Heisenburg HPE005 Rat Rod Dragster

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New England
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  1. Racing
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Proline Rat Rod body. Wanted to do 4 years ago, but would not fit my Rustler. So I returrned it. Now, having built a dragster with longer wheelbase, it was the first body I thought of. Too beautiful to race, but trust me, it's got it where it counts. Running a Traxxas Velineon 3s for now. Canary yellow, I had an idea for the doors, a grim reaper holding up a royal flush in his front hand, a sickle in the other, his head listing backwards in a laugh. I am saving that for a funny car body for serious racing, this one is to pick up the nephews for a Sunday outing to where ever they want light hearted kind if theme. Headlites, tail lights, the exhaust strobes on acceleration, ESS dual sound system rumbles to the tune of a 1969 427 Yenko Camaro.

oo7Chris asked me to build him a dragster, so he got the LCG Slash chassis, and a bunch of parts, then tasked me to assemble it. Got it together and delivered it. I later acquired the car in a trade. It has a mostly red theme. Red aluminum front knuckles, casters, steering linkage, shock tower up front, Hot Racing metal driveshafts, differential filled with 50 weight oil, Proline Power stroke rear shocks (note the index marks) all 4 shocks filled with 50 weight, Hoosier Drag tyres, dual cooling fans and heat sink for the engine, ESC cooling fan, aluminum wheelie bar fitted with Traxxas aluminum wheelie bar wheels with rubber tyres, Bandit control arms front and rear, Bandit toe and camber links front and rear, STRC hinge bolts for control arms, carbon fibre front brace, and a Rustler front bumper "goatee", bent in a vise to angle the in coming air up over the front bulkhead and lower steering "basement". Have 3 front spoilers available in different sizes, if regulations allow. Stainless steel screws hold it all together.
For throw down racing, the engine sound box, exhaust module, and cooling fans may be removed, wheelie bar adjusted, and front spoiler may be attached, all of these tasks with a 2.5 mm allen wrench. I might carry drag slicks in my pocket when cruising the park in case anyone wants to drag (Think of the guys from 2 Lane Blacktop, 1971, whenever someone challenged them to a race, they would take out a jack and slicks from the trunk), as I am not sure I should cruise with the Hoosiers on, given the weird alignment angles.

I have questions, hope the community can help, but it is bed time for now.
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Whats your questions??
I got to remember to ask my questions. One I can think of off hand is where can I get cheap drag slick tyres? Just cruising down the street with those has got to be chewing them up with that wacky alignment.
STRC makes some 1 degree arms. There's another brand that allows adjusting toe as well.
I need that. I need that. Is it the arm mounts under the transmission, or the arms themselves? Adjustable would be good.
I have a solution for cheap slicks PM me
Question thought of, what gears should I run for street cruising, and what should I run for drag race?
Does anyone know where I can get a "Variety pack" of small gears, and what "flywheel" should I keep in stock? Also asking this question for RWD Rustlers road racers and a circle track Slash HCG I am building
Is your transmission the Traxxas standard 2.72?

The Drag Slash uses a 22T pinion and 76T spur.

In my 2WD Rash (Road-Slash), I'm running a 22/83 setup with a 3000kv motor.
That's a good question. I think i put some stock parts into an aluminum case. This car has a storied history, but the short of it is that it was sort of thrown together with the best parts from my spare parts drawer. I might buy a new transmission for the dragster, as this case has the rear wheels toed in too far, and probably needs a trans brake.
I need a "cooler running" gear set for cruising, and of course, a "throw-down" racing set.
The HCG Slash was built from scratch. I had collected enough spare parts, and had a Slash HCG frame, so I cleaned it all up, rebuilt the transmission, put in RPM control arms I had, and set everything up as bone stock. I got a hold of a Velineon 3500 motor and ESC.
But this question is about safe street gearing for long cruises, and having another set in my pocket in case I find some trouble in a parking lot, and need to be race ready