Do i need a new engine (yes I'm new to nitro rc

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Bgsoccergoalie

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So I'm older guy and bought my first nitro rc a couple months ago (volcano s30). I've probably only ran the car 8 times. From the very beginning I had problems with getting it started, i broke the pull start almost immediately, purchased a drill starter thinking it would be easier to start, well I was wrong, for some reason the engine would flood as so as I try to start, and after cranking and cranking un flooding and cranking I'd get it running well the last time I ran it I noticed metal shavings coming out by the starter plate. But it still started and ran. Well after putting it up for a week I brought it back out and tried to start it up and now the drill just spins, the engine hardly even makes a noise or the fly wheel spins a little but the drills spining as normal but the engine isnt doing anything.. I took the engine out took the starter off all gears look fine, I pulled the one way bearing out cleaned it , that looks fine. Idk what else to do besides buy a new engine. Does anyone have any suggestions or ideas what's happened before I purchase a new engine. And take it easy on me guys. I'm like 30years old I always wanted a nitro rc as a kid so I went and got one, I've done alot of research I've been searching for 2 weeks now trying to find an answer to my problem but can't seem to find any post that fit my scenario.
 
There was metal shavings near the starter plate, but you got it running. After that, you've pulled it apart and everything looked good. I've never used a drill starter before, but it sounds like maybe something is starting to wear out where you hook up the drill to the motor to turn it over. As far as it spinning, but the engine isn't turning over - Was this before or after you pulled everything out? Any chance you put the one-way-bearing in backwards? If its not the 1-way bearing, or the adapter on the back plate (or the chuck on your drill), then make sure the glow plug is in properly. Then try turning the engine over by hand. If it still spins and you don't feel resistance as the piston pumps up into the cylinder, there's definitely a bigger issue going on.
 
So I'm older guy and bought my first nitro rc a couple months ago (volcano s30). I've probably only ran the car 8 times. From the very beginning I had problems with getting it started, i broke the pull start almost immediately, purchased a drill starter thinking it would be easier to start, well I was wrong, for some reason the engine would flood as so as I try to start, and after cranking and cranking un flooding and cranking I'd get it running well the last time I ran it I noticed metal shavings coming out by the starter plate. But it still started and ran. Well after putting it up for a week I brought it back out and tried to start it up and now the drill just spins, the engine hardly even makes a noise or the fly wheel spins a little but the drills spining as normal but the engine isnt doing anything.. I took the engine out took the starter off all gears look fine, I pulled the one way bearing out cleaned it , that looks fine. Idk what else to do besides buy a new engine. Does anyone have any suggestions or ideas what's happened before I purchase a new engine. And take it easy on me guys. I'm like 30years old I always wanted a nitro rc as a kid so I went and got one, I've done alot of research I've been searching for 2 weeks now trying to find an answer to my problem but can't seem to find any post that fit my scenario.
as far as the metal shavings at the starter plate, and then running afterwards, i am at a loss on that, maybe double check what the exterior of the backplate looks like if it looks like it had some scraping goign on or something. might remove the cooling head for peace of mind, but if you are getting shavings from the backplate, not really much of a possibility of shavings from that getting there, unless its coming from the exhaust port.
i guess my advise would be to double check the one way bearing on correctly as far as orientation, and make sure it is engaging the crankshaft.
also check the connecting rod, make sure it is still in one piece, and no excessive play.
rotostart by way of drillstart is handy, but the biggest thing is it can overpower the internal components and break parts if the engine is flooded and gets hydrolocked. make sure the clutch setting on the drill is set really loose, but tight enought to be able to start it.
given it was flooded many times i would check the glow plug, and make sure the glow plug is burning bright orange.
ensure your fuel lines are sealing correctly, all gaskets to exhaust are sealing tight.
might also post some pictures too so we can see what you are working with to be able to better help you.
 
Thanks for the replies yal. So I'm at work till this after noon I'll send pics then. But to answer a couple quick questions. I didnt take anything apart until the issue started. The fly wheel spins by hand but there is a bit of resistance idk if that's normal. It's an internal owb so it really can only go in one way. But that also seems fine. For the record it's a redcat volcano s30 . Sh.18 engine. I'll show pics later. Also the metal shavings seem to be coming from the back plate of the starter I installed but the gears are perfectly intact just seems to be the coating that came off
 
If you take your glow plug out, can you turn the engine over with the fly wheel?

If not you've likely broken your conrod.

I don't like the drill starters because if you have a flooded engine you can still force it to turn over. You are better off with a bump box as it can at least slip on the rubber wheel if you get hydrolock.

When you start the engine are you priming the fuel line? If it floods you should remove the flow of and purge some of the excess fuel before trying to start it again.

My guess is that you just worn out the key-way in the starting location and your drill is spinning in the now too large hole.

Don't give up on it you should be able to repair it, or fix the pull start.
 
There is nothing wrong with the drill start option if you set the clutch on the drill to slip. I usually set the clutch 1/2 way so it slips when the engine floods. I suspect the shavings are from the starter. The engine is probably not set correct on the needle settings causing the flooding and not starting.
 
Did you break the motor in correctly? As stated the drill start is handy. Metal shavings are never a good sign. Got to find the source. I wouldnt run until found.
 
Did you break the motor in correctly? As stated the drill start is handy. Metal shavings are never a good sign. Got to find the source. I wouldnt run until found.
I like to think I broke it in correctly but it is my first nitro so chances are I didnt although I followed all the steps and procedures. Abd not to worry about running I can't get it to even gurgle when trying to start it
 
Remove the glow plug and try and turn over by hand. It should spin freely and have some resistance. If it doesn't move then you will have to remove the backplate and see what the problem is?
 
You probably killed the O-way bearing if you noticed shavings at the starter plate!
New engines are set filthy rich from factory for a break-in procedure in which those
settings can do more harm then good ,thus ,a break-in procedure is a delicate process!
Now in the new generation of a break-in process ,people are leaning toward of sending
their engines in to have a oil bath break-in done first now these days!
The new engines have a lot of pinch in the sleeve were the piston has to wear in ,also
the engine will have a ton of compression ,an then you throw a ton of fuel on that will
make a disaster!
The proper way to break-in an engine ,is by heat from a heat gun ,but is really not needed ,
I have broken engines in with out heat saturation with success ,by simply loosening up the
glow plug to help release the pressure ,an leaning the fuel down for the first start up ,then
once the engine starts an stays running ,I remove the glow igniter ,tighten up the glow plug ,
an richen the needle back up while running!
It takes finesse
to break-in an engine ,the idle gap setting also plays a role in keeping the
engine running on such a fat fuel mixture ,the carb barrel will have to be set more open
to keep the engine running ,an possibly some quick blips of the throttle to clear the ecessive
fuel out so you dont drown out the engine!
 
You probably killed the O-way bearing if you noticed shavings at the starter plate!
New engines are set filthy rich from factory for a break-in procedure in which those
settings can do more harm then good ,thus ,a break-in procedure is a delicate process!
Now in the new generation of a break-in process ,people are leaning toward of sending
their engines in to have a oil bath break-in done first now these days!
The new engines have a lot of pinch in the sleeve were the piston has to wear in ,also
the engine will have a ton of compression ,an then you throw a ton of fuel on that will
make a disaster!
The proper way to break-in an engine ,is by heat from a heat gun ,but is really not needed ,
I have broken engines in with out heat saturation with success ,by simply loosening up the
glow plug to help release the pressure ,an leaning the fuel down for the first start up ,then
once the engine starts an stays running ,I remove the glow igniter ,tighten up the glow plug ,
an richen the needle back up while running!
It takes finesse
to break-in an engine ,the idle gap setting also plays a role in keeping the
engine running on such a fat fuel mixture ,the carb barrel will have to be set more open
to keep the engine running ,an possibly some quick blips of the throttle to clear the ecessive
fuel out so you dont drown out the engine!
FYI! One way bearings don't leave shavings; stripped gears do. One way bearings always fail when the roller pins fall out. He replace the pull starter with a gear drive system after breaking the pull start rope.. The engine ran fine for a while and now it doesn't. A heat gun isn't going to make a difference now. I have had pull starters last a long time. They only break when the engine is flooded. I suspect he is constantly flooding engine when trying to start it and not setting the drill so the clutch doesn't work. Which will strip the gears in the roto start drive and keep on flooding engine when trying to start.
 
Last edited:
Okay so update, while I had the engine off I removed the glow plug and tried to turn it over . Doing so everything seemed to actually spin and make the gurgling noise like normal. I screwed the glow plug back on and the engine went back to doing the same thing just spinning no noise no putter. I repeated the steps of taking glow plug off and again everything sounds normal. What the heck is going on here
 
It's almost like with the glow plug unscrewed everything seems fine but as soon as I screw the glow plug in the piston is no longer cycling
 
Holy poop guys just took a heat gun to it for a min and shazam it works wowwww I was so close to ordering a new engine thanks everyone so much
 
The problem is you engine is getting tooo much fuel. Read the engine instruction manual and set engine back to factory settings. When starting engine only prime 2 -3 times before putting on ignitor then 2 -3 more time until you hear it pop off. then start.
 
Holy poop guys just took a heat gun to it for a min and shazam it works wowwww I was so close to ordering a new engine thanks everyone so much
might have just had a bunch of pinch, so warming it up let it expand, good sign that lots of life left on the engine though. really glad you got it going! need more nitro burning going on in the world!
 

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