DTS-1 Modifications

[WickedFog]

hello i think you have done an amazing job. i do have a simple quwstion I'm hoping you can help with. i have a vision problem and just want to add some brighter lights to the staging and the green lights. i realize staging has 3 seperate parts. is there any way you could e_mail me ? [email protected] i wont take up much of your time

Best to post your email in a private message so you don't attract the dastardly spam bots.

 

[jarred77]

Best to post your email in a private message so you don't attract the dastardly spam bots.

Oh thank you I'm not even sure how to do that honestly I'll look around this is the only write up on modifying the DTs that I could find on the internet

 

[WickedFog]

Oh thank you I'm not even sure how to do that honestly I'll look around this is the only write up on modifying the DTs that I could find on the internet

Just click on @johnnydmd's avatar and click "start conversation" to message him privately.

 

[jarred77]

Just click on @johnnydmd's avatar and click "start conversation" to message him privately.

All set thank you very much yeah I figured it out shortly after talking to you

 

[johnnydmd]

Doing a lot of work on the tree.

First, put a carbon fiber stabilizer on the front (a teammate had obliterated the wood one, lol). Also realized that for transport I can actually lay the light pole down. Tested that theory.

Now I'm working on the yellow countdown lights, which are simply too dim. The red/green ones are fine and plenty bright. Found some amber ones to try out, and they are much brighter.

So I'm gonna replace all of the countdown lights. Probably leave the staging lights alone, it's a PITA to rip that assembly apart since I glued all of the lights in place. These new ones I'm making it easier to change bulbs in case of burnout.

 

[Doom!]

Always room for fine tuning.

 

[johnnydmd]

Always room for fine tuning.

Indeed. Making this easier to work on when bulbs burn out is something that needed to be done as well. I still haven't ruled out replacing the DTS-1 boards with my own relay/switch design I came up with last year. Winter is a long time around here.

 

[Doom!]

I know you were under a bit of a time crunch when you put it together, it's still amazing how well it works.

 

[JohnnyDC1]

Made a ton of progress, and got the base finished. Got started on the lane timers too, and got it working!

The biggest fun was all the de-soldering and soldering of the new lights.
View attachment 144517

Then I finished up the base, and tested. Everything worked as before.
View attachment 144518

Then I took the top off, and got busy trying to figure out the lasers and the relays and timer. It wound up being even simpler than I planned.
View attachment 144519

After I got the first lane timer working, I put in an order for a second. (Didn't want to waste any more cash if I couldn't make it work).

It's actually pretty simple once I got the hang of the relays and what they required. It uses two relays per lane timer. The first one is hooked to the stage laser, and goes to the timer reset. The second is hooked to the first laser in the speed trap, and goes to the timer stop. The timer start is jumped, so that when you trigger a reset, it begins timing.

So it works like this:

When the operator presses the system set button, the lane timers then begin counting - giving the drivers a handy indicator to get to the stage before the 25 seconds allotted is up. (this is really just a convenient, unplanned but useful side effect). When a driver reaches stage, the timer goes into reset mode, and goes blank. Also a good side effect, to prevent any eye distractions from LED's. When they leave, the circuit goes back open, and the timer starts counting. Then when they cross the first trap laser, the timer stops. Simple really.

To keep this accurate, I am running a 130 foot cable between the tree and the trap that connects the lasers to the relays for the stop function. It'll use protectors to keep it flat so cars car run over it in cases of crossing lanes.

I'm going to upload all of the STL files and write up a more comprehensive guide next week, in case anyone else is crazy enough to try this. I think the effort was well worth it, but man I see now why a Trackmate system is 3k.

Made a ton of progress, and got the base finished. Got started on the lane timers too, and got it working!

The biggest fun was all the de-soldering and soldering of the new lights.
View attachment 144517

Then I finished up the base, and tested. Everything worked as before.
View attachment 144518

Then I took the top off, and got busy trying to figure out the lasers and the relays and timer. It wound up being even simpler than I planned.
View attachment 144519

After I got the first lane timer working, I put in an order for a second. (Didn't want to waste any more cash if I couldn't make it work).

It's actually pretty simple once I got the hang of the relays and what they required. It uses two relays per lane timer. The first one is hooked to the stage laser, and goes to the timer reset. The second is hooked to the first laser in the speed trap, and goes to the timer stop. The timer start is jumped, so that when you trigger a reset, it begins timing.

So it works like this:

When the operator presses the system set button, the lane timers then begin counting - giving the drivers a handy indicator to get to the stage before the 25 seconds allotted is up. (this is really just a convenient, unplanned but useful side effect). When a driver reaches stage, the timer goes into reset mode, and goes blank. Also a good side effect, to prevent any eye distractions from LED's. When they leave, the circuit goes back open, and the timer starts counting. Then when they cross the first trap laser, the timer stops. Simple really.

To keep this accurate, I am running a 130 foot cable between the tree and the trap that connects the lasers to the relays for the stop function. It'll use protectors to keep it flat so cars car run over it in cases of crossing lanes.

I'm going to upload all of the STL files and write up a more comprehensive guide next week, in case anyone else is crazy enough to try this. I think the effort was well worth it, but man I see now why a Trackmate system is 3k.

Hi my name is john from the netherlands and i,m also wanna make this .
I have an old dts-1 so i have a question .
Where can i find the stl files and what parts did you use and what type of cable??

 

[johnnydmd]

I could upload the STL's somewhere this week. I used 16g wire for the wiring.

 

[JohnnyDC1]

I could upload the STL's somewhere this week. I used 16g wire for the wiring.

Ok thnx i already have all the Electric stuff but no wire and print files can you send me a message where you put them?

 

[JohnnyDC1]

Ok thnx i already have all the Electric stuff but no wire and print files can you send me a message where you put them?

Did you already upload the files ??

 

[johnnydmd]

Did you already upload the files ??

Sorry - have not - will get to it this week

 

[johnnydmd]

Ok thnx i already have all the Electric stuff but no wire and print files can you send me a message where you put them?

https://martianbackup.com/diamondracing/tree parts/

 

[johnnydmd]

I have made the decision to upgrade to a Trackmate system. Mostly for the reason that I wanted printed out timeslips, as well as a non-proprietary speedtrap since few of us use TQI radios.

https://trackmateracing.com/shop/en...am-single_start_beam/104-60_foot_sensors-none

This means that I am looking to sell this modded DTS-1 system. Local pickup only (Frederick, Maryland). PM me if interested.

 

[johnnydmd]

If anyone local to Maryland wants to buy this system - PM me, it's for sale.