During the first tank of Break in the engine was idling in a way that it fluctuates high and then it goes back down to normal!

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newnitro2020

Gone - bye bye.
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Of all the studies I've done I had a chance to take this thing out and start the engine for the very first time. The only thing I did was I just had it set on my bump start and let it ran till the fuel tank gets about empty. I noticed on the first tank of Breakin just letting it sit on idle, the engine idle sound will go high a tiny bit and then died down back to normal. I took a video of this. Now I went out again today and ran the second team and let it set on the bump start it did the same thing but only this time the wheels were starting to creep up moving.


I know the low speed needle is Rich because it's getting a lot of smoke from the pipe and spits out burnt oil which is like a clear yellow color. But it's not spitting out raw fuel. It would just speed up a tiny bit as if someone applying the trigger and then it would just die down it wasn't doing it constantly but every 3 to 5 minutes sort of. I did not want to touch the high speed and I tried to avoid touching the low end because I'm thinking that it's already rich so can somebody tell me the right direction. I thought I was going to go out and have a good time which I did but again I was just concerned I just didn't know how to identify the problem as far as addressing it. Only thing I did was adjust the idle a tiny bit but you had the problem the engine a whole lot to get it to start though it wouldn't start right away. There's several questions I have that I'm going to list by number.



I noticed when the tank got empty on the second tank of fuel the engine started a grass but that was when the engine was about to be empty. On the first tank when I ran the engine only thing it did when it was about to get empty was it just stalled basically. So I'm noticing a change on the second tank as far as just letting the engine on the starter box. I'm confused. May come off as a dumbass but I'm not trying to basically I'm just confused..


 
During break in, your engine is wearing in to itself, the piston and sleeve are become “one” and wearing in, and idle fluctuations because of this are completely normal. If the idle goes up or down a little, don’t stress. Engines during break in can be temperamental and all over the place. As long as your engine isn’t lean, or revving to the moon out of control, you are totally okay and you can adjust idle and stuff later. Having said that, depending on what engine you have, it won’t fully behave, idle correctly and flawlessly, and tune spot on UNTIL it’s broke in, which can take anywhere from 2 quarts to even a gallon for super tight race engines. If it’s this kyosho, get a few quarts ran through it and tune it properly,and you will see it become more reliable as long as your tuning correctly.
 
During break in, your engine is wearing in to itself, the piston and sleeve are become “one” and wearing in, and idle fluctuations because of this are completely normal. If the idle goes up or down a little, don’t stress. Engines during break in can be temperamental and all over the place. As long as your engine isn’t lean, or revving to the moon out of control, you are totally okay and you can adjust idle and stuff later. Having said that, depending on what engine you have, it won’t fully behave, idle correctly and flawlessly, and tune spot on UNTIL it’s broke in, which can take anywhere from 2 quarts to even a gallon for super tight race engines. If it’s this kyosho, get a few quarts ran through it and tune it properly,and you will see it become more reliable as long as your tuning correctly.

Here's a video update I just came home from the third tank and I had to adjust the idle a tiny bit but I did not just sit by 1/8 turn I adjusted by just a small twist. so it's kind of like one of them turns that you can do on a screw that looks like you've barely even turning the screw. It fluctuates a little bit but a lot less and you can barely even hear it fluctuate. so and I know it's two it wasn't running extremely hot or when it got to about empty it wasn't speeding up to half throttle that's what the second tank was doing.

 
Another thing that will cause the fluxuation of the idle ,is the rich settings ,it is the
engine loading up on fuel ,some times its good to blip the throttle every now & then ,
to clear some out!..:thumbs-up:
 
Another thing that will cause the fluxuation of the idle ,is the rich settings ,it is the
engine loading up on fuel ,some times its good to blip the throttle every now & then ,
to clear some out!..:thumbs-up:
thanks i will keep that in mind
 
It's always a must to change out your glow plug after the break in because it ran rich. After a fresh plug it should run pretty good.
 
Good for you man, sounds like it’s idling great. I didn’t want to overload you with information but I myself “tune” my engines a little during break in, but only if absolutely needed. Also, those tiny turns your doing of the screws are perfect. 1/4 and 1/8 turns are for the birds, always do small adjustments just like you’re doing and eventually you will get a good tune after break in. Make sure your engine is getting up to 200-230 degrees F also.
 
Good for you man, sounds like it’s idling great. I didn’t want to overload you with information but I myself “tune” my engines a little during break in, but only if absolutely needed. Also, those tiny turns your doing of the screws are perfect. 1/4 and 1/8 turns are for the birds, always do small adjustments just like you’re doing and eventually you will get a good tune after break in. Make sure your engine is getting up to 200-230 degrees F also.

I do too ,to keep those temps up ,an for the fact that the engine really does not need to be that rich
after a few tanks ,it is actually easier on the engine if you lean it a little!..:thumbs-up:
 
It's always a must to change out your glow plug after the break in because it ran rich. After a fresh plug it should run pretty good.
It's funny you said that because I had thought in my mind and I thought it was just in my head that even if the glow plug is good and bright. you should change it the new one anyway after break in always thought about that in my mind but I never asked anybody about it. Kind of odd because I'm thinking somebody's probably reading when I be thinking about. Thank you for confirming something that was thinking about that I never even asked anyone about. Beautiful just beautiful.
 
Good for you man, sounds like it’s idling great. I didn’t want to overload you with information but I myself “tune” my engines a little during break in, but only if absolutely needed. Also, those tiny turns your doing of the screws are perfect. 1/4 and 1/8 turns are for the birds, always do small adjustments just like you’re doing and eventually you will get a good tune after break in. Make sure your engine is getting up to 200-230 degrees F also.
Okay well I didn't feel like bringing no temperature device. I literally don't have a car so I carried his stuff by hand. But I normally touch the head on the top and most of it, it's mostly just warm but not hot. the only time it gets hot is when the fuel tank gets about empty. I have unpublished video of actually driving this thing for the first time yesterday and notice that it's extremely rich even though it doesn't seem like it at first. But not in the way that it will spit out wrong fuel but just burnt oil.




But you were saying that I should have it at 200 degrees? Well what if I ran it and it's not at 200? But that be a problem? I basically did it recorded yesterday just barely pulling the trigger just to move the car around and then Coast.


If anybody can answer this stuff let me know. I'm not going to release the videos until I believe I can you just get the strength enough I'm using GoPro because I don't have no cameraman. Problem with that is the sound is not always accurate it kind of be snuffed.
 
I do too ,to keep those temps up ,an for the fact that the engine really does not need to be that rich
after a few tanks ,it is actually easier on the engine if you lean it a little!..:thumbs-up:




Well I'm doing several recordings the First Recording as you saw was me breaking in the engine just sitting on idle three times. Turn on partial throttle not getting to half throttle. I did that three times. Now I'm on the stage where on a plain half throttle which makes it easier to drive then the first several steps.


I did a recording yesterday I have not released it because it needs to be edited. Plus I'm thinking this time I should use something other than the GoPro because it's snuff the sound completely. So I have an idea that I'm going to try. I wish I had a camera man. You can't just hold a camera and then look at the car and drive. Especially if you're driving in front of a CVS store.


Getting to the setting I never we'll probably going to touch the low speed needle mostly because it's not necessary based on the first several tanks that I observed it on, as far as performance and amount of fuel that is getting. But the high speed needle i'm thinking about just turning it one hour extra as for lean. Because I think for my experience and failing with these things but if it's small block or big block, you have to almost use too much fuel just to get to the part where the engine starts to warm up or lean. For my other videos I shown a few months ago I talked about this.
 
It's funny you said that because I had thought in my mind and I thought it was just in my head that even if the glow plug is good and bright. you should change it the new one anyway after break in always thought about that in my mind but I never asked anybody about it. Kind of odd because I'm thinking somebody's probably reading when I be thinking about. Thank you for confirming something that was thinking about that I never even asked anyone about. Beautiful just beautiful.
Glad you was thinking about it....:D
 
Glad you was thinking about it....:D
really curiosity because people say that if a rich engine could damage the glow plug imagine after you done breaking in that the glow plug may not be the same as far as function. So if you tune an engine with the same glow plug even though it works you might actually deceive yourself. It's no different than when a person drives a car and choose it and doesn't warm it up to its optimal temperature. But in the globe plus case you need a full functioning one and not one that's been previously used based on the rich setting cuz it throws off the engine. It may look good for a bit but can throw it off. That's why before I even did this I bought extra glow plugs I'm waiting for the extra one to come.




Did you know that but most people say that a rich setting isn't going to damage the engine but Rob's performance, that may be true. But if you foul out glow plugs if you don't have everything set right the cost of them is equal the same amount of price as replacing a piston, sleeve and Rod. The person files out three or four glow plugs that's about $40. Sometimes a piston and sleeve replacement depending on the brand and costs about 42 about 60 bucks.



I watched a video of a guy who said he didn't like Nitro because you always blew out glow plugs. And he would run his Jato but it won't always stall even though he claimed he tuned it. But I think that people's way of tuning is different which is why I've had a lot of conflicting problems with understanding stuff. If an engine has fouled out glow plugs and keeps doing it better something with either a rich setting or lean setting.



Keep in mind folks!

If you see this! That a rich setting can damage a glow plug just as more significant then I lean setting. Cuz you're dealing with raw fuel or you might deal with something that has too much fuel going through it. What are the worst types of foul out glow plugs is raw fuel mini on burnt fuel going through the engine and spitting out the exhaust.


If a engine does that then you're way too rich. It should spit out burnt oil at a lot of it but not unburnt fuel. Because that tells you the temperature of the engine and reliability which is noticeable it's not going to run as far as starting problems and cold starts even worse.


That's what I kind of think in my opinion hope this helps.
 
Great review on what your doing ,it is always good to record it to ,you can always go back to
your own vid an review it to see where any mistakes were made!..:thumbs-up:

You can also try a heat cycle that helps the piston lap into the sleeve ,because that is actually what
takes place when you are breaking in an engine on a very rich setting!

You might be interested in this break-in method by Mark Santa Maria!

 

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