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EREVO...factory made

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Thanks guys... I am still a bit confused as to what this will all do for your setup. I am still searching for the idiots guide to tuning your ERevo! LOL
 
Hey Robmob...

What size Tubes did you end up using? I got the 102mm and they are a bit shorter than the stock ones. Did I get the wrong ones? Thanks

Tom
 
I believe the part number was 5338R and they are for the rear toe links or for front steering.
 
robmob said:
I believe the part number was 5338R and they are for the rear toe links or for front steering.
Click to expand...

Hey Rob... I am sorry for the typo... I have the right tubes... (Thankfully!) LOL it is the pushrods that I meant to ask about. Sorry about that.

Tom
 
I was thinking that was the case since I could not find any other tubes other than the ones I had.

The pushrods come in varying lengths depending on what rockers are installed.

Here is a list of them from the Traxxas site:

Push Rods
Revo’s linkage based suspension requires different push rod assemblies depending upon which rockers are used. Strong, 7075-T6 aluminum versions of each are available to decrease the total weight of the truck by 31 grams. Rod ends are already installed making it simple to just bolt them on the truck. When using progressive-2 rockers, spacers (part # 5133) are required for use with the 5318 or 5318X push rods. These spacers are included with the progressive-2 rockers.

Part #5318 Push Rod (steel) (2) (chrome) (use with long travel or #5357 progressive-1 rockers)
Suggested retail price $7.00

Part #5318X Push Rod (aluminum) (red) (2) (use with long travel or #5357 progressive-1 rockers)
Suggested retail price $12.50

Part #5319 Push Rod (steel) (2) (black) (use with #5359 progressive-3 rockers)
Suggested retail price $7.00

Part #5319X Push Rod (aluminum) (red) (2) (use with #5359 progressive-3 rockers)
Suggested retail price $12.50
 
Hey Robmob... thanks for the info my friend. I found that I have the right pushrods.... I just don't have the spacers which have just been ordered. Did you replace your pushrods? Also are you using the stock rockers?





Thanks again my friend.

Tom
 
I did replace the rods with the red ones.

I am getting ready to swap the Traxxas CVD drive shafts from the diffs to the axle carriers, the RPM arms/carriers and the Ti hinge pins from what's left of my nitro Revo as well. I have them, so I might as well use them.
 
Sounds like alot of fun to me! LOL Your E Revo is going to be stout.

I am also having problems with getting my packs to work correctly... the problem is not the length of the pack, but the way the wires are soldered on. I am running a 7 Cell side by side pack. The wires do not make it to the stock slot for the wires to run out of the pack. and the wire leads are so short off the speedo that the right side packs wires won't reach. Did you have any issues with this? I am guessing I am going to have to dremel a few slots in the battery box doors so that the doors can close around the wires? Thanks man.

Tom
 
godale03 said:
Sounds like alot of fun to me! LOL Your E Revo is going to be stout.

I am also having problems with getting my packs to work correctly... the problem is not the length of the pack, but the way the wires are soldered on. I am running a 7 Cell side by side pack. The wires do not make it to the stock slot for the wires to run out of the pack. and the wire leads are so short off the speedo that the right side packs wires won't reach. Did you have any issues with this? I am guessing I am going to have to dremel a few slots in the battery box doors so that the doors can close around the wires? Thanks man.

Tom
Click to expand...

You can always make an extension to lengthen the wires coming out of the speedo.

I would just remove the wires from your packs and solder on some longer ones to suit so you don't have to hack the battery doors.

Do you have a pic of how your wires are soldered on your packs?
 
robmob said:
You can always make an extension to lengthen the wires coming out of the speedo.

I would just remove the wires from your packs and solder on some longer ones to suit so you don't have to hack the battery doors.

Do you have a pic of how your wires are soldered on your packs?
Click to expand...

I don't currently but I can get one if you need it. Just to give you an idea though... the positive and negative wires solder on to oposite ends of the pack, and the deans connector lines up in the middle of the pack forming a "Y" shape.

I am guessing you mean make an extension using a male and female deans connector... basically inline between the speedo and batteries?

Thanks

Tom
 
That is exactly what I mean regarding the extension. You may be able to fashion one that enables you to snake it down into the battery bays and connect it to the batts inside. There should be enough room above the batts for the wires and connector. If not, there may be enough room where the battery doors bulge outward.

My 7 cell packs are wired the same way. I will see if what I am talking about will work when I get home this evening.
 
robmob said:
That is exactly what I mean regarding the extension. You may be able to fashion one that enables you to snake it down into the battery bays and connect it to the batts inside. There should be enough room above the batts for the wires and connector. If not, there may be enough room where the battery doors bulge outward.

My 7 cell packs are wired the same way. I will see if what I am talking about will work when I get home this evening.
Click to expand...

That would be great!! Thanks for the help my friend!

Tom
 
If your pack is wired like mine, you can remove the battery retainer from the top of the battery box and snake the wires above the pack as pictured.

DSC00623_2.webp
 
Thanks my friend. Then I would just have to make the extension that we talked about yesterday. Sweet!

Tom
 
In the pic, you can just see a hole I made in the battery box rear vent with a Dremel. It is large enough to easily poke a deans connector through.

You could snake the connector through and then push the battery inside as shown. I should have done it and posted the pic. If I remember, I will do it tonight. Your battery wires would need to be long enough though.
 
That is what I am afraid of... my wires still being to short. I think at this point the extensions would be my best bet, although I am worried about current loss. Although they wouldn't have to be that long. I guess we will just have to give it a try.
 
Why not just solder new longer wires onto your packs?
 
robmob said:
Why not just solder new longer wires onto your packs?
Click to expand...

Well these are packs that I bought from Promatch, and they arrived built. I have never soldered a bettery pack before and am a little nervous about ruining the pack. I am a bit emabarassed to admit it, but that is one area of RC I have purposely avoided. Batteries are still very expensive and if you are not careful you can fry a pack quickly. The other issue is that there is nobody here locally that is able to "Teach me to fish" so to speak. Usually after I have been shown how to do something I am ok.

Tom
 
If you have a decent soldering iron with a wide tip, it is a piece of cake.

Practice on some cheap Alkalines until you feel comfortable with doing it.

My procedure:
Clean the ends of the battery with a scotch brite pad or steel wool then wipe it with DA.
Be sure not to touch the ends after cleaning.
Tin the end of the wire and then flatten with some plyers.
Tin the end of the batt.
Put the end of the wire on the tinned end of the batt and press down with the soldering tip.
When you see the solder melt, remove the soldering tip and hold the wire in place until it sets.
That's it.

I use Deans solder so I don't need to use flux. You may need to depending on what you are using.
 
robmob said:
If you have a decent soldering iron with a wide tip, it is a piece of cake.

Practice on some cheap Alkalines until you feel comfortable with doing it.

My procedure:
Clean the ends of the battery with a scotch brite pad or steel wool then wipe it with DA.
Be sure not to touch the ends after cleaning.
Tin the end of the wire and then flatten with some plyers.
Tin the end of the batt.
Put the end of the wire on the tinned end of the batt and press down with the soldering tip.
When you see the solder melt, remove the soldering tip and hold the wire in place until it sets.
That's it.

I use Deans solder so I don't need to use flux. You may need to depending on what you are using.
Click to expand...

Well, that doesn't seem to bad. I know I have Dean's solder, and I have no problem soldering Deans connectors on, so I should be ok. I will call my LHS to see if they have any wet noodle and two packs of deans connectors. Thanks man.

Tom
 

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