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I understand "better" but I don't understand what makes one better or worse?I think these are what you have, give or take the Metal Gears. With that said, if it is right, take the specs and find one similar or better.
The servos are all completely different.. you want a high tourqe high speed for steering and a high tourqe for throotle.. the tourqe is measured with IN/OZ and the speed is with .17sec .15sec .13sec.I didn't know you could rebuild them.
I understand "better" but I don't understand what makes one better or worse?
The difference between throttle servos and steering servos is you need a much higher torque (more powerful) servo to turn your wheels than you need for a throttle/brake. (The throttle servo also usually does braking too.) A throttle servo should have at least 100 oz/in or torque but probably doesn't need more than 150oz/in. That being said it coulod have 500 oz/in and would still work just be a waste since a 500oz/in would be a much better steering servo. imo. A steering servo will have a minimum torque rating youll want for steering depending on the scale and the weight of the kit but there is no real maximum. The higher torque and the faster the better for steering.What is the difference between a throttle servo and a steering servo?
- My throttle servo is a AVOX SC-0352
- My steering servo is a AVOX SC-0254
Quality servo manufacturers will generally sell rebuild kits for their servos incase the gears/bearings get damaged so you can replace them. You wont generally find rebuild kits for cheap ebay/amazon servos.I didn't know you could rebuild them.
Other than torque/speed there are other factors that can be considered but are often less important for example Analog vs Digital, metal gear vs plastic gear, brushed vs brushless motors inside the servos, and cored vs coreless. Torque and speed are the main concerns, plastic/metal gears is probably second followed closely by analog vs digital. I wouldnt worry about brushed/brushless or cored/coreless. Its nice to have a brushless/coreless servo but as long as it has the specs you want these two dont matter for general bashing purposes.I understand "better" but I don't understand what makes one better or worse?
About where is that price break from cheap to good?One thing to note, the "cheap" servos also have a tendency to overshoot and don't center well. This makes them not as precise as a similar spec'd "more expensive" servo.
By overshoot, I mean, you turn your steering wheel full lock really quick, the servo goes to where the radio tells it and beyond a little bit, then goes back a little.
Not centering well means when you turn the wheel, then let go, the servo goes back to home, but a cheap servo tends to either overshoot home or come up short, so your truck doesn't follow a straight line as you would expect.
For bashing, these things don't matter a lot (unless the servo is particularly bad), but for track use, it would make it more frustrating to be competitive.
Personally Id say anything that is not a known good brand is generally considered cheap. Hard to say from a "price" stand point. Some manufacturers are worse than others plus the price point is going to change with scale and specs. etc. In Olds's case though I think cheap is more like technically acceptable vs known proven performer.About where is that price break from cheap to good?
The <$50 25KG/35KG ones on amazon come to mind. Some are hit and miss as to accuracy, durability and longevity. The same can be said for any savox/hitec/JR/futaba servo, but the frequency of failure tends to be much less.About where is that price break from cheap to good?