Glow plug starter?

[Cupofjoe5]

Anyone have issues or is it common for the glow plug starter to not hold a charge? I found that being the issue last night before i got it started, now today i went to start and again no start. So i came back home and i will check to see if the glow plug lights up. I jusy wonder if the starter could b the problem. Also, i had seen in another post about the glow plug needing to be screwed in loose not tight. Mine is tight, though it started fine last night eith it tightened. So... any help would b nice. Thanks guys

 

[olds97_lss]

I don't use heaters that have a dedicated/soldered on battery. I use an AA type heater and I always charge 2 before I go bash. Especially on "break-in" days. Glow heater cells take serious abuse, but I get at least a couple years out of a set of "precharged" energizer NiMH LSD AA's.

This is similar to what I use:
https://www.amazon.com/Igniter-Starter-Plugs-Nitro-Engine/dp/B00J49STSS/ref=cm_rdp_product

I charge the cell while it's in it with my normal charger at .5A or 1A. I stopped at radio shack and picked up a 1AA holder to charge it the same for my backup.

 

[watertrucker]

It's probably your glow ignitor. Mine uses a D cell battery and it seems to last a good long time. Sometimes on a new engine if the pinch is real tight it's easier to start with the glow loosened a little. You have already ran it some so you probably won't have do that. Here's my glow ignitor. Picked it up cheap at the local hobby shop. But they're on eBay, TowerHobbies, anywhere.

 

[WVNed]

I use 2 Du-Bro rechargables. You do have to charge them overnight once in a while.

 

[cbaker65]

Most glo-igniter with wall chargers are overnight chargers!....
An can be left on day in ,day out!.....ALL DAY LONG.......FOREVER!....

 

[Cupofjoe5]

I don't use heaters that have a dedicated/soldered on battery. I use an AA type heater and I always charge 2 before I go bash. Especially on "break-in" days. Glow heater cells take serious abuse, but I get at least a couple years out of a set of "precharged" energizer NiMH LSD AA's.

This is similar to what I use:
https://www.amazon.com/Igniter-Starter-Plugs-Nitro-Engine/dp/B00J49STSS/ref=cm_rdp_product

I charge the cell while it's in it with my normal charger at .5A or 1A. I stopped at radio shack and picked up a 1AA holder to charge it the same for my backup.

Is 7mm the typical glow plug size? I might need to get one of those.

View attachment 18971 It's probably your glow ignitor. Mine uses a D cell battery and it seems to last a good long time. Sometimes on a new engine if the pinch is real tight it's easier to start with the glow loosened a little. You have already ran it some so you probably won't have do that. Here's my glow ignitor. Picked it up cheap at the local hobby shop. But they're on eBay, TowerHobbies, anywhere.

Yeah wish i had a hobbytown close by.

 

[cbaker65]

Is 7mm the typical glow plug size? I might need to get one of those.



Yeah wish i had a hobbytown close by.

They are 8 mm or 5/16 standard!

 

[Cupofjoe5]

They are 8 mm or 5/16 standard!

Oh. So weird, my glow plug now wont light up. But earlier today it did, either the plug or the starter is goin in and out. I have the plug starter on charge again. I'm gonna give it a while then see if the plug works again.

 

[olds97_lss]

They are 8 mm or 5/16 standard!

Bah, it will fit. I have that one. Got it on ebay for like $5 shipped. Or one like it...

 

[Cupofjoe5]

Bah, it will fit. I have that one. Got it on ebay for like $5 shipped. Or one like it...

I just hope this damn thing will charge and start

 

[Cupofjoe5]

Yep its my damn glow plug starter/igniter whatever you call it lol. I charged it some, then checked the plug and it lit! Started er up. So I've noticed it idles high, i turn down the throttle trim on the transmitter. Then i turn the low speed needle counterclockwise or (richer) which sends idle higher and i csn use some brakes without it shutting off on me. But, what i had read was you dont want it trying to move or run away from you. When i turned the low speed idle counter tho it trys to slowly move away, and if i pick it up the wheels spin. Anyone?

 

[cbaker65]

Yep its my damn glow plug starter/igniter whatever you call it lol. I charged it some, then checked the plug and it lit! Started er up. So I've noticed it idles high, i turn down the throttle trim on the transmitter. Then i turn the low speed needle counterclockwise or (richer) which sends idle higher and i csn use some brakes without it shutting off on me. But, what i had read was you dont want it trying to move or run away from you. When i turned the low speed idle counter tho it trys to slowly move away, and if i pick it up the wheels spin. Anyone?

That's ok if it creeps forward a little ,just back the idle set screw off a tad!...
When you let off throttle ,is there still tension on the linkage rod itself ,because that maybe your whole
problem ,the linkage may not have enough play to allow the carb barrel to return to idle position!...

Oh ,get that damn igniter on the charger overnight when you go to bed!....

 

[Cupofjoe5]

That's ok if it creeps forward a little ,just back the idle set screw off a tad!...
When you let off throttle ,is there still tension on the linkage rod itself ,because that maybe your whole
problem ,the linkage may not have enough play to allow the carb barrel to return to idle position!...

Oh ,get that damn igniter on the charger overnight when you go to bed!....

That makes sense, ill have to check the linkage. Ill ease the screw off a little as well, lol lil eye poker. Definitely going to keep that sucker on charge!

 

[olds97_lss]

Until you get 6-10 tanks through the engine, don't worry so much about how it idles, just run it gently and get fuel through it while trying to keep it around 200f degrees.

Tune will calm down as it wears in. Then you can fuss with the idle and tune more.

 

[Cupofjoe5]

We

Until you get 6-10 tanks through the engine, don't worry so much about how it idles, just run it gently and get fuel through it while trying to keep it around 200f degrees.

Tune will calm down as it wears in. Then you can fuss with the idle and tune more.

So do i go leaner to get the temp up? Clockwise? To send less fuel, the temp goes between like 150 to 200 or 205..

 

[olds97_lss]

For the first tank or two, even with easy driving, you probably won't get to 200F. By tank 3-4, you should be able to start it easier and tune it a bit leaner (HSN/LSN clockwise, usually HSN) to get the temp up to 200F. Then you just drive and adjust tune to keep your temps above 200F and below 260F.

Between the first 5 tanks, you should run it as noted above (gently, ease up the throttle and ease off the throttle to about 1/2 throttle), then when the tank is empty, put the piston at the bottom of the cycle (BDC/bottom dead center) and let it cool to at least 80F before the next tank. Tanks 5-6, I usually run through without shutting down and cooling and setting to BDC. Tanks 7 on up to 10-12, still take it easy. Usually by the 12th tank, you've leaned it some to get the temps up and you can start running it harder for longer runs of WOT (wide open throttle).

Most engines are pretty well broken in and can be thrashed hard by the time you burn up a gallon. Small blocks (< .21ci) tend to break in faster with less tanks.

 

[Cupofjoe5]

For the first tank or two, even with easy driving, you probably won't get to 200F. By tank 3-4, you should be able to start it easier and tune it a bit leaner (HSN/LSN clockwise, usually HSN) to get the temp up to 200F. Then you just drive and adjust tune to keep your temps above 200F and below 260F.

Between the first 5 tanks, you should run it as noted above (gently, ease up the throttle and ease off the throttle to about 1/2 throttle), then when the tank is empty, put the piston at the bottom of the cycle (BDC/bottom dead center) and let it cool to at least 80F before the next tank. Tanks 5-6, I usually run through without shutting down and cooling and setting to BDC. Tanks 7 on up to 10-12, still take it easy. Usually by the 12th tank, you've leaned it some to get the temps up and you can start running it harder for longer runs of WOT (wide open throttle).

Most engines are pretty well broken in and can be thrashed hard by the time you burn up a gallon. Small blocks (< .21ci) tend to break in faster with less tanks.

How often do u check your engine temp? Just during break in mostly? Or are you supposed to check it all the time even when broken in? And lastly how do you get it bdc? Sorry so many ?'s, thanks

 

[olds97_lss]

Yes, you take temp periodically even after break in. Ambient temperature and general weather changes or terrain changes affect temp, so you check periodically throughout a bash session and adjust tune as needed.

You get used to what an engine sounds like when it's tuned ok over time. Also by keeping an eye on how much smoke comes out of the pipe. No smoke means lean. Or way too rich, usually lean though. You don't usually see much smoke the first few tanks due to it being so rich that it spews actual fuel out. Also, wind blows it away quickly, so sometimes smoke is tough to gauge by.

To see bdc, take your glowplug out, then rotate the flywheel until you see the piston at the bottom of the stroke. Then mark your flywheel by something stationary with nail polish or permanent marker so you can do it in the future without removing the glowplug.

I do it by feel now. Rotate over until I feel compression release, then keep going half a turn.

These engines create compression due to the sleeve inside the engine actually being tapered towards the top. It's called "pinch". New engines have a lot when hot or cold. Broken in engines have pinch when cold, but when the heat up to 200f+, the sleeve expands enough to reduce binding. A worn out engine has too little pinch to create compression when hot, then it's worn out.

In theory, by putting the piston at bdc always (during and after break-in), your helping to preserve the pinch.

 

[Cupofjoe5]

Yes, you take temp periodically even after break in. Ambient temperature and general weather changes or terrain changes affect temp, so you check periodically throughout a bash session and adjust tune as needed.

You get used to what an engine sounds like when it's tuned ok over time. Also by keeping an eye on how much smoke comes out of the pipe. No smoke means lean. Or way too rich, usually lean though. You don't usually see much smoke the first few tanks due to it being so rich that it spews actual fuel out. Also, wind blows it away quickly, so sometimes smoke is tough to gauge by.

To see bdc, take your glowplug out, then rotate the flywheel until you see the piston at the bottom of the stroke. Then mark your flywheel by something stationary with nail polish or permanent marker so you can do it in the future without removing the glowplug.

I do it by feel now. Rotate over until I feel compression release, then keep going half a turn.

These engines create compression due to the sleeve inside the engine actually being tapered towards the top. It's called "pinch". New engines have a lot when hot or cold. Broken in engines have pinch when cold, but when the heat up to 200f+, the sleeve expands enough to reduce binding. A worn out engine has too little pinch to create compression when hot, then it's worn out.

In theory, by putting the piston at bdc always (during and after break-in), your helping to preserve the pinch.

Gotcha, ill give this a shot when i get home today! Gotta get my temps up for sure. It was below 200 last night.

 

[Cupofjoe5]

Yes, you take temp periodically even after break in. Ambient temperature and general weather changes or terrain changes affect temp, so you check periodically throughout a bash session and adjust tune as needed.

You get used to what an engine sounds like when it's tuned ok over time. Also by keeping an eye on how much smoke comes out of the pipe. No smoke means lean. Or way too rich, usually lean though. You don't usually see much smoke the first few tanks due to it being so rich that it spews actual fuel out. Also, wind blows it away quickly, so sometimes smoke is tough to gauge by.

To see bdc, take your glowplug out, then rotate the flywheel until you see the piston at the bottom of the stroke. Then mark your flywheel by something stationary with nail polish or permanent marker so you can do it in the future without removing the glowplug.

I do it by feel now. Rotate over until I feel compression release, then keep going half a turn.

These engines create compression due to the sleeve inside the engine actually being tapered towards the top. It's called "pinch". New engines have a lot when hot or cold. Broken in engines have pinch when cold, but when the heat up to 200f+, the sleeve expands enough to reduce binding. A worn out engine has too little pinch to create compression when hot, then it's worn out.

In theory, by putting the piston at bdc always (during and after break-in), your helping to preserve the pinch.

Is it okay as i break it in to just hold it in the air while i throttle it? Or put it on a block and do it? Its just easier right now due to the weather.