Looking for a losi micro-t/DT/sct/highroller/SMT 2.4ghz esc/receiver board LOSB9524 or alternative for brushed.

Welcome to RCTalk

Come join other RC enthusiasts! You'll be able to discuss, share and private message with other members of our community.

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

olds97_lss

RCTalk VIP
Supporter
Excellence Award
Build Thread Contributor
Messages
20,350
Reaction score
2,255
Location
Dekalb, IL
RC Driving Style
  1. Bashing
Well, when trying to move my micro-high roller board over to a DT chassis last night, I must have pinched a wire or something and let the smoke out of one of the fets. I have no idea if the entire board is toast or just that fet. As small as it is, replacing the fet is going to be sketchy at best. I ordered some replacements, but could only find them in China, so will be 4-5 weeks before they get here, if they ever do.

I run a brushed DT motor on it. I tried brushless, but it lacked low end torque and was too fast/twitchy for running around the house. I've ordered a small brushed 10A esc, but no clue if I can get it and a receiver to fit on the chassis.

I'm assuming I pinched the black wire as it desoldered itself within a second after I blipped the throttle to see if I had everything hooked up ok. It was steering fine until that happened... then I disconnected the battery (2S lipo). Suppose I could plug it back in to see if it still connects to my transmitter and steers... then I know there is potential hope for fixing it.
2021-0208-microT-Losi-LOSB9524-FriedFet-4502GM.jpg
 
Last edited:
Well, I found my old AM board and it used the same fets. I desoldered one and put it on the 2.4ghz damaged board, now it works without smoking, but it only drives forward with no brake or reverse.
2021-0209-microT-Losi-LOSB9524-FriedFet-4502GM-Repaired.jpg


Today, the 20A brushed cheap esc's off amazon I ordered showed up and I spent the better part of 5 hours installing it and an old orange dsm2 receiver inside the battery bay of the micro-DT chassis.
2021-0210-MicroT-Generic20AmpBrushedESC-installedNoCover.jpg


Seems the esc doesn't have brake. There was a switch on it that allowed for braking, but I removed it and jumpered the leads assuming it was either forward/brake or forward/reverse, the switch had 2 positions. I should have tried both settings to see what it did before installing it, don't know why I didn't. Perhaps the other setting makes it do forward/reverse and brake. It came with 2 of them, so I could wire up the second one on the bench to see what it does.

The esc:
Readytosky RC 20A Brush ESC Motor Speed Controller w/Brake for RC Car Boat Tank(2PCS)
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B086LDK6LD
2021-0210-MicroT-Generic20AmpBrushedESC-bottom.jpg

2021-0210-MicroT-Generic20AmpBrushedESC-top.jpg


I shortened the servo lead by a bit more than half so I didn't have so much extra to try to cram in there with it.

I ran across a 30A version too, but it's longer. Not sure it would have fit.

I put a new hole in the MHR body, made a body post out of a piece of a probodyrc body for the rear and left the MHR front body mount as it was. It's at a goofy angle now, but it still works.
2021-0210-MicroT-Generic20AmpBrushedESC-installedSpurSide.jpg


Also, the spur is for the micro-crawler. I had that on there to slow it down and add some bottom end torque when running the DT or raminator tires. It doesn't fit inside the spur cover though. It didn't on the high roller either, but I sanded it with a sanding drum on my dremel until the inside wall was paper thin all around the spur, then it fit. May do the same with the standard cover to help keep hair/fuzz from getting all wound up in the spur.

Finished product:
2021-0210-MicroT-Generic20AmpBrushedESC-installedBodySide.jpg


Only ran about 1/3 of a pack through it tonight. Will try and run a full pack through it this week to see how the esc does. I did cut away the heat shrink around the larger fets so they could breath a little bit better. Isn't a ton better since I have it jammed in the battery area, but still they aren't wrapped with a thick heat shrink anymore, so it couldn't hurt.
 
Last edited:
I removed the esc and changed the jumper (used to be a 2 position switch that I somehow already lost) to see what the other setting did. It does have brake, but it's forward/reverse/brake. The brake is so weak that it's useless even on a micro-t. It barely slows it down and I repeatedly smashed into everything in my path. I took it apart and put it back to forward/reverse. Isn't the easiest to control, but at least I smash into less stuff.

If I didn't have the MSCT diff internal mod I did many years go, the forward/reverse slamming would likely fry the diff. But as it is with the DT tires on it, they just do a reverse burnout if I go too far in reverse. I changed my radio EPA to make things a bit more controlled to 70% fwd 25% reverse. I have the old atomik BB motor in it and I'm running it on 2S.

My small 2S packs are really old and after running 2 packs through it, it didn't seem to overheat or have any issues. The only notable issue is that when the pack gets low enough, the car will take off in bursts on it's own. When I checked the pack with a checker, one cell was 2.8v, the other was 3.2v. My dynamite 2s/3s DYNC0505 charger doesn't seem to balance the packs very well as when I take them off the charger, one cell will be at 4.19 and the other at 4.14.

I ordered a couple new 300mah 2S packs for it.

Just glad it's working again.
 
Back
Top