• Welcome to RCTalk! 🚀

    Join the #1 RC community where hobbyists connect, share, and get expert advice on RC cars, trucks, boats, drones, and more!

    • Friendly & passionate RC enthusiasts
    • RC tips & troubleshooting
    • Buy, sell & trade RC gear
    • Share builds & upgrades

In two years, I've never run a failsafe....

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

KMN

RCTalk Talkaholic
Messages
267
Reaction score
0
Points
0
RC Driving Style
Nothing too bad has happened, but I'm getting paraniod(Especially when the remote is in a friends hand...my brother ran the brick into a storm gutter tonigh, and it was a bitch to get it outta there....)

Pro's/Con's of running/not running a failsafe?
 
Not running one is like not having auto insurance. It just gives you that piece of mind you wouldnt otherwise have.

Yes, you will want to run with a 6v battery pack (nimh over nicd but you could use either) 1,000mah minimum. When running with regular AA's they can falsely engage if the voltage starts to drop on the regular batt's.

I have one in every ride I have. :thumbsup:
 
What do they do?

Do they kill the engine? Or do they keep the ride from shooting off full throttle at whatever it's aimed at when the batts die?
 
I've never run a electronic failsafe, and have yet to regret it.

I've also never run without a throttle return spring "failsafe", and have yet to regret it. The cheap and effective throttle return spring has saved me a couple of times, but not from anything catestrophic.

All I can say about failsafes is think about how much time and money you have invested in your hobby. If you are comfortable running without at least a little insurance, then you must have some pretty deep pockets.
 
You can rig failsafes to engage when the batteries go low or when you get radio interference...the only downside is that if you turned the receiver on but didn't move the on switch all the way, if it turns off the failsafe won't work. That's where if you have a throttle return spring, that will work.

But throttle return springs just go to idle so your brakes don't kick in like a failsafe...but its better than nothing at all
 
If you set up the return spring in the right location, you can get it to engage the brakes also. But that is a matter of preference and servo location.
 
Like setting it on the brake?

You know i bought throttle return spring and had to rig both springs and it robbed a lot from the servo...so I took it off...maybe if I get a high torque and better batteries (I think i've got generic ones)
 
No, like setting on the servo arm so that it has enough pull to pull the servo through a "closed throttle" setting to an "apply brake" setting. I run two springs on my Fantom with stock TRAXXAS steering servo doing throttle duty...it works just fine with no degrade to throttle performance.

If you'd like a diagram of the brake application type spring set-up (which I do not run), I'm sure I can draw one up for you.
 
Oh, I think that's the way I had mine rigged up...I know what you're talking about...only problem is I have generic $15 servos(I think). So they don't agree with the spring...I had to turn the servo on high so it would have enough juice to go full throttle...
 
Back
Top