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I love it when this build gets updated. It's just so dang rad! Hoping for some street running video soon!
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Cool fix on the plug wires. Wonder why they didn't make those pins on the distributor cap more like the real thing, so you could just use a spring clamp on them, just like 1:1 plug wires, with a groove in them to lock hold the wire clamp on.This weekend I had a lot of free time, and it got spent on this car. First thing I did was head out and get some proper fuel!
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I love the smell of that stuff
Saturday, I took the car out and decided to drive it around an empty parking lot. Engine fired up, and I started tweaking the needles. After a bit, I got it running well, and started trying to just lightly drive it around. Man, it did not get far at all! Just giving it the slightest amount of throttle and the car was wildly spinning out. No doubt far too light in the rear and nose heavy. This is definitely a combo of things, but I clearly need to replace the axle housing with the heavier titanium one (on order). I also note that the front servo was jerking around a lot whenever I gave it decent throttle. This was likely due to 1) It being a cruddy 10 dollar servo, as my throttle servo was fine and 2) Loose wiring on the distributor/plugs causing noise. Minor stuff though. I was incredibly impressed with the raw power the engine has. My biggest question was how fast would this thing be, and I think my answer is that it's going to be very, very fast.
My next issue was when I got home, cleaning the car up, was just a hassle. The open headers inside the thing just get fuel and crud everywhere on the rear section of the chassis. It was high time to put my exhaust on! So I got to doing that...
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Nothing fancy, just some gently bent copper tubing with a hanger. Heat shrink tubing to insulate the chassis and body. Didn't really lose any of the awesome open header sound either. Reminds me a lot of the exhaust I had on my 71 Camaro in my punk street racing days
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I do like when a plan works out.
So now it was Sunday, and I was mostly interested in tuning the engine and figuring out why the servo might be acting whacky. I had the car in my driveway and on the street, just goofing around. Man, the way this thing sounds, it simply just roars like a real car. Even just lightly tooling around, the thing just sounds scary as hell. I fiddled around with carb settings had it purring nicely for a bit, then not, then purring. Thing just seemed all over the place. One thing, my ignition battery (9v rechargeable) was low, so I have two, and swapped it, and the car was happy again. I also noticed that the plug wire caps on the distributer, a few of them anyway, kept getting loose. I honestly hate the design. Look below, and tell me how is anything supposed to stay connected? Why in the word do they not have some kind of either threaded end, or snap end?
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My wife said put clamps on the boots. Maybe not a bad idea, but there's no room to do it. I decided to try something, which was take an m2 nut, and bore out the hole some to make a contact that would tightly fit on the posts and solder it to the wires.
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Then I shoved the nut up into the boot, and put it on the cap. Seems to fit really snug. Hoping this will work. For the plug ends, my buddy came up with an idea that was great, which was to take a section of the spring from the glow plug wire from a Traxxas car and see if it would snap over the spark plug ends, and sure enough, it's the perfect size. The wire just slips in (tightly) into the end of the spring section. Haven't done it yet because so far, I think that plug boots are staying quite snug on the plugs.
I also alleviated any fuel flow concerns. I was not seeing any air in the line when revving, and so I'm not going to bother with the pump. I did test to see if it worked, and it did build slight pressure in the tank. It's something I can worry about later under much harder acceleration tests.
I had planned on taking some video. My phone was set up, but I hit the wrong button, and did not check until I put everything away. I'll get some very soon though.
With the car on the jacks, I noticed the oil was getting funky after all that running over the weekend. Drained it, and inspected it.
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Looks like a good mix of brass from the crank bearings/connecting rods, and carbon steel from the rings. I think that is to be expected as the engine breaks in, but no doubt it's a good idea to change the oil after each use. The engine still feels pretty tight when turning by hand, so it's got a ways to go yet before break-in is done.
The other problems I had was the throttle linkage binding slightly, and the carb needles. I think I'm getting closer on those, but it's hard to tell when you keep dropping cylinders due to loose wires. I also need to properly set the timing. I could do it by ear, but I'll see about getting a timing gun. The last thing is coolant spillage out of the overflow tank. Not much I can really do about that one, other than not put too much in the system. However, too low, and the system draws air, and tends to run too hot and blow steam out the little hole in the tank. I think I'm going to put a fitting in the hole and run a line somewhere less obnoxious that getting all over the front of the engine.
Cool fix on the plug wires. Wonder why they didn't make those pins on the distributor cap more like the real thing, so you could just use a spring clamp on them, just like 1:1 plug wires, with a groove in them to lock hold the wire clamp on.
If your fix fails, I guess you'll just have to 3d print your own cap, and insert your own, properly machined contacts in it
Actually, it wouldn't be terribly difficult to make a better one.
Another idea would be to remove about 1/8" of the plastic around each pin, grind a groove in each one, and make a spring clamp to snap onto the pins. Just a thought, if your wires don't stay on.
Another idea, replace those pins in the cap with little M2 screws or something. That is, if you could get the current pins out of that cap cleanly.
3d print a replacement cap. That's not terribly difficult to model up.I love the idea of replacing the pins with screws. Love it. If I knew that I could get a replacement cap in a reasonable time, I'd do it right now That said, I might order a spare and give that a go.
For now, I tested the fix, and the thing seemed to run smoother for sure. Nothing shook loose, but I think ultimately screw down terminals are the final boss
That is awesome! Have you seen @Tunedfrog's wooden masterpieces?This thread is making me want to finish building my wooden RC rat rod with my V8View attachment 209742
That is awesome! Have you seen @Tunedfrog's wooden masterpieces?
WALL•E !!!!This thread is making me want to finish building my wooden RC rat rod with my V8View attachment 209742
Thanks, I haven't heen his masterpieces yetThat is awesome! Have you seen @Tunedfrog's wooden masterpieces?
You're the 5th person to said thatWALL•E !!!!
He posted some of them here. These are all made from popsicle sticks.Thanks, I haven't heen his masterpieces yet
Wow, that's awesomeHe posted some of them here. These are all made from popsicle sticks.
Here is some of my popsicle stick builds.
Most important tip of all, be careful sanding the wood, it's hard to replace mistakes.
The Semi tractor on the left won $500 worth of Ryobi tools in a contest.
RC build of the year award right there.Got the axle, and new 12v ignition battery added (note - it's worth mentioning that Cison offers an alternator that can power the ignition once started, so that could be something to try out at some point). Ran the car, and wow, what a difference the 12v and new plug wire combo made! So much smoother.
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The empty space now by the receiver is where my Racebox micro will be going
I also designed new upper wheelie bar links to be spring loaded and adjustable, pretty much identical to the real deal 1:1 cars.
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With all of that, I did have a 50 degree day Sunday to test. Sadly, the wire clip on the starter broke, and I couldn't find any small enough at the local HW store, so I had to wait until yesterday for some from Amazon to arrive. Testing and vids will have to wait...
I did get one last set "beauty" pics of the finished car with the window rivets, and exhaust system in place.
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