E Revo differential questions

[Lightbender]

Hello, I’m new on here, first post. Anyway I have the older 1/10 e revo brushless. I’d like to know if upgrades such as the Hot Racing diff (hardened gears, aluminum carrier...) are worth my effort and money. I’m not running 6S now but will be in the near future. I’ve looked through the forum and really didn’t see any convincing info. Are there other brands or set ups that are favorable?
I appreciate your time,

 

[tntpoof]

I've had my Erevo for years(Kawasaki body 1) .never rans 6 cells stay to 4 cells... the stock diff gears are good as long as shimmed correctly..not sure on any after market ones.only upgrade I did was go from traxxas plugs to XT 90

 

[BobP]

Welcome to the site Lightbender. If you want to run 6s I would upgrade as you describe and be sure to shim the HR parts also. I also like the XT90 plug

 

[Lightbender]

I appreciate the replies. Believe I will start accumulating the parts. One of the first things I did was cut the Traxxas plugs off and I installed the amass 150’s. I saw a video on YouTube about rc plugs anyway they guy showed how you could eliminate the “Y” connection with these 150’s. The down side is you have to be darn careful, it’s possible to get the polarity crossed. Would not recommend it for any kiddos.

 

[olds97_lss]

The biggest issue with revo diffs are the input bearings are so small to handle the torque of 6S. On the traxxas forums, guys were using oillight bushings pressed into the stock bearing outer race. These seemed to hold up longer. Then properly shimming of the ring/pinion of course.

This day in age, if your looking to throw $200+ at a v1 revo to try to run 6S, your likely well served to find a 2.0 roller on ebay and swap over your v1 electronics.

Or stick with 4S and a soft punch setting.

Buying a 2.0 roller and swapping my stuff over has made me fall in love with my brushless revo again. I've since done even more to it and it just keeps asking for more abuse. Definitely worth the $240 I spent on the roller.

It did fine on 4S for 3 years though, as long as I wasn't too hard on the trigger. About once a year, I'd have to replace all the sliders, especially the rear ones, as they tended to egg out/break yokes over time.

 

[Lightbender]

The biggest issue with revo diffs are the input bearings are so small to handle the torque of 6S. On the traxxas forums, guys were using oillight bushings pressed into the stock bearing outer race. These seemed to hold up longer. Then properly shimming of the ring/pinion of course.

This day in age, if your looking to throw $200+ at a v1 revo to try to run 6S, your likely well served to find a 2.0 roller on ebay and swap over your v1 electronics.

Or stick with 4S and a soft punch setting.

Buying a 2.0 roller and swapping my stuff over has made me fall in love with my brushless revo again. I've since done even more to it and it just keeps asking for more abuse. Definitely worth the $240 I spent on the roller.

It did fine on 4S for 3 years though, as long as I wasn't too hard on the trigger. About once a year, I'd have to replace all the sliders, especially the rear ones, as they tended to egg out/break yokes over time.

I read your message earlier and it really sank in. I agree with you 100%. You certainly changed my point of view on this revo. Got me to thinking I could put the brushed motors and ESC back on then maybe sell it. From what I’ve gathered there’s not much that will transfer from the old one to the 2.0 right? I upgraded my dual brushed setup to a castle sidewinder 8th. How would that do on the 2.0?

So tell me more about what I’d need to get. A roller is....I’m guessing it’s just the chassis with suspension??
I also guessing a radio and receiver... any other details you can give me would be appreciated.

Thanks,
Brett

 

[olds97_lss]

I started with an ERBE version 1 (brushless revo version 1). I got what is called a "slider" off ebay for $235.

Came with everything except:
body
radio/receiver
servos
motor
esc

I moved over all the above from my v1 to the 2.0 chassis. Along with a few other parts, like my alloy rockers, Hard Anno'd TiNi shocks, rear limiting straps, alloy servo saver cross member. T-Bone skids took some work to move those over as the mounting holes differed.

Some things I couldn't transfer were the RPM arms/axle carriers on the front and true-track system on the rear. I have 2 nitro revos, so those will be spares on hand for those.

I didn't want to bother dropping another $60 on a 2.0 body that used the clips, so I transferred my body mounts so I could use a standard body with posts like I had.

This is my thread from when I first got the ERBEv1. I updated it at post 40 with what I did for the v2 change over:
https://www.rctalk.com/forum/thread...-couple-days-early.113621/page-2#post-1254122

Here's a slider that's new:
https://www.ebay.com/itm/TRAXXAS-E-...SIS-SLIDER-86086-4-NEW-BRUSHLESS/274323182499

Mine was used, so was $234 from that same seller.

After a few 6S runs with the MXL-6S/2200kv system, the esc died on me. Not sure why as it's supposedly a very robust rebrand of the cast MMv2. So I made a cap pack and put on an old HPI Blur F360C (MMv1) and ran it for a while, but it was sketchy. I ended up going with a hobbywing max6 and arrma 2050kv 4074 motor, which is where it's at now. I don't have a lot of wheel time with that system on it as it was late in the year last year, then snow and I didn't get out at all this winter.

I doubled down on the HW esc though and put the same motor/esc in my outcast 6S, so here's to hoping it's as good as it seemed to be. Power was nice and smooth in the ERBEv2. I liked being able to adjust it just by unplugging the fan, plugging in the box, adjusting, then going. Vs unplugging the castle esc from the receiver (which is a PITA on a revo).

 

[Lightbender]

I started with an ERBE version 1 (brushless revo version 1). I got what is called a "slider" off ebay for $235.

Came with everything except:
body
radio/receiver
servos
motor
esc

I moved over all the above from my v1 to the 2.0 chassis. Along with a few other parts, like my alloy rockers, Hard Anno'd TiNi shocks, rear limiting straps, alloy servo saver cross member. T-Bone skids took some work to move those over as the mounting holes differed.

Some things I couldn't transfer were the RPM arms/axle carriers on the front and true-track system on the rear. I have 2 nitro revos, so those will be spares on hand for those.

I didn't want to bother dropping another $60 on a 2.0 body that used the clips, so I transferred my body mounts so I could use a standard body with posts like I had.

This is my thread from when I first got the ERBEv1. I updated it at post 40 with what I did for the v2 change over:
https://www.rctalk.com/forum/thread...-couple-days-early.113621/page-2#post-1254122

Here's a slider that's new:
https://www.ebay.com/itm/TRAXXAS-E-...SIS-SLIDER-86086-4-NEW-BRUSHLESS/274323182499

Mine was used, so was $234 from that same seller.

After a few 6S runs with the MXL-6S/2200kv system, the esc died on me. Not sure why as it's supposedly a very robust rebrand of the cast MMv2. So I made a cap pack and put on an old HPI Blur F360C (MMv1) and ran it for a while, but it was sketchy. I ended up going with a hobbywing max6 and arrma 2050kv 4074 motor, which is where it's at now. I don't have a lot of wheel time with that system on it as it was late in the year last year, then snow and I didn't get out at all this winter.

I doubled down on the HW esc though and put the same motor/esc in my outcast 6S, so here's to hoping it's as good as it seemed to be. Power was nice and smooth in the ERBEv2. I liked being able to adjust it just by unplugging the fan, plugging in the box, adjusting, then going. Vs unplugging the castle esc from the receiver (which is a PITA on a revo).

Looks like you have a perfect place to run, all those hills seem like a great place for any degree of jumps.

I got one of the castle B-link set ups and love it. Super easy to save several (10) set ups. I have one setting for my nephew, runs at about 40%, the breaks are on so it doesn’t get away from him. I don’t even have to be right there while he runs it. When I want it back to run wide open it only takes about a minute to change over. I also got one of the CC 2.0 bec’s that’s programmable too. I wanted to run an extra fan and lights and it seemed the best way to go. I have it set up running both fans and a few extra lights. The summer heat here in east Texas isn’t kind to electronics.

I haven’t seen any other rollers on eBay are there other sites that have them? I also wonder if Traxxas ever decided to sell rollers, saw some post on the Traxxas forum saying there was a possibility they would.

I’m going to keep an eye out for a 2.0 I hope I find one before the urge to buy a new one overtakes me.
What would a fully running brushed e-revo with a few extras go for? I’d almost be will to sell the whole shooting match in order to justify buying a 2.0.

 

[olds97_lss]

I had thought about getting the b-link thing, at the time I had 3 trucks with castle esc's in them, so would have been nearly $150 to get 3 of them... just would have been better if they figured out how to use the fan port like HW does.

 

[Lightbender]

I had thought about getting the b-link thing, at the time I had 3 trucks with castle esc's in them, so would have been nearly $150 to get 3 of them... just would have been better if they figured out how to use the fan port like HW does.

You could actually get by with just 1 of the B-links. Once you set your esc it keeps that setting. I have to rearrange the plugs when I want to change the voltage output on my Castle 2.0 bec which probably won’t be often. In my opinion castle could have done more to show the versatility of their B-link. I’m not really using mine to power the receiver, just running a few led lights and 2 fans. I could probably run about 3 times as
much as I have now.

I missed a sell on Craigslist for a revo vxl. The guy wanted 225 for it. Was the car with all the electronics, motor... it just had some kind of issues with the rear diff. Which isn’t that big of a deal. I just didn’t react fast enough when his ad was posted.

I found a thread on the Traxxas forum talking about what it takes to turn a version 1 revo into a 2.0. I saw a parts list, just got to wondering if it’s worth the money and time. Any thoughts on that?

 

[olds97_lss]

Yeah, the issue was that I was trying to figure out proper gearing/punch/brake settings for all 3 at the same time, so having just one didn't help me much.

I ended up getting extended Y connectors so that the esc plugged in outside the receiver boxes. Not the greatest solution to a stupid problem, but made it easier to maintain just the same.

Besides, spending $45 on something that could be mitigated by using the always available fan port just rubbed me the wrong way.