Fail safe won't work

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CaputoNL001

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I just bought a losi 8ight, purchased a dynamite failsafe unit with it. I followed the Instructions but when I turn off the transmitter it does not return to the brake position. Anyone have any insight on what is wrong?

I bought the RTR, so it has the stock spektrum electronics RX and servos
 
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I just bought a losi 8ight, purchased a dynamite failsafe unit with it. I followed the Instructions but when I turn off the transmitter it does not return to the brake position. Anyone have any insight on what is wrong?

I bought the RTR, so it has the stock spektrum electronics RX and servos

A fail safe is fine ,But all you need is the 2 cent spring on the carb.!

 
A fail safe is fine ,But all you need is the 2 cent spring on the carb.!

But with that being said, the spring is a great idea. However the only thing the spring will do is close the throttle. If the car was at full throttle it's gonna take a while for it to coast to a stop. What I like about the failsafe is if I can get it working correctly it will apply the brakes
 
On a nitro rig, I'd run both to be honest. I would never run another rig without an electronic failsafe personally. It's cheap insurance vs. the cost of the repair bill. Not to mention the safety aspect of it.
 
On a nitro rig, I'd run both to be honest. I would never run another rig without an electronic failsafe personally. It's cheap insurance vs. the cost of the repair bill. Not to mention the safety aspect of it.
Agreed

Any Thoughts on why cannot get the failsafe to work?
 
But with that being said, the spring is a great idea. However the only thing the spring will do is close the throttle. If the car was at full throttle it's gonna take a while for it to coast to a stop. What I like about the failsafe is if I can get it working correctly it will apply the brakes

A DEAD BATTRY ,IS A DEAD BATTRY ,IT IS WHAT IT IS ,A DEAD BATTRY!

It will not brake because it is a DEAD BATTRY!

A spring forces the throttle back down to idle automaticly ,an is bullet proof!....
 
A DEAD BATTRY ,IS A DEAD BATTRY ,IT IS WHAT IT IS ,A DEAD BATTRY!

It will not brake because it is a DEAD BATTRY!

A spring forces the throttle back down to idle automaticly ,an is bullet proof!....
That makes absolutely no sense. First of all I'm trying to set it when the battery is fully charged. Second of all the failsafe is designed to operate A) when signal is lost B) when battery reaches less than 4V

A 6V battery at 4V is not a dead battery. That is the entire point of a piggy back fail safe is to apply brakes BEFORE the battery is DEAD Completely.


And your spring logic is EXTREMELY flawed...your car is at full throttle, your spring "fail safe" slams the throttle shut. Ok, you still have a car with NO brakes applied that was just going full speed. It at that point needs I'd guess at least 150' to slow down and stop on its own or it's gonna hit something.

The whole point to the external fail safe is to apply brakes to stop the car from hitting something, not just close the throttle down. Yes or no?

BTW, I understand how springs work, no need to explain to me it slams the slide close ?
 
That makes absolutely no sense. First of all I'm trying to set it when the battery is fully charged. Second of all the failsafe is designed to operate A) when signal is lost B) when battery reaches less than 4V

A 6V battery at 4V is not a dead battery. That is the entire point of a piggy back fail safe is to apply brakes BEFORE the battery is DEAD Completely.


And your spring logic is EXTREMELY flawed...your car is at full throttle, your spring "fail safe" slams the throttle shut. Ok, you still have a car with NO brakes applied that was just going full speed. It at that point needs is guess at least 150' to slow down and stop on its own or it's gonna hit something.

Ok ,I get that!
But the fail safe ,I am not sure that it works to were it will make the servo go into a brake mode at a lost of signal ,
an if the battery goes completely dead or switch goes bad ,It is not going to work at all ,an MOST CERTAINLY is
not going to work at all with NO juice!

So ,with that said ,a fail safe is only good with lost signal ,in which a lost signal accurs if your RC gets too far out of range or
if the transmitter & or rec. batts. go dead!

I never run my RC's too far away to were you can't see it .an most people do run RC's in a designated area!
 
Ok ,I get that!
But the fail safe ,I am not sure that it works to were it will make the servo go into a brake mode at a lost of signal ,
an if the battery goes completely dead or switch goes bad ,It is not going to work at all ,an MOST CERTAINLY is
not going to work at all with NO juice!

So ,with that said ,a fail safe is only good with lost signal ,in which a lost signal accurs if your RC gets too far out of range or
if the transmitter & or rec. batts. go dead!

I never run my RC's too far away to were you can't see it .an most people do run RC's in a designated area!
Please, I need help getting it to work and no offense but you clearly don't know enough about piggy back fail safe units.

The fail safe instructions are below, please read them because everything you just said is wrong. It clearly says in black and white it works on low voltage and explains how to set a specific brake point. Unfortunately for me however the simple instructions can't get it to work.

Now What I am wondering is if this piece of electronic does not work with certain service, or if I cannot get it far enough away from the receiver antenna to work, but I'm obviously limited by the 2 inch freaking cable on it.

B598A644-9B9F-453D-87EC-62FD9BB5AFFC.jpeg
31F78D7A-FFAA-4954-8DB0-38B40CE01105.jpeg
 
Please, I need help getting it to work and no offense but you clearly don't know enough about piggy back fail safe units.

The fail safe instructions are below, please read them because everything you just said is wrong. It clearly says in black and white it works on low voltage and explains how to set a specific brake point. Unfortunately for me however the simple instructions can't get it to work.

Now What I am wondering is if this piece of electronic does not work with certain service, or if I cannot get it far enough away from the receiver antenna to work, but I'm obviously limited by the 2 inch freaking cable on it.

View attachment 94852View attachment 94853

I am sorry Bro ,I don't use them! ,I am just recommending a spring as well!

Someone else may have your answer ,just hang in there Bud an have some patience!...:cool:
 
If your stock Spektrum receiver is already set at failsafe the Dynamite should be set when the receiver loses signal. Set the Dynamite up after the failsafe for the receiver kicks in as the Dynamite will only see the signal from the receiver as what position the brake should be at no longer having any input from the transmitter.

Does it work as a stand alone without the receiver failsafe on? or not even then?
 
If your stock Spektrum receiver is already set at failsafe the Dynamite should be set when the receiver loses signal. Set the Dynamite up after the failsafe for the receiver kicks in as the Dynamite will only see the signal from the receiver as what position the brake should be at no longer having any input from the transmitter.

Does it work as a stand alone without the receiver failsafe on? or not even then?
I don't think I quite understand your advice.

But let me try to give you some information see if it answers your question enough.

So I have 3 cars, one redcat racing buggy, one redcat racing MT, and the Losi 8ight RTR buggy.

Both my redcat racing vehicles if I turn off my transmitter before the RX the throttle servo goes full brake. No external failsafe just the servo failsafe.

Now my losi if I turn off transmitter first throttle servo stays at neutral without the dynamite external fail safe installed. When I try to install and setup the dynamite external fail safe I hold the brake one the transmitter and set the failsafe as the instructions say, turn off the transmitter and the servo stays at neutral. If I am full throttle without the external failsafe installed and turn off the transmitter the servo will go to neutral.

Do I need to bind the RX with the brake applied, then try to set the external failsafe?
 
Redcat are rebranded Flysky they have fail safes built into the receiver. In this video you can see how to set it up if it.s not already setup
no external failsafe needed it's in the receiver.

Since your Losi returns to neutral I am not sure it may or not have a built in failsafe in the receiver. The Redcat with the built in failsafe in the receiver set's the failsafe for you (when programmed) to full brake that's the signal from the receiver applying full brake with loss of signal.
 
I'm 99% sure that the spektrum has a signal loss fail safe, so you may be seeing the result of that and it's conflicting with the external FS. With spektrum, the position of the servos when you bind the receiver to the transmitter is the "fail safe" position on signal loss.

I quit using external fail safes when I started running spektrum. I just run a spring (as discussed above) for when the receiver pack goes dead, it closes the carb the best it can.

Personally, I don't set a fail safe to apply brakes. If your mid jump and lose signal, it's going to lock the tires and likely land very badly. I always set mine to just idle position. Then again, I rarely ran on the street, only in grass, so if I ran out of range, even at WOT, the rolling resistance of grass would slow it down pretty quick. Also, I used to have severe range issues with spektrum and would lose signal all the time. It seemed to happen a lot when in flight, which ended me up with a lot of bad crashes due to it applying brakes, which is why I started setting it at idle position instead when binding.

Way back in the day, before I ran spektrum (I ran JR FM and traxxas AM), I ran the external OFNA micro fail safe. It did what your suggesting on low voltage, I think, but really, the most frequent issue was loss of signal. Low voltage is something you can see as the servos start slowing down, it's not instant. And, if your switch dies or your battery wire disconnects, the fail safe didn't have power to send the servo home anyway.
 
I'm 99% sure that the spektrum has a signal loss fail safe, so you may be seeing the result of that and it's conflicting with the external FS. With spektrum, the position of the servos when you bind the receiver to the transmitter is the "fail safe" position on signal loss.

I quit using external fail safes when I started running spektrum. I just run a spring (as discussed above) for when the receiver pack goes dead, it closes the carb the best it can.

Personally, I don't set a fail safe to apply brakes. If your mid jump and lose signal, it's going to lock the tires and likely land very badly. I always set mine to just idle position. Then again, I rarely ran on the street, only in grass, so if I ran out of range, even at WOT, the rolling resistance of grass would slow it down pretty quick. Also, I used to have severe range issues with spektrum and would lose signal all the time. It seemed to happen a lot when in flight, which ended me up with a lot of bad crashes due to it applying brakes, which is why I started setting it at idle position instead when binding.

Way back in the day, before I ran spektrum (I ran JR FM and traxxas AM), I ran the external OFNA micro fail safe. It did what your suggesting on low voltage, I think, but really, the most frequent issue was loss of signal. Low voltage is something you can see as the servos start slowing down, it's not instant. And, if your switch dies or your battery wire disconnects, the fail safe didn't have power to send the servo home anyway.

So this all has me curious about one thing, a spring that has enough resistance to pull the servo back to neutral, does that reduce the servo life with the added resistance from the spring as it opens the slide? But I guess a servo is still cheaper than crashed car huh?
 
So this all has me curious about one thing, a spring that has enough resistance to pull the servo back to neutral, does that reduce the servo life with the added resistance from the spring as it opens the slide? But I guess a servo is still cheaper than crashed car huh?

It does work the servo more. I run a servo that has 150oz or more and they last many years. I use a hitec 985MG on all three of my nitro trucks for throttle/brake.
 
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