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Bartek

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UK,London,Kingston-Surrey
RC Driving Style
  1. Bashing
Hi,
I'm thinking of getting one of these but not sure which one to get,they both use same ESC and motor and they are same scale and both are well build but which one would you buy?
which one is faster,more durable,funnier etc... which one be better for heavy bashing and nearly every day usage?
tell me what you think of both.

Traxxas E-Revo Brushless Edition

Equipped with Castle Creation's Mamba Monster Brushless System
Up to 25.2 Volts of Massive Brushless Power
Includes New Traxxas TQ 2.4GHz Radio System with 4-Channel Micro Receiver
State-of-the-Art Integrated Chassis Design
Heavy-Duty 17mm Splined Aluminum Hex Hubs and Wheel Nuts
Hard-Anodized Teflon®-Coated Aluminum Shocks
Top Speed: 65+mph All-Out, 50+mph Out of the Box!

power_system.jpg


Castle Creations Mamba Monster Brushless System
Built specifically to handle the rigors of large, power-hungry trucks, the Mamba Monster speed control is ready for 6S LiPo power with its massive 6.5mm gold-plated connectors, high-efficiency heatsink, integrated cooling fan and heavy-duty components. The speed control sends its power pulses to a Castle 2200Kv 75mm motor, designed specially for maximum performance and reliability with 6S LiPo power in torque-hungry applications. The aluminum motor can is machined to act as a massive heatsink, high-grade bearings deliver maximum efficiency, and high-strength Neodymium magnets give E-Revo brushless edition outrageous torque. To resist the twist, a beefy 5mm shaft transfers power to Brushless-Ready transmission.

Built For Brushless
We built the E-Revo for 6S brushless power right from the start. For other companies, brushless ready means just making some nominal provisions for battery and motor installation and letting the aftermarket develop the upgrades necessary to make it survive. Not Traxxas. We heard the call for more power so E-Revo was tested tough for durability with brutal 6S LiPo power and intense custom wound brushless motors. For the uninitiated, this extreme 65+mph motor and battery combination is ordinarily a predictable recipe for a box full of twisted and mangled parts. Not so with the E-Revo Brushless Edition. E-Revo’s driveline has been engineered to endure the kind of horsepower and punishment that’s possible with today’s motor and battery technology. It looks factory because it is factory, complete with a separate motor plate for clean, low-slung single motor installation.

tranny.jpg


erevo_speed_chart.jpg


Traxxas TQ 2.4GHz Transmitter
and 4-channel Micro Receiver
All new for E-Revo Brushless edition is Traxxas TQ 2.4GHz radio system. Traxxas' proven ergonomic TQ design now houses spread-spectrum circuitry, eliminating the need for crystals and channels. Just switch on and drive; the 2.4GHz circuitry automatically locates an open channel for glitch-free operation. The new 4-channel micro receiver has an integrated link button for fast syncing with the transmitter.

tq_24Ghz.jpg


Low-CG Chassis Design
Engineered by Traxxas, the ground-breaking molded E-Revo chassis sets a new benchmark for electric monster truck looks and performance. The E-Revo chassis combines art and function to deliver a lightweight, integrated, and rigid platform that maximizes strength and reduces weight. Scalable battery compartments accept a variety of NiMH and LiPo configurations to unlock E-Revo Brushless edition's power potential. By combining the battery compartments with the chassis design, the battery packs can sit low and close to the center of the truck, plus valuable chassis surface is freed up to accommodate the electronics for a clean layout. This keeps the center of gravity (CG) as low as possible and increases side-to-side agility by keeping most of the weight close to the center.

5608-3qtr-chassis.jpg


VS


Savage Flux

The all-new Savage Flux HP is guaranteed to wow you and your friends! Powered by the awesome Flux Tork 220 motor and twin battery packs, you will be pulling wheelies at the twitch of a finger, and getting air like nobody's business!

Easy plug-and-go convenience is the hallmark of electric RC trucks, and the Savage Flux HP is no different. Just plug in two matching battery packs and you are off and running! The Flux Blur speedo can handle massive amounts of power, and you can fit in up to 16 NiMH cells or 2 LiPo batteries (either 2S or 3S type).

Want to hit the speed limit with your monster truck? With the Savage Flux HP it's all too easy! With 2 3S LiPo batteries and on-road tyres like our #4729 or #4731 mounted Phaltlines you can hit 62 mph (100kph) in no time!

The Savage Flux HP is equipped with as many tough option parts as we could fit in, just so it can handle the power of the Flux Tork 2200 motor. We've equipped it with an all-metal gear transmission, steel spur gear, super heavy-duty dogbones, machine cut diff gears, 2.5mm TVP chassis plates, 3mm 7075 motor plate and dual 8mm billet motor clamps!

chassis.jpg

The Savage Flux HP is based on the already awesome Savage X chassis, and features a low-mounted Flux Tork 2200Kv motor in place of the big-block nitro engine, a powerful Flux Blur speedo in place of the fuel tank, and twin battery boxes hanging on the outside to hold a variety of battery types. Power your Savage Flux HP with either NiMH batteries from 6- to 8-cell size, or dual LiPo batteries with 2S 7.4v or a whopping 3S 11.1v power!

Everything else from the Savage X is carried over, including the tough all-metal gear drivetrain, powerful SF-5 metal-gear servo, machine-cut diff gears and legendary Savage suspension parts and shock towers for extreme durability! The lighter weight of the Savage Flux HP allows us to use just a single nylon shock at each corner, in BIG BORE size for excellent control and traction on any surface.

The Savage Flux HP is loaded with new and exciting features, read on to find out more!

Blur_n_Tork.jpg

The centrepiece of the Savage Flux HP is the Flux system, consisting of the Tork 2200 motor and Blur speedo - both wholly impressive in their own right, but together they form an unstoppable power force!

The Flux Tork 2200 features the coolest motor cases we've ever seen, with massive machined cooling fins that really make it look the part of an all-out power plant! With a 5mm motor shaft it can fit the upcoming optional pinion gears so you can get even MORE top speed for those insane runs, or gear it down a bit for increased acceleration on the track. The Tork 2200 is held down to the 3mm 7075 aluminium motor plate with two 8mm billet machined aluminium clamps so it won't move or shift under the immense amount of torque it can pull.

Controlling the Tork 2200 is the Flux Blur speedo, the most powerful brushless speed controller we could find. With the ability to handle twin 3S LiPo batteries (that's a total of 6S LiPo power!) it can deal with anything the Tork 2200 motor can dish out! 6mm bullet connectors secure the motor wires for loss-free connection to the 12-gauge wires, and to connect to each battery pack we've attached real Dean's connectors for zero power loss and total efficiency. We figured why re-invent the wheel and release our own connector when the best is already available? Topping off the versatility of the Flux Blur speedo (literally) is an integrated cooling fan, which allows the speedo to operate at its ideal temperature.

Finally, you have the ability to easily connect it to your computer for total programming control! With our #100573 USB Programming Kit you can connect the Blur to any Windows-based PC to control all the various facets of its power delivery, braking, throttle curves, battery cut-off and much more. You can also save various profiles to have profiles for racing, insane speed runs, stunts, fun running and more.

With the Flux Tork 2200 and Blur combo, you get all the power you can desire, with custom tuning and multiple battery handling thrown in for fun! You can get your friends saying 'what the Flux?!' as fast as you can pull the trigger! You'll have to experience it to believe it!

power_beyond_belief.jpg


SavageFlux_015.jpg

Extra-Low CG

The Flux Tork 2200 motor sits extremely low in the chassis, providing as low a centre of gravity (CG) as possible, and the twin battery packs ride on the outside of the TVP chassis members, where the tuned pipe and fuel tank on a nitro-powered Savage would usually rest. The low CG gives you extra control and cornering ability, allowing you to rule the corners on the track and pull off spectacular stunts to impress and wow your friends!

The picture to the right shows the Savage Flux HP chassis with the battery case removed, showing you how low the motor sits in the chassis.

SavageFlux_017a.jpg


Twin Battery Power

Brushless motors like the Flux Tork 2200 are already super powerful with just one battery compared to their older brushed ancestors, so you can imagine what two battery packs will be able to provide! The Savage Flux HP can take up to 16 NiMH cells (split up with 2 x 6-cell, 2 x 7-cell or 2 x 8-cell battery packs) or 2 LiPo packs of either 2S 7.4v or 3S 11.1v construction. The production battery boxes will feature loads of vents to keep the batteries cool, and we suggest using official Deans zero-loss battery plugs.

SavageFlux_019.jpg


Flux Tork 2200 Motor

The Flux Tork 2200 motor is one of the biggest and most powerful brushless motors available, and was selected specifically for its massive power delivery and voltage handling. It can take up to 25 volts of power, delivering hordes of power - plenty of juice to let to you do instant wheelies and standing backflips! The Tork 2200 is held in place with 2 machined 8mm billet aluminium motor clamps secured to the 3mm 7075 alloy motor mount to prevent it moving once the gear mesh is set. Option pinion gears will be available to fine-tune the speed and torque delivery!

SavageFlux_032.jpg


Flux Blur ESC

With the capacity to handle up to 6S LiPo power and more NiMH cells than can actually fit in the Savaage Flux HP, the Flux Blur speedo can take anything you can possibly throw at it and keep coming back for more! Fully programmable with our #100573 USB Programming Kit and fitted with fat 6mm bullet connectors, the Blur delivers power to the Tork 2200 motor in massive gulps of voltage while the integrated cooling fan keeps everything at a reasonable operating temperature.
SavageFlux_027.jpg


All-Metal Transmission Gears

The Savage Flux HP features all-metal transmission gears to make sure that power delivery is uninterrupted and every jolt of power gets from the motor to the tyres efficiently and with no worry of damage to the gears. The whole drivetrain runs on rubber-sealed ball bearings for optimal efficiency, for extra-long runtimes and mega-fast top speeds! The diffs feature the all-new Machined Super Heavy Duty Bevel Gear Set, with extra-large bearings for extreme durability! These are tougher and stronger than all other available bevel gear sets for the Savage!
SavageFlux_049.jpg


XL Tough Suspension


The Savage Flux HP features the uprights designed for the larger tyres and weight of the Savage XL, giving you the assurance that you'll be able to deal out the same abuse that all the other nitro-powered Savage trucks can handle! Beefy parts mean the Savage Flux HP can take plenty of abuse and punishment, giving you plenty of big-air thrills before a parts breakages forces you to take a break.

SavageFlux_043.jpg


Machined Super Heavy Duty Diff Gears

Equipped with the new #102246 Machined Super Heavy Duty Bevel Gear Set, you can be sure that the diffs of the Savage Flux HP will last for a long time, taking the punishment of the Flux Tork 2200 motor! The entire drivetrain can be upgraded with all the option parts available to nitro Savage owners, letting you upgrade and bulletproof your truck as desired.
86922_01.jpg

Thick Super Heavy-Duty Dogbones

Extra-thick, super duty dogbones provide the insurance you'll want when you take the Savage Flux HP way off-road and into rough country! The thick diameter, larger ends and sleek black anodizing add up to all the assurance you'll want that the drivetrain won't let you down when the going gets tough! You'll be able to commit the full power of the Tork 2200 motor to the ground without worrying about drivetrain breakages or anything else!

IMG_9264_e.jpg


Machined Steel Spur Gear

A machined steel spur gear is the perfect match for the power of the Tork 2200 motor. The pinion gear spins on a 5mm motor shaft and optional pinion gears will be available after the Savage Flux HP is launched. With the all-metal drivetrain running from the motor to transmission, and from the gearbox to the diffs, you get a huge amount of drivetrain protection with gears that won't strip, melt or break! You'll have security and peace of mind that your truck will not only perform superbly, but last as long as possible in the roughest of terrain and conditions!

SavageFlux_038.jpg

Big Bore Nylon Shocks

Four huge Big Bore shocks give all the suspension action you need to get out and blast through the roughest of tracks or off-road terrain. With slick nylon bodies they are lightweight and strong, with almost no friction 'stiction' between the shock piston and shock body. The extra-large capacity gives you extra control and damping action so you have the driving feel that makes off-road driving so much fun!

SavageFlux_042.jpg

SF-5 High Torque Metal Gear Steering Servo

HPI designers settled on a super-strong, extra-tough high torque metal gear servo. With nearly 9kg of force per centimeter (that's 126psi!), the SF-5 will get the GT-2 tyres turning easily at any speed! There's no need to upgrade the servo for anything else - this baby's got it all! With the bellcrank steering and built-in servo saver, you can be sure that the SF-5 will be fully protected against crash damage or bad landings, too!

SavageFlux_046.jpg



Thanks GOD for the COPY and PASTE!
 
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Personally, i like both, but for fun ??? the Savage hands down. I have watched too many videos of the old savages to know this one is gonna be an absolute monster. Besides, can u imagine programming that ESC via usb and a computer ?? thats just OFF THE WALL !!!
 
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I plan one day to get the E-Revo BL version but as the Savage can take more beatings I'm sure
 
that's what I'm thinking as well,Savage seems much more stronger,all metal gears etc and it also has lot's of hop ups while E-revo BL is a e-REvo with mamba monster esc...no other mods taken.
 
Go Savage Bartek, it makes more sense, more work and more upgrades have been put into to handle the new power.

You know me enough by now to know i wouldn't take chances on "Sub Par" rigs, which that new e-revo looks to be.

I mean C'mon, a speeding bullet like that with a plastic chassis ? jeeeez, talk about a recipe for disaster.

It's either a plastic chassis, or me eyes deceive me in what i see and read, E.G. "the ground-breaking molded E-Revo chassis " that, to me at least equates to a moulded glass reinforced plastic chassis
 
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here is a great comparison vidio of the two by squirrel...squirrel is like the master lol..any way here is the video [ame="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9UXqzqKKwJc"]Squirrel's BL Revo Vs Flux Comparison vid![/ame]...enjoy
 
Hey, don't knock plastic too much. Especially what ever RPM puts in their stuff. I am reffering to chassis and suspension parts not gears. ;) It gives and returns to natural state. Metal gives little or bends. If it don't give in the metal then something else has to compensate many times more... other stuff more important. Just putting 2 pennies in.

BTW got to love Squirrel.
 
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Sure RPM is good stuff.....and they sell a lot of it thanks to Traxxas. I have never needed an RPM part for an HPI. But I agree the Savage would be the better basher. Revo is a better racer.......my money would be on the Savage for sure. But I will still get a Baja before either of those. Lipos are still to expensive IMO.
 
Lipos are still to expensive IMO.
...and explosive. Yes it is sad that technology for electric surpassed nitro in torq. The failing point is that it takes a chemical bomb strapped to it to make it a beast. :OMG::jet:
 
actually...............i'm suprised Li-Ion didn't get a look in.

Chemical bomb ? explain please.
 
just few facts about lipo's and how danger they are:
[ame]http://www.metacafe.com/watch/788668/worlds_most_dangerous_battery/[/ame]
1. Charging/Saftey IMPORTANT!
Until you are willing to follow all saftey precautions, DO NOT use lithium batteries. If your a type of person that prefers to push the limits of products, or be haphazard about following saftey requirements. Lithium technology is not for you. Read on to find out why.

Lithium cells must be charged very differently than NiCad or NiMH. They require a special charger specifically designed to charge lithium cells. In general any charger that can charge lithium ion can charge lithium polymer, assuming that the cell count is correct. You must NEVER charge lithium cells with a NiCad or NiMH only battery charger. This is dangerous. Charging cells is the most hazardous part of using lithium batteries. EXTREME care must be taken when charging them. It is important to set your charger to the correct voltage or cell count. Failure to do this can cause the battery to spew violent flames. There have been many fires directly caused by lithium batteries. PLEASE BE RESPONSIBLE when charging lithium batteries.

Here are a few MANDATORY guidelines for charging/using LiPos (Lithium Polymer Batteries).


1. Use only a charger approved for lithium batteries. The charger may be designed for Li-Ion or Li-Poly. Both batteries are charged in exactly the same. Some older cell phone chargers may charge the batteries .1 volt to low (4.1 vs 4.2), but that will not harm the battery. However, inexpensive lithium chargers are widely available and the use of cellphone chargers is highly discouraged.
2. Make certain that the correct cell count is set on your charger. Watch the charger very closely for the first few minutes to ensure that the correct cell count continues to be displayed. If you don't know how to do that, get a charger that you do know how or don't charge the batteries.
3. Use the Taps. Before you charge a new Lithium pack, check the voltage of each cell individually. Then do this after every tenth cycle there after. This is absolutely critical in that an unbalanced pack can explode while charging even if the correct cell count is chosen. If the cells are not within 0.1 volts of each other then charge each cell individually to 4.2 volts so that they are all equal. If after every discharge the pack is unbalanced you have a faulty cell and that pack must be replaced.
Taps are provided on most new lithium packs. Taps give you the ability to check individual cell voltages and charge one cell at a time. Make sure and get the appropriate connector to go into your taps. Don't try to stick you volt meter probes in the taps to measure voltage. They could slip and short your cells. Don't try to charge more than one cell at a time from the taps. Unless you have an isolated ground charging system, you'll short your batteries out. Refer to your individual cell maker for tap pin-outs.
4. NEVER charge the batteries unattended. This is the number one reason for houses and cars being burned to a crisp by lithium fires.
5. Use a safe surface to charge your batteries on so that if they burst into flame no damage will occur. Vented fire safes, pyrex dishes with sand in the bottom, fireplaces, plant pots, are all good options.
6. DO NOT CHARGE AT MORE THAN 1C unless specifically authorized by the pack vendor. I have personally had a fire in my home because of violating this rule. Todays highest discharge batteries can supposedly be safely charged at greater than 1C, however so far in all cases doing so shortens the life of the pack. Better to buy 3 packs than to try to charge 1 pack 3 times quickly. This may change in the future but as of Winter 2005 1C is still the recommended charge rate.
7. DO NOT puncture the cell, ever. If a cell balloons quickly place it in a fire safe place, especially if you were charging it when it ballooned. After you have let the cell sit in the fire safe place for at least 2 hours. Discharge the cell/pack slowly. This can be done by wiring a flashlight bulb of appropriate voltage (higher is voltage is ok, lower voltage is no) up to your batteries connector type and attaching the bulb to the battery. Wait until the light is completely off, then throw the battery away.
8. If you crash with your lithium cells they may be damaged such that they are shorted inside. The cells may look just fine. If you crash in ANY way carefully remove the battery pack from the aircraft and watch it carefully for at least the next 20 min. Several fires have been caused by damaged cells being thrown in the car and then the cells catch fire later and destroys the car completely.
9. Charge your batteries in a open ventilated area. If a battery does rupture or explode hazardous fumes and material will spew from the battery.
10. Keep a bucket of sand nearby when you are flying or charging batteries. This is a cost effective way to extinguish fires. This is very cheap and absolutly necessary.
11. It can happen to you, do not think to yourself that “it won't happen to me” as soon as you do that it you'll be trying to rescue your kids from your burning house or car. I'm very serious about this.

Now that we have covered that important topic let's move on to lighter matters:

2. Lithium What?
Lithium Polymer batteries are used in many electronic devices. Cell Phone, Laptops, PDA's, Hearing Aids just to name a few. Most, if not all, lithium polymer batteries are not designed for RC use, we use them in different applications than they were designed for. They are similar to Lithium Ion batteries in that they each have a nominal voltage of 3.6 volts, but dissimilar in that they do not have a hard metal casing but rather a flexible material encloses the chemicals inside. The "normal" lithium polymer batteries are thin rectangle shapes with two tabs on the top one positive one negative. The reason we use Lithium cells is that they are significantly lighter than comparable NiCad or NiMH batteries, which makes our planes fly longer and better.

3. Voltage and Cell Count:
LiPolys act differently than NiCad or NiMH batteries do when charging and discharging. Lithium batteries are fully charged when each cell has a voltage of 4.2 volts. They are fully discharged when each cell has a voltage of 3.0 volts. It is important not to exceed both the high voltage of 4.2 volts and the low voltage of 3.0 volts. Exceeding these limits can harm the battery.
The way to ensure that you do not go below 3.0 volts while flying is to set the low voltage cutoff (LVC) of your electronic speed control (ESC). It important to use a programmable ESC since the correct voltage cutoff is critical to the life of your batteries. Use the ESC's programming mode to set the LVC to 3.0 volts per cell with a hard cutoff, or 3.3 volts per cell with a soft cutoff. If your ESC does not have hard or soft cutoff, use 3.0 volts per cell. You will know when flying that it is time to land when you experience a sudden drop in power caused by the LVC.
If your ESC has an automatic lithium mode. Use it, it will correctly sense the number of cells and set the auto cutoff appropriately.
If you have previously been flying with NiCad or NiMH batteries, switching over to lithium polymer will result in a different number of cells being used. If you had 6 to 7 round cells then 2 lithium polymer cells will correctly duplicate the voltage of those cells. If you had 10-11 cells then 3 lithium polymer cells would be right for you. There are a lot of 8 cell flyer's out there that are stuck between 2 and 3 cells. In my experience the best option is to determine how many watts you were using before and duplicate that with your LiPos, Motor, and Prop. For example. If you were running 8 cells (9.6volts) at 10 amps on a speed 400 airplane, then you have 9.6 x10, 96 watts. So if you went with 2 lithium polymer cells (7.2 volts nominal) then you'd need to change your prop such that you used 13 amps. If you went to 3 LiPoly's (10.8 volts nominal) then you'd need to reduce the amperage to 8.9 amps. These estimates are approximate, and some experimentation is required for best results but conserving Watts is a good way to start.

4.10C from 3S4P? Naming conventions explained.
How fast a battery can discharge is it's maximum current capacity. Current is generally rated in C's for the battery. C is how long it takes to discharge the battery in fractions of an hour. For instance 1 C discharges the battery in 1/1 hours or 1 hour. 2 C discharges the battery in ½ or half an hour. All RC batteries are rated in milli Amp hours. If a battery is rated at 2000 mAh and you discharge it at 2000mA (or 2 amps, 1 amp = 1000mA) it will be completely discharged in one hour. The C rating of the battery is thus based on its capacity. A 2000mAh cell discharged a 2 amps is being discharged at 1C (2000mA x 1), a 2000mAh cell discharged at 6 amps is being discharged at 3C( 2000mA x 3).
All batteries have limitations on how fast they can discharge. Because of this many LiPoly batteries are put in parallel to increase the current capacity of the battery pack. When 2 batteries are wired positive to positive and negative to negative they become like one battery with double the capacity. If you have 2 2000mAh cells and you wire them in parallel then the result is the same as 1 4000mAh cell. This 4000mAh cell has the same C rating as the original 2000mAh cells did. Thus if the 2000mAh cells could discharge at a maximum of 5C, or 10 amps then the new 4000mAh cell can also discharge at 5C or (4000mA x 5) 20 amps. This method of battery pack building allows us to use LiPoly batteries at higher currents than single cells could produce.
The naming convention that allows you to decipher how many cells are in parallel and how many are in series is the XSXP method. The number in front of the S represents the number of series cells in the pack so 3S means it's a 3 cell pack. The number in front of P means the number of cells in parallel. So a 3S4P pack of 2100mAh cells has a total of 12 cells inside. It will have the voltage of any other 3S pack since the number of cells in series determines the voltage. It will have the current handling of 4 times the maximum C rating of the 12 individual cells. So say our 3S4P pack had a maximum discharge of 6C. That means that it has a nominal voltage of 10.8 volts (3x3.6) and a maximum discharge rate of 50.4 amps (2100mAh x 6Cx4P ).

5. Which battery should you buy?
With so many choices out there it is difficult to decipher what is marketing hype, what is brand
loyalty, and what is outright lies. Battery manufacturers are constantly trying to one up one another. While capitalism can drive prices down, it also can give cause to false claims about products.
One great way to find out what the best battery is, is to look at graphs of the batteries performance. Looking at how low the voltage of the cell drops at various amperages will give you a metric to compare that battery to similar size/weight batteries.
If graphs aren't your thing then simply look at what other people are using in successful setups that are similar to your application. If a lot of people are reporting long flight times and lots of power from airplane X, with power system Y, and battery Z and you do the same, then if your setup is similar the same battery will probably work well for you.
It pays to learn something about Watts, Volts, and Amps. Understanding these concepts is beyond the scope of this document, but can serve you well in not only figuring out what battery is best but also in your electric aircraft hobby.
I'm not convinced that a 30C battery is really any better than a 10 or 20C battery. Sure a higher C rating means it can discharge faster. But at the same time a battery discharged at 20C continuously will be empty in 3 minutes. Do you really only want to use the battery for 3 minutes? I love having burst power in helicopters and boats, but in almost all other applications actually running a battery at or above 20C is useless to me. I prefer to run batteries at 8-10 C and have a little headroom if I need it.
A final note on choosing a battery. Don't cheap out. Confirm that your batteries are capable of running that the amperage level you plan to use them at. Running a cell at a higher C rating than the battery can handle can not only damage your batteries, but it can also damage your speed control. Castle Creations has an excellent article on how using a weak battery can destroy a perfectly good speed control of any brand. Better to buy a bit better battery than you need than to destroy your electronics.

6. Dealing with temperature.
Lithium batteries like heat, but not too much. In the winter time, try to keep your batteries from the cold as much as possible. Leave them in the car while your flying, or keep them in your cargo pants... etc. At the same time don't let them heat up too much. Try to keep your batteries from reaching 160F after use. This will prolong the life of the cells. A good way to measure temperature is a handheld IR meter.

and that's why lipo's are called chemical bombs,wouldn't be surprise if they get banned in few countries...
 
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Flux or ERBE

It depends on what you plan to do. If you're racing at the track go with the ERBE. If you're bashin' go with the Savage Flux. Both are fun and fast! I have both and they both are great to run. I posted videos of both on youtube under callog1. Check it out and decide!
 
Savage, hands down. Even the 3.3 nitro Revos are less durable than ANY Savage. Sure, a Savage isn't built for racing like a Revo is but I don't race anyways. Throw in the plastic chassis on the ERevo and it's like comparing a Fiat to an M1 Abrams.
 
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