash, you motor might like running at 250. lean out that lsn a little bit, and get a good rechargable "D" cell for your ignitor.

 

[Hypedonrc]

Check this out.

https://www.rcnitrotalk.com/forum/showthread.php?t=32563