Important Revo Information!

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Lexington, KY
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Flushing your fuel tank.

We have seen a few tanks that had plastic material inside. I suspect it came from threading in the fuel hose nipple or from when the tank filter was installed. Here is the deal with plastic particles! They can block your high speed needle seat. If they are small enough to get through there (That is the smallest restriction in the carburetor) they will go to the combustion chamber. Once there they will instantly make a plug useless. Here is where it gets a bit tricky. The plug will glow bright red or orange when you test it but once it has the plastic on it, it will not start the engine.

It is pretty easy to fix. Remove the fuel hose from the carburetor. Block the exhaust with your finger tip. Push the starter button and flush about an oz. or two through the hose to clear it. Remove the tank. Shake it up a bit to loosen anything that might be inside and dump the fuel. Remove the high speed needle.

Important note here. Remove only the high speed needle, not the needle housing. Turn it counter clockwise (just like you are adjusting it) until it comes out.

Blast out the housing with compressed air or R/C motor spray. (Protect your eyes) This will clear the needle seat. Hook everything back up and reset your HSN to the factory 4 turn setting. Get rid of any contaminated plugs. Install a brand new plug and try it again.

If your truck has never been started then it is easy to simply remove the hose from the carburetor and flush it out as described above. This is a quick thing to do to prevent a possible problem!

Brake pads coming off

If you have a problem with brake pads coming apart give us a call!

Here is a quick solution! The only good way to bond the brake friction inserts to the aluminum holders is with high temperature RTV (silicone), black is preferred. To re-bond the pads, clean the pads and holders thoroughly with alcohol or motor spray. Be sure to remove all the old silicone (sand paper, hobby knife, wire brush may be needed), then apply fresh high temp RTV to the aluminum holders. Very little RTV is needed. (NOTE: Don't use CA. It will ruin the pad. If you have already tried CA, you need new parts.) Three little dabs of RTV are enough. The friction inserts should be firmly pressed into the holder so there is no gap between the pad and holder. A small amount of RTV may just squeeze out around the edges. Let the RTV dry for a few hours. Reinstall and adjust the pad-disk total clearance to 0.5 mm.

Wheel Nuts

Running the REVO wheel nuts too loose can damage the hubs, leading to parts failure. Check the wheel nuts to make sure they are tight; it is difficult (though not impossible) to over tighten them.

Slipper Clutch

The REVO slipper clutch has a wear-in process that roughly coincides with the engine's break-in process. Until it has worn in the slipper will not have as much "grab" as it will later. After about a quart of fuel the clutch should be properly seated. Avoid adjusting the slipper clutch until it has finished seating.

It is better to have the slipper on the loose side rather than tight, in order to protect the transmission. It will not melt out like standard slippers can when run too loose. You can tell if the slipper is too loose because the engine revs will increase when the REVO shifts from 1st to 2nd.
Always adjust "from loose to tight". In other words, set it loose and start tightening up as needed.
Do not adjust the slipper clutch by tightening it all the way down and backing it off. If you tighten it too much you can crush the pressure plates.

Spur gear

The REVO spur gear is mounted with the writing "out", (away from the transmission). If you put it on backwards there will be reduced clearance between the spur and the slipper pressure plate. This may interfere with the air filter boot and/or clutch bell.


The Brakes must wear in the same way the slipper clutch does. The brakes will continue to get stronger as break-in proceeds.
After your first quart of fuel, the brakes should be adjusted this way: (All these methods will work)

Visual test: there should be minimal space between the spring and the brake arm when the throttle is at neutral.

Rolling test: roll the truck and slowly apply brakes - the truck should roll freely with no resistance from the brakes when TX is at neutral - the brakes should start to engage shortly after pushing the trigger forward.

Wiggle test: grab the brake spring on the adjuster loosely and attempt to wiggle it. There should be a bit of play. No play means the brakes are dragging. Too much play (more than 1/8") means the brakes are going to engage too late.


Do not move micro servos (or any servos for that matter) by hand. They are high-ratio servos and manual movement can strip the 2062 gear set.

Source: Traxxas
Wow! Hasn't even been on the shelves a month and already the disclaimer sheet hits the web. Definitely a wait and see on this particular TRAXXAS product, as far as I am concerned.
I knew this would be coming, that's why I always give something new about 6 months to get the bugs out.
Let someone else go through the recalls and when I get it the problems are over.
Man that's crazy. It looks like Traxxas hit a solid homerun with the new Revo, no quetions asked, then this pops up. Not that it still won't be a good truck, but seriously, this is ridiculous.
Come on Traxxas, get your act together!
Thats interesting. I am getting a couple of these as they came off the truck and had damage to the boxes as why I am getting them cheap. I normally get a couple to sell to kids that are getting into the hobby but can't afford them at 400 bux a pop. I was considering getting a couple. I have one now and the box is damaged but all in all the box is not opened at all. the othere ones I was told have punctures to being packed on the pallette incorrectly. I will have to get a copy of all the things to watch out for and print all of them out to warn the kids what to do before they run them.

thanks Woodie

I'm sure they were in really deep in costs and just had to release it but i think its the same with all trucks
All that stuff is normal for not building the kit imo. That is stuff I would have probably gone through before running it after owning a few RTR's and kits. RTR's are just not put together like I would do it. I have more time and I can pay more attention to detail. At the factory it's all about time is money. No big surprises in the list just normal wear in. Traxxas has to put stuff like this up as they have the biggest newbie market and while this is stuff we would easily figure out but to the new guy they need the walk through.
As with any other new main stream high demand r.c., it will have its issues.

Just like my Savage did (I had the first one that hit the hobby shop doors), so the Tranny Set screw, turnbuckles and hubs were all bad out of the box. Along with some other minor problems like stock wheels stripping to no end (notice how that issue just seemed to die with no resolve aside from it not happening any more) lol

At least they are being good enough about publishing it.

I still want one.
I have been crawling all over one for a few days, trying to plan a roll cage. It is very well designed. It looks like they fixed everything considered a weakness on the old one. And details like plastic chips in the tank I think are more normal than not.
scottm said:
I have been crawling all over one for a few days, trying to plan a roll cage. It is very well designed. It looks like they fixed everything considered a weakness on the old one. And details like plastic chips in the tank I think are more normal than not.

that's where you have been, damn you Scottm, damn you straight to hell! Um pics of wicked air please?
i think i got some plastic in my hsn today. It woudn't start and i noticed that no fuel wanted to go through the fuel line. After checking for air leaks i took the highspeed needle off and pumped a bunch of nitro through the system with my finger over the hsn casing. I worked fine after i did this :smoke:
Traxxas is also recalling the Rod Ends, If they are stretching and breaking call them and they will send you new ones.

The new ones the send are still breaking I have herd so alot of people are going to RD Racing Products for aluminum ones and are very happy.
today my revo was acting up it would go fine untill about wide open then it would stall and die.
akmadmaxx said:
today my revo was acting up it would go fine untill about wide open then it would stall and die.

That is almost a tell tail sign of being to lean on the HSN.
Check you air filter as well.

The major problem with the 2.5 is the air filter. It is too restrictive when brand new and oiled, and it only gets worse from there. A restricted air filter (it does take much on these) will give you a too rich feeling bog. Adjustments from the to lean it will only lead to over heating and a lean bog or dying like it is foul plug, which will happen when you are at the lean bog stage.

Clean your air filter, change your glow plug and start from there.

whatever was wrong has gone through it now and it is running awsome again!
now am i missing something here? doesn't the revo have a brass filter in the tank :idea: ?infact looking at mine here, sure it does :cheers: . dont think the plastic would make it thru there. anyhow just blowing out the lines should do the job then.just my :2cents:
Is the revo gas tank and the tmaxx 3.3 the same tank. I just returned one that would not start maybe this was why. I have not started the breakin for the new one yet.

Is the revo gas tank the same as the tmaxx 3.3? I just bought the tmaxx last week and during breakin it stopped running, i took it back to lhs and they couldn't get it started either, maybe plastic was the problem. I had them replace the truck with another, and have not started the breakin on the new one
how do I take off the clutch bell so I can put it on my new engine?
Badkitty said:
how do I take off the clutch bell so I can put it on my new engine?
You'll have to hold the flywheel with something and then just remove the screw. Or you can use a piston locking tool if you can find one at your LHS.
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