LRP Z.28R Help removing piston sleeve!!

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deviousduck

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I am having extreme trouble taking out the piston sleeve. I have removed the carb, the pull start, backplate. Only I need a tool to take off the flywheel as it is stuck fast!! I am thinking it is not because of this that the piston sleeve will not come out!! But as I know how important it is not to damage this piece, I am at wits end as to what I should do!! I feel like just prying it out but it will cost me €85 for a new set. and this 2 week thing is already costing me too much!! lol.

I would much appreciate any help you could give me!!:D
 
I had the same problem with the sleeve rebuilding my .15s for my HPI and I used a Q-Tip shaft, stuck down into the sleeve and out the exhaust port then turned the flywheel to pop it up so I could grab it or from the exhaust port into the sleeve straight in and turn. The Q-tip does not harm the sleeve or piston at all just be prepared for a sprained wrist from the force of the flywheel turning and cutting through the q-tip if its really stuck & you use this method. (Not the plastic shaft q-tips, the rolled paper ones)
 
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I had the same problem with the sleeve rebuilding my .15s for my HPI and I used a Q-Tip shaft, stuck down into the sleeve and out the exhaust port then turned the flywheel to pop it up so I could grab it or from the exhaust port into the sleeve straight in and turn. The Q-tip does not harm the sleeve or piston at all just be prepared for a sprained wrist from the force of the flywheel turning and cutting through the q-tip if its really stuck & you use this method. (Not the plastic shaft q-tips, the rolled paper ones)

Thanks I have been trying the same sort of method but using cable ties but to no avail!!(just cuts them off) Is there anything similar the the q-tips I could use as there is nowhere for me to get them in the area! Or am I just buggered, lookin at buy a new engine! or of course another method!!!

Thanks again!
 
A popsicle stick (tongue depressor) or common variety sucker stick should be useful as well. Not as easy for the piston to cut it. If you can, heat the block up to 150F or so, then try when it's hot. Can use a hair dryer to get it up to 100F or so or you can use a toaster oven, but keep a close watch on it as they get pretty hot pretty quick. I used our toaster oven to remove bearings out of blocks. Got the block up to about 300F, then whacked it on a block of wood and the bearings pop out.

Sum try to use a tooth brush handle jammed up against the bottom of the sleeve through the back of the crank case. I've always had good luck with the q-tip or ziptie method though. With a ziptie, you have to use the head of the ziptie, not the flat part.

You said the flywheel is stuck as well? Is the nut stuck or is the flywheel stuck on the crankshaft after removing the nut? If it's stuck after removing the nut, just press the tip of the crankshaft against a block of wood and gently tap the back of the flywheel with a hammer handle (non-metal but hard device). It should pop off as well.
 
i had the same issue when i rebuilt my 3.3. I put the old ladys hair dryer on it for about 5 or 10 minutes with some wd-40 on the outside edges of the sleeve and it came right out. once it gets hot just turn the flywheel and the sleeve should slide right up. if it's not working just keep on heating it for longer periods of time. hope this helps
 
All the advice you've received is great, except for one thing.
To remove the flywheel so that no damage is done to the bearings in any way, is a gear puller.
This should remove the flywheel very easily, then you can remove the crankshaft in the above described way by pushing the snout of the crank against a block of wood.

The shock load placed on the bearings, especially the front bearing, is enough to warp the cage slightly if you pound on it with ANYTHING! I have also seen dents on the steel case doing it this way.

I too use popsicle sticks to remove a sticky sleeve, place on it's edge, if it fits that way, through the exhaust port and turn the flywheel.
:D
 
Tried everything zip ties in the exhaust wooden sticks.. wooden sticks while heating it up it wont budge!!! Got fed up and ordered a new LRP ZR.30 x does anyone know much about this engine!! Anything I should know!!
 
Wow! That sucker is stuck!

The 30 is a torque monster and it doesn't sip the fuel either, but you should be used to that since you had the 28. I don't have first hand knowledge, just vids watched on trucks similar to mine. The 30 seems to throw around an LST like a rag doll.
 

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