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I got a new hoss in the stable

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G

granjer

RCTalk Racer
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Sunny Phx.
RC Driving Style
  1. Bashing
  2. Racing
I bought my son an old T Maxx 1.5 today for $100. It shows it's age but starts easy, runs good and shifts. He's pretty happy with it. I think I'm gonna clean it up and reseal the engine, as it looks to be leakig fuel at the exhaust outlet/header pipe, and do some other things untill it dies or he kills it. My question is, whats a decent drop in power plant for this thing? and what parts are interchangable with more current models such as the 2.5 and 3.3 models? Any and all advice would be greatly appreciated. I'm new to the nitro scene and I"m having a blast cutting my teeth on these things. Cheers and Happy Easter to all.:)

Kevin
 
I would just upgrade to a 2.5 after it dies, and when he kills that one, a 3.3. Just work him up to handling the power.
 
I would also get the wider a arms and shafts to make it alittle wider like the 2.5 and the 3.3 and yeah i would try the 2.5 and then go to the 3.3 that way he and you can get used to the truck before you make it to insane on speed.... congrats and happy easter too
 
Thx guys.

Yeah, I let him drive my 3.3 in the park the other day. His first words were "Holy cow!" He said it was way fast and really sensitive in the steering. The grin on his face was priceless. I've been in RC's for quite a while but his is my first Nitro. As he crashes and breaks stuff, I"m going to upgrade to RPM stuff, never thought about needing longer shafts too. My only draw back is my LHS support is iffy at best. But there are a few around here, just have to drive more. As I get used to the people on here, I'll start tossin some pics up. Thx again gents. Keep the ideas comin' please. I"m takin notes.

P.S.

Taylor, will Revo spec shafts drop in? (with new arms of course) Or will I need to get new diffs too?
 
you will need new diff's for the revo driveshafts but if you go with the 2.5 shafts they should work.. the origional shafts will work but will brake quicker because they stracth out more the 2.5 shafts are probly your best bet so you don't have to change the diff.'s. The outputs on the diff's are off by just alittlebit.... I can relate to you I get my kids to drive the 3.3 everyso often and it's almost more fun then driven them yourself..... I have a classic with a 3.3 on it and my daughter wont drive it yet......
 
i also have a 1.5 t maxx that i have done alot of modifying to. if you have any questions on what i did feel free to ask, I've upgraded it to a os.18cv-rx motor(amazing power, wheelies on command, and is very reliable it starts up first try even on cold days), it was drop in but you wont be able to use the ez-start. i upgraded the pull start to a roto start and i love it, so easy. i also have the rpm wide arms on it, but i upgrade to the traxxas performance steel cvd's for the 3.3 maxx, takes some modifying to do but well worth it and looks amazing. you need to change out the axle carrier and bearings to 3.3 along with the toearms(i put the stock rear toe arms in the front and the 3.3 toe arms in the rear). any questions feel free to ask :-)
 
cool...

I broke it down today and put the front and rear assy. along with the chassis and trans in the cuda to remove years of oil and dirt. It came out looking brand new minus scratches. Lubed all nec. places and reassembled it. Steering seems really sluggish and seems like it should be turning sharper. I'm using a traxxas 2055 servo. Are you guys using a stronger/different one? Got him some rpm skid plates to replace the broken front bumper and other new odds and ends. It's almost as fun working on these things than it is driving them. A nice break from my regular 9 to 5. Whats the deal with the fuel tank plunger? seems pointless. Much obliged for the help guys. Pics to come. :)
 
I think its the traxxas 2055 i have in the classic and yeah it is alittle sluggish.. the 3.3's have the 2070 on them, and then I have the 2075 on my shlash i think the 2075 would be your best traxxas steeriing servo.
 
i upgraded mine to a futaba high torque servo, its pretty good and i can actually turn the front wheels with the truck not moving now, combined with the 1700mah hump pack i love it! i to cleaned most of my truck yesterday, the rear end of it was filthy so thats where i started, gotta finish it up today. traxxas had come out with a redesigned fuel tank that gets rid of the primer, i think the reason being was that it was leaking there and that it didnt really do much anyway. any lhs should have the redesigned tank. i have the full rpm skidplate set also, looks really good!
 
a tmaxx that has a primer???? havent seen one yet... the only one i have with a primer is my hpi rs4 3evo??? just curiouse...... the 2075 seems to work really well and it is water resistant.... I know i can't say water proof....

the cuda you must be talking about the hpi rs4???? the plunger doesn't seem to matter to mush but it primes the fuel line so you dont have to put your finger over the exhaust to prime it.. I still use the exhaust method on th hpi( i ask cause i have an hpi with a cuda top).
 
You guys are awesome...

livin' and learnin'. Can't get any better than that. LHS T'd me off today so I'm a lil' cranky. Off for a pint, Cheers!
 
what do you mean????? Normaly those type of guys are nice because without the customers there wouldnt be the hobby shops
 
well,

This was a chain store,,,,ok, Hobby Bench. I bought a 6v rechargable pack for my 3.3 and the plug wasn't correct. I tried to retrun it and he said it fits fine and "jammed" them together and fought me on the return. Now, I'm having cut out problems on my radio, but that's another thread.
 
Sorry to hear that and that is messed up considering all they have to do themselves is send it back to the company
 

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