Huge traction problems! And pics of my classic :)

[Scummer]

Well.. i've tried to run my RC300 in a newly paved parking lot, thinking the new tar might come in handy for stickyness. But man was i wrong.
Half throttle almost no problem. But at 3/4 to WOT it was almost impossible to go straight, since the car did 360s, 540s and 720s left and right.

Is there a way to make the tires more stickier?

Oh... btw.. a little picture of my classic which i revived 2 weeks ago.
I just had a bash, so its a little dirty. *hangs head in shame*

Thomas

 

[FastEddy]

Nice!
Unfortunately, New asphalt is petroleum rich. (Lots of oil) Short of melting your tires with a blowtorch theres not much you can do.

Find a new parking lot.

 

[Çh®i§tiªñ]

I'm with Eddy - I didnt know the exact reason for poopy traction at this new parking lot I ran at, I just knew that brand new paved or sealed parking lots SUCK for running. I go and hit the mall parking lots since they arent usually very well taken care of. And life is good again.

Dull gray and you are in :thumbup:

Nice ride man! Nice ride!

 

[kwong2001]

At my LHS where they race at, their parking lot is new. And sealed (I think) and everyone runs with normal tires and not foams. I guess no one has really been able to get foams to hook up right. I did run my r/c there for a minute with foams and did donuts like nobody's business

anyhow, when i did go see races even with normal tires though, they seemed to hook up pretty good, but then again, they do coat the track for extra traction....

 

[gthang]

As a new Nitro-er, i have yet to dial in my car, and even though i don't have foams, my car handles extremely well on regular pavement. New pavement like what you're talking about, i don't know, since we don't have much of it around here.

However, since rubber tires are more of a solid-like substance than sponge-like foams, the foams should, in theory, get better traction on brand-new asphalt.

Sometimes, it's the car itself that making it spin, not the tires. In a full-size car, with a ton of power, the car will spin easily. if your car has too much power for the traction available on hand, you'll spin out on slick surfaces.

 

[mcvickj]

Cool car Scummer. How old is that beauty?

 

[Scummer]

Originally posted by mcvickj
Cool car Scummer. How old is that beauty?

Its somewhere between 10 and 15 years. I do not recall correctly, since my bro-in-law got it, before i got married to his sister. He also doesn't remember the correct date he got it. He gave it to me then, since he gave up on making the car run again.

Oh, and this is the original engine also. I had to change piston, sleeve and conrod (old conrod was split in half when i received the car) and had to machine the clutchnut. The original clutchnut is not available anymore, so i took a slightly bigger one and had it milled down at work in the machine shop. So i guess you could call it slightly modified
But the engine runs like a champ even though i can't get any parts anymore, no matter what HS i ask.

Thomas

 

[RobH]

Scummer, man i found your problem:

Originally posted by Scummer
Break-in? You are supposed to break-in an engine? 8-0

LOL :jk: that's a nice vintage rc. i have a nitro hawk at home and i thought that was old. welcome to the forum.
-Rob

 

[nitrohead]

RE - I think it is an rc250

Scummer - If your car does not have a diff in the rear then it is a rc 250. Not having a diff is why you can't get hooked up. I had a rc300 it did not look like yours, I think its a 250 try to find a diff for it.

 

[Scummer]

Oh, its a 250? Darn... i believed it was a 300. Since it didn't really say anywhere in the instructions. The instructions where for a 250/300 i think, so i thought it was a 300.
Hmm.. i don't think its possible to get that diff anymore since parts are really hard to come by.

EDIT: I just checked my instruction manual and it does say RC300 and it actually shows pics of the car completely assembled and partially assembled and there is no diff. The clutch bells teeth are connected right to the big 52 teeth spur gear (spelling?) and solid axle.
END EDIT

I think after i gained my experience with tuning a nitro engine and driving without crashing and spinning i will move on to a Kyosho MP7.5. I have had an eye on this buggy for so such a long time now and i need something that my 5 year old son can't destroy :marshall:

The RC300 is a nice and damn fast car, but its also much more fragile.

BTW.. i love this forum

Thomas

 

[gthang]

Scummer, you'll find that this site can help your problems if any, and we welcome new members.

Welcome Aboard.

I have a HPI Nitro RS4 3 Type SS, but my doesn't work as well as everybody else's, so i post the problems and the replies are starting points to solve the problems. Soon, men, soon...

 

[RobH]

Originally posted by Scummer

I think after i gained my experience with tuning a nitro engine and driving without crashing and spinning i will move on to a Kyosho MP7.5. I have had an eye on this buggy for so such a long time now and i need something that my 5 year old son can't destroy :marshall:

nice pick for a new rc. the 1/8 buggies are fast and fun. if you have a track that races them, they are even more fun.

 

[nitrohead]

I had an rc 300 the difference between the two cars was the 300 had a diff the 250 did not if you want it to run get a diff. It does not matter what the instructions say about it being a rc 250/300 get a diff look on e-bay put an ad in the classfieds stating that you are looking for a diff. Good luck.

 

[Scummer]

Originally posted by nitrohead
I had an rc 300 the difference between the two cars was the 300 had a diff the 250 did not if you want it to run get a diff. It does not matter what the instructions say about it being a rc 250/300 get a diff look on e-bay put an ad in the classfieds stating that you are looking for a diff. Good luck.

I found the diff for the RC250 to turn it into a RC300.

Its part # 2850

Thanks for the tip, now i have to order it and hopefully its available somewhere :ahh:

Thomas