Engine problems?!

[o0prodigy0o]

I have a LST1 and just got done doing the LST2 Conversion Kit running the stock LST1 .26 motor. I finished her off last night and figured Id do my test run this morning. I got everything ready to go and I can't get the spin started to engage the motor only at the end of a spin cycle does compression happen. I've had this problem before w this truck but it solved itself easily by just moving the starting stick around until you could hear the compression of the motor. I tore down the spin starter side of the motor and noticed alil wear and tear on the starting pin but other than that everything else seemed ok. I have about 3 1/2- 4 gal through this motor and she hovers in the 210-220 degree range so shes alil rich. Any ideas?

 

[Racer 1966]

I tore down the spin starter side of the motor and noticed alil wear and tear on the starting pin

Are you talking about the shaft on the engine that the one way bearing is on? If it has noticeable wear then that will make the owb slip. Otherwise, sounds like you may just need to clean or replace the owb.

 

[o0prodigy0o]

The starter shaft http://www.horizonhobby.com/Products/Default.aspx?ProdID=LOSR1042 has some wear on it.
The one way bearing although mine does not look like this one http://www.horizonhobby.com/Products/Default.aspx?ProdID=LOSR1043 mine only has only two slits. Has some wear from the rotation of the connecting rod but I just reversed it to the clean side to see if I would make a difference on the startup which after full reassebly bumped the motor over like it should then I stopped and did it again netting the same results previous.

 

[olds97_lss]

You can try to shoot a quick shot of WD-40 down the carb throat, then tilt the engine/truck so that the starter housing is pointing down. This will allow the wd-40 to get to the OWB.

What are the temps where your at? How cold/warm is it outside? I've had that issue many times with engines that have a OWB on the inside of the engine when it's below 50F outside. Heating the engine up to 70-80F usually allows the OWB to work properly by loosening the oil/sludge holding the bearings.

If that doesn't work, then take it apart, soak the OWB in DA for 5-10 minutes, then blow it dry and put some light ARO or 3-in-1 oil on it, then put it back together and try again.

 

[o0prodigy0o]

Ill give the WD-40 a shot one more disassemble wont kill me but I'm about to go buy a new motor if this doesn't work. It was around 65-70 out when I was trying to get it started.

 

[olds97_lss]

It's worth a try. With internal OWB engines, if your not very religious about applying ARO after every run to the engine, the OWB's tend to get gummed up. At least mine do.

You can also back the glowplug off 1/4 turn to release some compression until you get it started. As soon as it starts, tighten it back down. This may help the OWB slip less enough to allow you to get it going.

 

[Racer 1966]

I know Olds knows what he's talking about, but if that shaft has noticeable wear I would replace it. They've given me fits on my small block engines until I put in a new one. I could only measure .001" of wear.

 

[olds97_lss]

Racer isn't wrong either.

If the shaft is worn, replace the bearing at the same time. Running a worn bearing on a new shaft will wear the shaft more quickly. Same goes for a OWB. If cleaning it doesn't help, then you replace only the OWB, the worn shaft will wear out the new bearing more quickly than it should.

Unfortunately, that is the nature of the pull/roto-start beasts.

However, proper cleaning, religious ARO after running and tearing the engine down and cleaning the OWB once every gallon or so will make them last a long time. I have 4+ gallons on my LRP28 and it still engages as it did when it was new.

 

[o0prodigy0o]

Thanks for all the help!!! Ill mess with it tomorrow and hopefully things work out!!!
Whats your guys take on that LRP .28 motor is it worth the $180 and if so what else do you recommend doing I read the +1 setup on gears? I am somewhat happy w the stock motor but wish it had alil more power and was thinking about the 427 but then read about the LRP. I'm not looking to race this truck other than when my buddy get his Savage XL just to see what both got.

 

[olds97_lss]

Whats your guys take on that LRP .28 motor is it worth the $180 and if so what else do you recommend doing I read the +1 setup on gears?

Awesome engine. Lots of power and pretty easy to tune and keep tuned. I run +3 with a trans gear flip mod (think that's similar to +1) with HPI teflon clutch shoes, stock spurs and t-maxx 2.5 tires/rims.

In stock form (tires/trans), I wouldn't see that engine having a problem at all pushing a +2 CB. With what I have, I still get wheelies if I have traction.

Unfortunately, to do more than +1, you have to buy a LST1 threaded bell and after market gears to go on it. I bought mine from www.rc-monster.com and they are really nice.

 

[o0prodigy0o]

What is the trans flip mod?

 

[olds97_lss]

The two forward gears in the trans get swapped. You have to dremel the trans case a bit, but it's a cheap way to add more speed to the LST* trans.

I put a photo of mine here:
https://www.rcnitrotalk.com/forum/showpost.php?p=624463&postcount=7

 

[syphon68]

I have it in an LST2 with stock tranny and difs and that thing screams, wheelies 1st and 2nd but very manageable. definately more power than the stock 427. btw $167 at losi parts warehouse....

 

[o0prodigy0o]

Cool cool appreciate all the info and help!
I think I'm gonna order the LRP motor and do a +2 bell setup and see how I like it. If I need more Ill do the forward only conversion and the gear flip mod since I just redid my trans to the new case and I have the old LST1 case to build.

 

[o0prodigy0o]

One other quick question. I ordered the LRP motor tonight. What fuel do you guys recommend. I was running blue thunder through my M26.

 

[olds97_lss]

Well, the manual suggests running at least 25% nitro and I've had great luck with that. I pretty much only run byrons now and really like it. I buy a gallon of 30 and gallon of 20, then mix them 50/50 (3rd empty jug comes in handy).

 

[o0prodigy0o]

Thanks again for the info! Got the truck up and running today w the stock motor and everything is good to go!!! The new motor and gears should be here tomorrow!!! Thanks also for the Losi Parts Warehouse info given this place has good shipping and the parts are ok this place is gonna rock. Such awesome prices!!!

 

[olds97_lss]

...do a +2 bell setup and see how I like it. If I need more Ill do the forward only conversion and the gear flip mod since I just redid my trans to the new case and I have the old LST1 case to build.

I didn't catch this earlier, but it looks like a good way to go.

Since I'm running standard MT tires/wheels (smaller/lighter=less rotational mass), it's hard for me to suggest what to do with gearing. All I know for sure is with my setup, just +1 with gear flip causes me to top out in a matter of 30 feet... if I don't flip on my lid. +3 with gear flip... it's just silly how much top speed it gave me. Really shows me what the LRP had to offer! I think if I ran +4 or more, it would labor a lot in the grass, which is where I bash mostly. It would also chew up clutch shoes more often due to the extra drag/taller gearing. What I have is almost too fast for me for skate park bashing, but it's a good match for the setup of the truck.

 

[o0prodigy0o]

Yeah this stuff is all easy swaps to switch gearing the more I looked into it. I bought myself some options as far as that goes. New motor and some more parts just made it in today so back to work I go. I'm a deck and two top plates away from not having anything original on my rig.
My Integy's just went up on eBay they were JUNK. Much happier w the LST2 shocks. I got it running w the stock motor thanks for all the help guys. Just wanted to check to see that my rear ends and trans were opperating normally after the redo. I'm in this thing for some bucks now so I'm just gonna finish it off w the carbon deck and top plates then she is done. I never realized how many parts Id end up replacing I'm gonna have enought to build another just gonna need hardware. Oh yeah and I got RPM arms for the build one also.
Olds 97 I saw a post of yours about the RPM arms bending or busting adjustment rods do you know what size they require from Lundsford? Also any recommendations for steering lickage upgrade? Since I'm getting the deck I might as well do that at the same time so I dont have to take it back down again.

 

[olds97_lss]

I'm running stock steering and have never had an issue. Well, stock except for the lunsford turnbuckles there as well. I run lunsford front and rear since I have an aftershock, it has turnbuckles on the rear as well to adjust toe. I went through stockers like water for some reason, never had an issue once I went lunsford. Too bad though... I now have 10-15 stockers as spares in my pit box!

These were what I bought for my RPM upper arms, lunsford 5mm x 40mm:
http://www.horizonhobby.com/Products/Default.aspx?ProdID=LNS1540

I think you could get away with 35mm as well... but I use 40mm.

Never had a problem since I got them. I tried the ones that came with RPM, busted them before I made it through a tank! Then I tried a set from OFNA and a set from HB (for 1/8 buggies), busted those just as easily.