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Just inherited a revo

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J

joshman1204

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My brother got tired of nitro and just bought a new slash brushless and gave me his old revo.

So what i have is a bone stock revo with a 2.5 motor that seems to be getting a little low on compression (I can spin it pretty easily with one finger) . I am totally new to nitro but have been reading a ton of tuning guides and other threads here and feel like I am getting a pretty good grip on tuning it. I have run about 1/2g of fuel through it and I am absolutely hooked on this thing :)

Now to the questions:

1) I am looking at a new motor and not sure what to get. I will never race this truck and will be bashing the crap out of it everytime I run it. I am thinking of getting the os.21tm but not sure if there is a better option for bashing.

2) I want to put the rpm tru-trac on the back and rpm arms/carriers on the front but i have read some negative things about the rpm carriers. would i be better going with the rpm tru trac and front arms but using the tekno carriers instead?

3)What else should I be looking to upgrade to make this a solid basher truck?

Thanks in advance for any help!
 
I run stock rear arms and carriers and rpm front. As far as engines I recommend the picco .26 jl red dot and if you want to save a bit of cash the dynamite .19T is a direct drop in and a good engine. Much better engine than the TRX 3.3. I have it on my tmaxx. I put a brand new 2.5r on my revo and live it. Other upgrades should include a single steering servo instead of dual stockers. I have a Futuba S3305 on steering and a traxxas 2075 on throttle brake. I also recommend a good exhaust like THS or BUKU. then we go to shocks. I like the stock shocks on the e revo which are the titanium threaded bodied shocks with 50 wt oil and I have the blue spring rate on rear and green rate on front. Get a wing for rear if you don't already have one. It protects the but end of rig from wheelie damage and looks cool. Other than simple things I mentioned the revo is already a pretty nice basher and set up right with the driving skillz can even make a low level racer happy. Only in a mt class that is. View attachment 11273View attachment 11274
 
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All the above is my opinion only. Not to start a thread fight with anyone because others may say and recommend different things. Mine works for me but may not for you.
 
Well had some buddies come over today and wanted to run and the 2.5 was just shot so I went to the LHS looking for a new motor. They didnt have much of a selection so I ended up doing the traxxas power up swap and left with a 3.3 for $110. I know I could have bought a better motor online for the same price but I wanted to run today and I figure this way I can learn on the 3.3 and then keep it as a backup when i buy a new motor.

The 3.3 is night and day faster than the 2.5 and all the frustration I was having tuning the 2.5 must have been due to it being worn out or having a bad air leak somewhere. This 3.3 tunes great and runs super strong.

Problem is now I found then next weak link. I dont know what its called but the large nut behind the wheel that the wheel centers on started spinning inside the wheel and kinda melted the two together. Then there is a pin than holds it in place and the whole mess kinda just violently disassembled itself :)
 
That would be the wheel hex, the 2.5 revo uses a 14mm plastic hex and if the wheel nut gets the slightest bit loose...well you see the result.
If you didnt strip out the wheel also just get new hexes and keep the nuts tight.
 
Snook Man said:
That would be the wheel hex, the 2.5 revo uses a 14mm plastic hex and if the wheel nut gets the slightest bit loose...well you see the result.
If you didnt strip out the wheel also just get new hexes and keep the nuts tight.
Click to expand...

Nope the wheel is toast as well.

I was looking at a set of big joe tires but they say they are mounted on 17mm hexes. What exactly do I need to be able to mount the 17mm hexes? I am planning on running rpm arms with tekno carriers in the near future so I want anything I use to be compatible with that.

Thanks
 
Man this stupid free revo is getting expensive! I am into for almost $400 and havent really bought any hop-up parts yet.
 
Big joes will stress the every drivetrain and steering part on the rig. The lighter the wheel/tire combo the better the rig will perform usually. Makes for less broken parts as well. How are you into it $400 already? That's the cost of a new one damn near.
 
Metalhead Matt said:
Big joes will stress the every drivetrain and steering part on the rig. The lighter the wheel/tire combo the better the rig will perform usually. Makes for less broken parts as well. How are you into it $400 already? That's the cost of a new one damn near.
Click to expand...

Ok then what tire/wheel combo do you recommend? I am looking at just buying some 17mm take-offs on ebay for $25

As for the $400 lets see ...

Fuel, glow plug, starter battery and charger - $100
Broken motor mount from the first crash - $25
3.3 motor upgrade - $120
Not being able to get the stupid header bolt tight and breaking a header - $25
Not putting loc-tite on the motor mount and stripping the spur gear - $15
17mm adapters and wheels and tires - $100
various odd and ends - $25

just a touch over $400
 
Shop online and you can cut that cost in half. I like 3.2 Mashers. Proline makes a bunch of nice tires. They'll cost ya though. New stock revo tires and wheels work decent and can be had for around 40 bucks shipped. Can't count the cost of fuel into the parts cost. It'll drive you crazy.:)
 
I like the look of the axial beadlocks but I dont know if I need new tires or if my stockers will work on those wheels. These are the wheel (http://axialracing.com/details.php?Id=3297)

I just bash in the back yard so I dont care about tire to much right now. If the stockers will work on these wheels that will atleast get me running again.

Thanks!

---------- Post added at 7:05 PM ---------- Previous post was at 7:05 PM ----------

I Know I can get stuff cheaper online but I wanted to run it today and I didnt want to wait for parts and the LHS is 15 minutes away.
 
I hear ya. It's worth paying more to get rippin faster sometimes. The axial bead locks are good rims. It's really up to your budget when it comes to setting a truck up. But big heavy tires turn your 3.3 back into a 2.5.:) You'll notice your steering not be as responsive which will require a stronger steering servo. Axles will wear and break faster. All that good stuff. Shop around for tires and post em up. Somebody will fill ya in. If you go with something that's just a little bigger and heavier, a smaller clutchbell will get the performace back. You'll play hell getting your stock tires off of the rims. It's doable though. Heating them in an oven makes the glue brittle allowing you to get em off easier.
 
Ahh didnt realize the glue was that strong ... Think I am just gonna go with some 17mm revo/tmaxx takeoffs and some 17mm adapters.

As for suspension any tips there. The wheels on this thing wobble so bad I think they are going to fall off and the suspension in general just needs a little work in my opinion. I was thinking RPM true trac in the rear and the rpm arms in the front. Are the RPM carriers a good choice for a basher or would I be better with the tekno carriers?
 
I just went the whole hog with rpm gear on my revo - rpm true track rear, front arms & carriers, rpm front bumper mount, trx alloy pushrods & steering links.

Bashing at a skate park last night & getting pretty brutal with it I didn't bust anything, wheras a mate who was taking it a lot easier broke a rear A arm, a front carrier & bent a pushrod.

Actually, not quite true, I broke a pushrod end, head on collision - we were racing laps around the park & there is a crossover point, I was 1/2 a lap ahead & we had a rather massive head on at the crossover. He popped a ball joint out, bent the pushrod, broke the pushrod end & broke the front carrier, I just broke the pushrod end.

So yeah, the rpm stuff is damn near indestructable! But get some spare pushrod ends, they become the weak link (not a bad thing, best if there is a cheap, easy to replace weak link to save busting more expensive stuff).

The wheels wobble is the stock 14mm plastic wheel hexes, going to the 17mm alloy hexes & new wheels will fix it.
 
Thanks for that info ... I just shredded two more 14mm hexes so the 17mm and wheels are a must at this point.

I think I am just going to go with all RPM parts and later if I dont like the carriers I can get the tekno carriers.
 
Well just picked up these pre mounted pro-line trenchers and then 17mm hex adapters.

Hopefully that will stop that problem. I am worried about what is going to break or strip after I get this weak link fixed. Oh well I guess that is just all part of the game.
 
I know everyone has seen a dirty bone stock revo but figured pictures always make threads better. Also this way I can keep it updated with the mods as I do them.

Here it is with the very used stock body on it:
photo4.webp


A couple with the body off:

photo2.webp

photo1.webp


And the "NEW" 3.3 that already has almost a full gallon through it in 2 days:)
photo3.webp


And finally the windows I cut out of the body to help with airflow:
photo5.webp


As you can see the area between the two windows was a weak point and broke on the first rollover. I am going to order a new body and I have some ideas for windows that I think will be pretty cool.
 

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