Finding Lost Body Clips

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Penguin Fart Racing

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Since I am an expert at crashing my RPV UGVS. I was always loosing body clips. After struggling with a clumsy metal detector, I started using BRIGHT ORANGE #95 PARACORD attached to my body clips ( PIX ). I still crash and have the clips pop off, they are easier to find. Have also started using a double layer of adhesive aluminum duct tape inside around body mount holes to lessen the clips from punching through bodies. Last, because of inertia in a crash, a film of LIQUID ELECTRICAL TAPE on the battery cavity floor lessens battery movement when I slam into something unmoveable .
 

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tntpoof

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I really don't worry about body clips there are a few ways to try and keep a body clip but Have found you just buy a bag off 100 50 10 whatever. ad put a piece of tape under radio on on base with a couple extra clips or they make a rubber retainer that pushes into hole in body that's attached to clips.
DuBro Body Klip Retainers w/Body Clips (Black) [DUB2245] - AMain Hobbies
Amazon.com: Traxxas 1834 Body Clips, Set of 12 : Toys & Games
seen guys take a magnet retrieval tools like a parts pick up tool(telescoping magnet head) to a guy use a nail pu tools .
 

The_RC_Dude

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Since I am an expert at crashing my RPV UGVS. I was always loosing body clips. After struggling with a clumsy metal detector, I started using BRIGHT ORANGE #95 PARACORD attached to my body clips ( PIX ). I still crash and have the clips pop off, they are easier to find. Have also started using a double layer of adhesive aluminum duct tape inside around body mount holes to lessen the clips from punching through bodies. Last, because of inertia in a crash, a film of LIQUID ELECTRICAL TAPE on the battery cavity floor lessens battery movement when I slam into something unmoveable .
I may have 2 solutions for you, if you stick with body clips, make a little tether from folded over duct tape (sticky side on sticky side, then trim it till it's ~2 inches long, and ~4mm wide, then loop one end through the "eye" of the body clip, tape the short end of the tether around long end of the the long end), or use zip ties. I used to use the former method on my buggy, I now use hook-and-loop (aka Velcro, more on that later).

Here's a video that demonstrates the "zip tie" approach.
And here are a few of pictures of my tape method, and the hook-and-loop.

I now use hook-and-loop on buggy, (Velcro is a brand that makes hook-and-loop, like how Kleenex is a brand that makes tissues) hook-and-loop on the "nerf" rails/side chassis guards, and on the inside of the body (where the body contacts the chassis side guards). I did that mostly because I was tired of fumbling around with body clips (with cold fingers, like here in wintertime) while trying to get the battery/ESC wires in position. Velcro improves that, it does take a few more seconds to take the body off, and do reinforce your body shell (with Gorilla tape like me, or dry wall tape and shoo-goo, while you're at it, do the whole body, it'll make the whole body MUCH stronger and last much longer) at least along the bottom side edge, and repeated pulling will stress and crack the body shell there eventually, just be careful pulling on the velcro, don't go yanking on it like a gorilla!

Using any of the 3 above methods will eliminate your problem of losing body clips, no more metal detector, no more bent-double searching on the ground for tiny pieces of metal!

You can also make little pull tabs/cords, although the first two methods will help with pulling out the body clips. The most popular methods for pull cords are (in no order) paracord (what you've done), zip ties (or like this), duct tape, or actual little rubber or plastic body clip pull tabs (these have Arrma tabs and a tether). Also found this thing on Amazon.

And lastly, reinforcing you body shell, including the body holes, is a great idea, I'm currently working on taping my new SG 1601 body shell (1/16 scale monster truck)!
 
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Since I am an expert at crashing my RPV UGVS. I was always loosing body clips. After struggling with a clumsy metal detector, I started using BRIGHT ORANGE #95 PARACORD attached to my body clips ( PIX ). I still crash and have the clips pop off, they are easier to find. Have also started using a double layer of adhesive aluminum duct tape inside around body mount holes to lessen the clips from punching through bodies. Last, because of inertia in a crash, a film of LIQUID ELECTRICAL TAPE on the battery cavity floor lessens battery movement when I slam into something unmoveable .
What kits that? Just use velcro/ hook-n-loop. Never need a clip again. Or traxxas has clip retainers.. or just do it as you have it with the cord. But drill or ream a little hole next to body mount.. pull the cord threw tie a not put some tape over that tie other end to clip.. and there you have it your own clip retainer.. those are a pain in the as*
 

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What kits that? Just use velcro/ hook-n-loop. Never need a clip again. Or traxxas has clip retainers.. or just do it as you have it with the cord. But drill or ream a little hole next to body mount.. pull the cord threw tie a not put some tape over that tie other end to clip.. and there you have it your own clip retainer.. those are a pain in the as*
Yep, I recently switched to velcro on my buggy, on my new 1/16 scale MT I can't do that (the body shell sits a bit too high, not enough contact area with the chassis side guards, though the body posts can go down a few holes, may try that), so I'm making my own body clip tethers (like what I had on my buggy previously).
 

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Yep, I recently switched to velcro on my buggy, on my new 1/16 scale MT I can't do that (the body shell sits a bit too high, not enough contact area with the chassis side guards, though the body posts can go down a few holes, may try that), so I'm making my own body clip tethers (like what I had on my buggy previously).
You can also make body screw nuts.. need some m3 all thread rod and some 3mm nuts. Cut off the top of body post drill out post and screw down the rod. Them just need a nut and washer for the body stop and washer nut on top..
 

The_RC_Dude

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You can also make body screw nuts.. need some m3 all thread rod and some 3mm nuts. Cut off the top of body post drill out post and screw down the rod. Them just need a nut and washer for the body stop and washer nut on top..
I have seen that approach before, but I'm not a fan of that, as I've never had a body or body clip come off while driving, so I don't need extra security, and nuts would be a real hassle to deal with everyday, I'd have to break out a nut driver (or just use my fingers if they're thumb screws/nuts). For bigger scale heavy bashers, I can see why you might look at that option, but for my uses on my smaller RCs (144001 buggy is 1/14 scale, SG 1601 MT is 1/16 scale) it'd be complete overkill. Your body would like, never come off when bashing though (lol), unless your body shell holes rip/crack, or your nuts come loose!
 

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I have seen that approach before, but I'm not a fan of that, as I've never had a body or body clip come off while driving, so I don't need extra security, and nuts would be a real hassle to deal with everyday, I'd have to break out a nut driver (or just use my fingers if they're thumb screws/nuts). For bigger scale heavy bashers, I can see why you might look at that option, but for my uses on my smaller RCs (144001 buggy is 1/14 scale, SG 1601 MT is 1/16 scale) it'd be complete overkill. Your body would like, never come off when bashing though (lol), unless your body shell holes rip/crack, or your nuts come loose!
A nut driver WHAT he'll no it's a finger nut. My buddy runs them on his Kra8s I'm trying to find them in blue for my Tmaxx's and black for the blackfoot
The clip retainer is not just for driven. Bashers use them all them time. You said you loose clips was just given you some suggestions.. and you can get the finger nut to scale
 

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