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tbhause21

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I have a all in $600 budget. I really like the Arrma Kraton 4s but do I need to upgrade a bunch so should I go 6s or just got with the Traxxas Rustler?
Thanks
 
def
I have a all in $600 budget. I really like the Arrma Kraton 4s but do I need to upgrade a bunch so should I go 6s or just got with the Traxxas Rustler?
Thanks
definitely don't go with anything Traxxas unless you want a crawler, the parts look tough but they aren't when paired with the powerful stock motors.
 
I have a all in $600 budget. I really like the Arrma Kraton 4s but do I need to upgrade a bunch so should I go 6s or just got with the Traxxas Rustler?
Thanks
are you planning to race or bash?
 
if you're planning to race I'd go with a Tekno buggy instead
 
Just ripping around the neighborhood no racing.
 
def

definitely don't go with anything Traxxas unless you want a crawler, the parts look tough but they aren't when paired with the powerful stock motors.

This is 100% false information. I've had, as many others have, multiple Traxxas rigs. The parts were just as durable as any other big name brand out there. It all comes down to the person holding the radio at the end of the day. I can destroy the diffs (and other parts) on pretty much anything in a few battery packs, or make them last a really long time. No different than a real 1:1 car/truck really.
 
I love my Traxxas rigs. I agree with @HPIguy depending how hard you drive it will determine the life of the parts.
 
If I go with the Kraton 4s do I need to do things to it right out of the box or just open and start rippin?
 
This is 100% false information. I've had, as many others have, multiple Traxxas rigs. The parts were just as durable as any other big name brand out there. It all comes down to the person holding the radio at the end of the day. I can destroy the diffs (and other parts) on pretty much anything in a few battery packs, or make them last a really long time. No different than a real 1:1 car/truck really.
they aren't as durable, their quality is way lower too.
 
they aren't as durable, their quality is way lower too.


Ok, I'll bite. How many different RC vehicles in total have you owned? And from that number what were the brands you have owned? We need to establish your sample size to see whether or not your durability experiment was conducted properly. Also, how many RC drivers were participating in the study? Hopefully more than one to cover all the different driving styles/types. Also, I'm hoping this was a double-blind study to eliminate statistical errors.
 
Ok, I'll bite. How many different RC vehicles in total have you owned? And from that number what were the brands you have owned? We need to establish your sample size to see whether or not your durability experiment was conducted properly. Also, how many RC drivers were participating in the study? Hopefully more than one to cover all the different driving styles/types. Also, I'm hoping this was a double-blind study to eliminate statistical errors.
first off, I'm basing my opinion off other people's experience, not mine. second, you don't need to do any official study to say that things like traxxas's plastic driveshafts aren't as strong as Arrma's steel driveshafts. . .
 
Ok, I'll bite. How many different RC vehicles in total have you owned? And from that number what were the brands you have owned? We need to establish your sample size to see whether or not your durability experiment was conducted properly. Also, how many RC drivers were participating in the study? Hopefully more than one to cover all the different driving styles/types. Also, I'm hoping this was a double-blind study to eliminate statistical errors.
also, I spent over $100 on replacement stub axles for my shall 4x4 withing 2 months of owning it and then I bought some Tekno steel driveshafts for it and I haven't had a single problem with the driveshafts or stub axles breaking since.
 
first off, I'm basing my opinion off other people's experience, not mine. second, you don't need to do any official study to say that things like traxxas's plastic driveshafts aren't as strong as Arrma's steel driveshafts. . .

Going off of zero first-hand experience while making blanket statements like you did is a big no-no. That ends up with the sky is falling mentality if enough people are doing it. It's well known that anyone that is happy with a product will be out enjoying their product while those few with issues will shout it from every mountain top. And originally this was not what you said, you simply said their parts don't hold up to the stock drivetrains they put in them. Whereas myself, and many others haven't had any issues. Again, it comes down to who's holding the radio, and their driving style along with things like slipper adjustments, etc.

also, I spent over $100 on replacement stub axles for my shall 4x4 withing 2 months of owning it and then I bought some Tekno steel driveshafts for it and I haven't had a single problem with the driveshafts or stub axles breaking since.

So, now you're saying you do have first-hand experience? Which is it? It sounds to me like you need to learn to adjust your slipper, and some throttle control more than spending money constantly trying to fix the issue. If you're constantly blowing axles, and most people aren't, then the issue isn't with the parts themselves. I've had Slashes, Revos, mini Revos, and a Pede and never had these problems. But, I'm a sample size of 1 (same as you), so it's not a huge sample group to go off of.
 
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Going off of zero first-hand experience while making blanket statements like you did is a big no-no. That ends up with the sky is falling mentality if enough people are doing it. It's well known that anyone that is happy with a product will be out enjoying their product while those few with issues will shout it from every mountain top. And originally this was not what you said, you simply said their parts don't hold up to the stock drivetrains they put in them. Whereas myself, and many others haven't had any issues. Again, it comes down to who's holding the radio, and their driving style along with things like slipper adjustments, etc.



So, now you're saying you do have first-hand experience? Which is it? It sounds to me like you need to learn to adjust your slipper, and some throttle control more than spending money constantly trying to fix the issue. If you're constantly blowing axles, and most people aren't, then the issue isn't with the parts themselves. I've had Slashes, Revos, mini Revos, and a Pede and never had these problems. But, I'm a sample size of 1 (same as you), so it's not a huge sample group to go off of.
my gosh bro, can't I have first-hand experience with one car and not another? and can't I "take someone else's word for it" (as the expression goes) while having had my own experience/thoughts? Also, I'm pretty sure I'm not the only one "blowing" stub axles, there's a reason other companies like Tekno and MIP are able to make a profit from making steel driveshafts, if the stock stub axles don't tend to break then people wouldn't buy so many steel driveshafts.
 
def

definitely don't go with anything Traxxas unless you want a crawler, the parts look tough but they aren't when paired with the powerful stock motors.

Dont know mate? I have a Rustler 4x4 and A Slash 4x4. The Later running on 4s.
It’s Had some bad tumbles and Survived, I’ve Also Aquaplaned full speed Into a Metal post which did cause some damage. I find in near freezing weather , plastic is very brittle RPM parts help. Unlike my Senton who’s shocks leak for running it on flat grass.
likewise a heavy crash will break it too .
 
Get an arrma or the losi tenacity pro?or both ?

There’s a couple of things with the Tenacity db pro, The tyres are cheap glue on, Not Beadlock like my Older SCBE, There is No waterproof receiver box where’s the cheap Tenacity does have, the Servo is Pants, The Drive shafts Look very Skinny as opposed to my older SCBE,
A Plastic toP chassis brace. But metal everything else ? Why?? It’s a Bit Over priced The Smart features can only be used with Smart Batteries . ? for the Money it could have been a little better that’s all.
 
Dont know mate? I have a Rustler 4x4 and A Slash 4x4. The Later running on 4s.
It’s Had some bad tumbles and Survived, I’ve Also Aquaplaned full speed Into a Metal post which did cause some damage. I find in near freezing weather , plastic is very brittle RPM parts help. Unlike my Senton who’s shocks leak for running it on flat grass.
likewise a heavy crash will break it too .
nice, I agree that when you crash the cars hold up well. I was showing off my slash 4x4 in a parking lot and didn't see a curb which I hit at 33MPH, the car was perfectly fine and it did a perfect backflip. If both of y'all don't have problems then I'll say it's just my driving. my slash's stock shocks leaked on flat grass too, the threading on the caps broke from that.
 
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