Getting my Maxx to drive in a straight line.....

[mcvickj]

Well after 3 hours and some minor tuning issues my Maxx is running great. It feels like it has 3 times the power compared to when the old Pro .15 was in it. I can barely go past half throttle because the Maxx is hard to control.

When I mash the throttle from a dead stop the rear end snap out (most of the time to the right) and the front wheels jump off the ground a little. I have tried using the trim adjustment for the steering but it still doesn't help. Of course I am using a chevron type tire on pavement. I would guess this has a little something to do with it.

However if you look at my tires they are not straight and I am not sure what adjustments I need to make to correct this.

Here are some pictures that I took. I think it is pretty noticeable. Each picture was taken after I drove the Maxx around for a mintue and stopped it. So how you see it in the picture is the way it was when it stopped.

I also have a quick question on tuning. Should there always be a light trail of blue smoke? From a dead stop take off I will have some and when I am mid to wide open throttle I will have some. My temps were right around 250. For the blue smoke I would have to richen the mix right?

Also for the creative minds of RCNT. Please take a look at my other post that is located here

 

[El Pirata]

Toe in your rear wheels and your front ones a little too. Try that. Your wheels are most definately the source of your problems controlling your t-maxx.

 

[mcvickj]

How do I make that adjustment? Is that those two siliver screws I see when I take off my tire?

 

[Team 17]

U should always see a trail of blue smoke. And ur temp seems to be ok. Yes for the smoke u have to richen the mix.

 

[El Pirata]

Adjust your turnbuckles circled green in the attached pic. Remember to watch which way your tires are going as a result of your turning. For matter of clarification the turnbuckles are the roung long silver colored rods at the front and back. They are behind all 4 wheels. Hope this helps.

If one direction is making them go out further then switch to the other way, I forget which direction they are set ar stock but since you have upgraded a-arms it's likely that the original stock direction is no longer true.

 

[mcvickj]

I see. Thanks for the clarification with the pic EP. Do you know about the two silver screws I am talking about? What are those for?

 

[El Pirata]

Not sure, 2 silver screws describes quite a few screws on my T-Maxx and it's been over a year since it had any stock parts on it.

 

[mcvickj]

The two screws I am talking about are the ones that screw thru the hub into the a arms. I would take a pic but I am at work.

 

[Candyman]

The silver screws that screw through the hubs are actually the pillow ball retainers. You use those to set camber and width. Looks like your truck has a bunch of rear toe-out (that is, the front of the tire is farther out than the rear). You want to adjust those turnbuckles that El P circled so that the front of the tire points just 1-2 degrees inward. That should help a ton.

 

[Alein]

The 2 screws your talking about will adjust your camber. Which in turn changes the angle of your tires vertically.

 

[mcvickj]

Thanks for the into on the silver screws Candyman. I have tomorrow off from work so I will make those adjustments sometime tonight and try it again.

 

[nitro dave]

I too had the same problem, I tried adjusting the camber, but it didn't help much, not until I adjusted the turnbuckles did I correct the problem.

 

[HumboldtBlazer]

your toe links are bent. I went though at least 5 pair before I got the HolmWrecker ones. You can try to adjust them with the plastic ends by srewing them in or out more but I bet you their hosed. I could sometimes get away with just replacing the plastic ends as they were bent but it might be yor actual link bars.

The HolmWreckers are great except the guys a peepee but they have not bent, and look good. The con is they are set at zero toe in and they are not adjustable. If you need something else than zero toe in than get Ti toelinks.

 

[Mondo]

Rear toe

Agreed, those rear wheels are all over the place.
Titianium turnbuckles are great, if you can source them.
I keep a spare brand new set of the 2.5 turnbuckles in the pit box. Fortunately TRAXXAS got their act together, so sealed in the packet, they are set correctly for a quick change.
Beats trying to adjust front/rear toe in/out at the track, that job is better saved for the workbench.
I wonder if our freinds at Lunsford manufacture Titanium turnbuckles for the MAXX TRX and TRX 2.5? May well be worth investigating.

The default setting for the TRX 2.5 is 0° front toe-in and 1° rear toe-in. I am unsure about the TRX 1.5 though!

Most road racers, myself included use toe-in/out and camber gauges on the road cars, I am unsure if there is one available for monster trucks, I'll be looking out for some myself.
Those gauges can save you a fortune in time and effort when it comes to tuning the wheel geometry.

Good luck with the setup and let us know if you get it all worked out.

 

[El Pirata]

They make a gauge for that. Is the calibrated eye good enough?

 

[Çh®i§tiªñ]

I use the RPM gauge on all of my rides. I always do the fronts with the transmitter on and the steering likage centerred/servo horn centerred.

If you can, use just a set of rims (thats my preferred method - thanks Eddy!)

The gauge takes a lot of guess work out of it and if you have stadium trucks, onroads or buggies, they are a necessity anyhow.

Set your MT's at 0 and 0 for the feel of it. Then make 1 degree adjustments from there.

 

[El Pirata]

I say again, there's a gauge?

 

[Çh®i§tiªñ]

http://www.rpmrcproducts.com/products/tools/hires/7099.htm

One of the most critical adjustments on a R/C vehicle is the vehicle’s camber. RPM has proven time after time that even the most experienced drivers cannot set their camber by eye. With our Camber Gauge, novice to professional drivers alike can set their camber on all wheels to less than one degree of accuracy! Once camber has been set and documented, this gauge will be able to tell you if a crash has affected your camber! When used in conjunction with 7049 toe-in gauge, you’ll gain a distinct advantage over anyone that does not have our gauges! Other manufacturers have camber fixtures available but RPM’s gauge is the only one that allows you to do trackside checks in a matter of seconds!
70992 Precision Camber Gauge
Suggested Retail $9.95

********
Toe in gauge (you can simply use a ruler here)

http://www.rpmrcproducts.com/products/tools/hires/7049.htm

If you are simply a hobbyist that enjoys R/C vehicles or an all out R/C racer or anywhere in between, this tool is a must for your toolbox! Our gauge allows you to do trackside checks of the toe-in without removing the wheels! Our gauge checks toe through the simple method of comparing the width of the wheels at the rear of the tire to the width of the wheels at the front of the tire! Our gauge is accurate to within one half of a degree per side and closer! Also can be used to check legal width of off-road buggies and trucks. Now available with a second hole to check narrower vehicles such as sedans!
70492 Toe-In Gauge
Suggested Retail $9.95

 

[SkyMaxx]

Talk about extreme...this must be a racer thing. I set my camber and toe in using the MK 1 MOD 0 eyeball, and have yet to have any problems. BUT then again I am only a basher.

 

[wdavidhicks]

So those skinny little alignment wheels would be a plus when adjusting camber, right? I wouldn't think you could trust the trueness of the tire on the wheel when you adjust camber. Especially if it were a broken-in bashing wheel.

And then... shouldn't you be able to accomplish the same thing with any known 90º angle? Like the corner of your fuel can?