HPI Super Nitro RS4 car...Is this a deal???

[phxccw]

How does this deal sound??? What would you pay for it? Please help quick.

"HPI Super Nitro RS4 car with every possible hop up even the boost bottle kit. The entire car has been upgraded with annodized alluminum, all carbon fiber supports, I also have every replacement part and in some cases multiple parts. Included is a starter box, remote, Spur gears, clutch bells, 15 replacement belts, This car with the two speed in it and the boost kit I have installed will hit 75mph"

 

[cvec7]

Pics???Link???Price???

 

[itsme]

Pics???Link???Price???

Yes more info please!

 

[phxccw]

No pics yet...but 300-400ish???

 

[Diver6127]

My question is what engine is in it and how do you know it will hit our claimed speed of 75mph? My brother has one (rally version) and has upgraded it to the 2 speed and got rid of the nitrostar .15 for a better mill. It was a bear to run and never had the speed.

 

[phxccw]

I'll find out what engine is in it I think it's the stock one. Does anyone know about the so called boost kit? Are these cars dependable or will I constantly be working on it???

 

[Diver6127]

I take it you are the potential, purchasing party based on your boost question.

A boost bottle is a cylinder that just collects the overflow of fuel that comes in after a full throtle application. It is supposed to keep the fuel flow consistant and keep the engine from hesitating due to a bogging situation. It's a good concept on paper but the higher chance of airleaks is what keeps me away. ALSO, if he did the boost upgrade himself, that means he had to drill into the block and tap it himself. I don't trust anyone other than the manufacturer for that kind of mod.

The HPI Supernitro is an "ok" car but is also discontinued. There are still parts readily available but as I said, the car is a bear to run and try to get up to speed. It's also a supersized 1/10. It takes the bigger sized bodies (280-300mm) not the 200mm touring car bods.

In all honesty, I'd say to pass on the deal. for the $400, you can get a readily available RTR that is well supported online and by the LHS.

BTW, if it is the stock engine ... IT WILL NOT HIT 75 mph even at the leanest of conditions. I know that for a fact.

 

[itsme]

How does this deal sound??? What would you pay for it? Please help quick.

"HPI Super Nitro RS4 car with every possible hop up even the boost bottle kit. The entire car has been upgraded with annodized alluminum, all carbon fiber supports, I also have every replacement part and in some cases multiple parts. Included is a starter box, remote, Spur gears, clutch bells, 15 replacement belts, This car with the two speed in it and the boost kit I have installed will hit 75mph"

The more i sit and read this the more i wonder are you looking to purchase this car or are you selling this car the references to (I) as in you,are throwing me off here a bit could you clarify.

 

[phxccw]

I'm the potential buyer...I know very little about other RC cars other than my Savage and I wanted to get into road cars. So I was debating on electric or this nitro. I don't know that much about it other than what I explained, but I will ask more questions now.

Thanks.

 

[Diver6127]

Electrics take a lot of maintainance as well. Stick with nitro unless you're willing to spend at least another $400 (MINIMUM). The NTC3 RTR is a nice car to get if you're starting out. Easily upgradeable and lots of support.

 

[cvec7]

I take it you are the potential, purchasing party based on your boost question.

A boost bottle is a cylinder that just collects the overflow of fuel that comes in after a full throtle application. It is supposed to keep the fuel flow consistant and keep the engine from hesitating due to a bogging situation. It's a good concept on paper but the higher chance of airleaks is what keeps me away. ALSO, if he did the boost upgrade himself, that means he had to drill into the block and tap it himself. I don't trust anyone other than the manufacturer for that kind of mod.

The HPI Supernitro is an "ok" car but is also discontinued. There are still parts readily available but as I said, the car is a bear to run and try to get up to speed. It's also a supersized 1/10. It takes the bigger sized bodies (280-300mm) not the 200mm touring car bods.

In all honesty, I'd say to pass on the deal. for the $400, you can get a readily available RTR that is well supported online and by the LHS.

BTW, if it is the stock engine ... IT WILL NOT HIT 75 mph even at the leanest of conditions. I know that for a fact.

Uh, no, no, no. You do not always have to drill the block. Especially on the 15FE engine. And, yes it does boost your speed....IF you install it right. I had one on my rush and got an extra 5mph out of it.... There's a very specific way of installing it to get extra speed, it is not its intended way of installing it, but you can get the extra speed. And, NO it doesn't lean out the engine... I had a MIP one on my rush, so I KNOW.

 

[Diver6127]

Never said it leans the engine, it takes the overflow and gives it a place to go instead of runing it with a temporary rich condition. And yes you are correct, some kits don't require drilling the block. Some ust a different backplate with a nipple.

The speed comes from a smoother fuel flow via he boost bottle. Bogging is a rich condition.

 

[phxccw]

Electrics take a lot of maintainance as well. Stick with nitro unless you're willing to spend at least another $400 (MINIMUM). The NTC3 RTR is a nice car to get if you're starting out. Easily upgradeable and lots of support.

Please explain...

 

[Diver6127]

Which do you need explaining for, electric or the NTC3?

 

[phxccw]

"unless you're willing to spend at least another $400 (MINIMUM). "

The electric $400 statement.
thx

 

[Diver6127]

Electrics take maintainance. It's not just charge and go. Motors need to be cut on a comm lathe every so often when performance drops. Stick packs can be used but for true performance requires you to buy or build packs. Maintaining these batteries reuire a good charger and good chargers require a 12v power source. To be drained ou need a discharger and an equalizer to have a good start to evenly charge them. Soldering iron if you do a direct connection. Power inverter if you take it to the field and use the iron. All this adds up. You can go cheaper on stuff and certain items but it'll be at least $400 to get the things needed to run tese cars well, consistantly. My brother and I spent about a grand to get the supporting equipment when we race our electrics.

 

[kwong2001]

BTW, if it is the stock engine ... IT WILL NOT HIT 75 mph even at the leanest of conditions. I know that for a fact.

Just to add, even with an upgraded engine/exhaust and the best top end gears available, the car STILL won't do 75mph. There is no way to hit 75mph without getting custom gears.

 

[Diver6127]

That is true too. Unless it's in the trunk of a car going 75 mph

 

[phxccw]

That is true too. Unless it's in the trunk of a car going 75 mph

Too funny.

 

[Carbon_Savage418]

i think the stock top speed is 27, i think i saw it on hpis site the other day, and if the engine is still stock your not gonna be hitting 75